Center Fire

I am new to hunting and I have never shot a muzzleloader. I am going to shoot a Connecticut valley Arms Hawken rifle. It shoots .50 caliber ammunition. My dad has never shot one either... He got it as a gift and niether of us know how to use it. How much powder should I put into it? What kind of powder do I use? What kind of bullets do I use? Will it take a deer? Will it take an elk? How many yards for a deer? How many yards for an elk? What's a nipple cap? Do I need a nipple cap? Does the rifle have any recoil? Do scopes fit on it? Do I have to buy special muzzleloader scopes, or can I use my rifle scope on it?

Any help on my little dilema ill be greatly appreciated!

cayugad

Your CVA Hawkins has a 1:48 twist most often except some of the older models had a 1:66 twist. The 1:48 twist will shoot roundball and concials very well in most cases.

The max load in your rifle being a .50 caliber is probably around 110 grains. You will never need to get that far in the powder scale. You can shoot any of the powders on the market. I would suggest trying some Pyrodex P (pistol grade) or RS (rifle shotgun). You could also shoot Triple Se7en powder. If you want to be real daring shoot some Goex Black Powder in 3f.

Your rifle will shoot best with a .490 diameter roundball and a .015 pre cut patch at this point. Get the pre lubed patches for starters. You can change some of this later to match your shooting style. Start your load about 70 grains of powder, then a patched roundball. This will take a deer out to 100 yards provided you can place your shot. For elk I would try and get a little closer and perhaps use a different kind of projectile...

When tuning in the roundball shoot from 25 yards a three shot or five if you like, group. Then keep upping the charge of your load by 5 grains until your group starts to fall apart. It will probably come in around 80 -90 grains of FFg powder. Once the group starts to open up or you have about 85 grains of powder under the load and a good group still, then move back to a further distance.

Once back at 100 yards you should still be shooting about a 4" group with the open sights. Some people shoot better some worse, but that is the average for most shooters. That will take a whitetail down easy if you put that roundball in the right place.

For Elk you might want to try some of the different conicals on the market. CVA Buckslayer might be a little light at 300 grains. The T/C maxiball over the maxihunter might be a better choice for elk, I really could not say. Also you might want to pick up some .50 caliber powerbelts and try them. Many times they shoot very good out of the 1:48 twist. If you can get any of the big conicals shooting well with at least 80 grains of powder under them, out to 100 yard, you are ready for elk. Shot placement is critical here. You need to hit some real vital organs there... To work up the load start any of the conicals at 70 grains and just start working them up the same as you did the roundball until the group falls apart.

Get some CCI Magnum #11 caps and always start your shooting on a clean rifle. Swab the barrel with some isopropyl alcohol patches to make sure there is no grease, dirt, lube, oil etc.. Then pop a couple caps through the nipple to make sure your fire channel is clear.... Then start your loads.

If you do not have a manual you can download one for your rifle at the CVA website....

cayugad

[quote]ORIGINAL: Center Fire

A nipple cap I think you mean the percussion cap and there are size #11. As for recoil, yes it will have recoil. You're shooting a rifle big enough to take a deer or elk or bear, so they push but not as bad as you think. My friend's little 12 year old kid shoots his Hawkins all the time with 90 grains of Pyrodex and a roundball. Scopes are kind of hard to put on a sidelock because of the hammer but it can be done. I would suggest professional help for that aspect. Actually I would not put a scope on that rifle. Instead I would learn to shoot it with iron sights. If you want to scope one, get a cheap inline and scope that......

Rebel Hog

Center Fire,

Cayugad gave you very good insrtuctions and run down on ML procedures.

I think you and dad should read all you can on Muzzle Rifle Shooting
and Safety, these are not Toy's. Learn all the parts and how to use them.
You have to know about different Gun Powder's and projectiles. You and
Dad can learn alot on this forum from all the guys on here.
Just ask your Questions any time even if you think they are dumb.
Just always be sure of what you are doing.

GOOD LUCK!

driftrider

If I'm not mistaken, scopes are illegal on muzzleloaders in Colorado, at least during the muzzleloader season. They might be legal during the CF rifle seasons, but I'd check before you hunt with it. Otherwise, on a sidelock style rifle like the Hawken, I'd probably go with an aperature (peep) sight. Much more accurate and easier to use than post and notch style open sights. Just get an aperature that is bit enough to see through in lowlight and you'll be good to go.

Oh, and about powder types...do NOT use any type of smokeless powder in that gun. Use black powder or powders designed to be direct substitutes for black powder only (i.e. Pyrodex, Triple Seven, Black Max, etc...).

Mike

1950KID

Read the manual that came with the rifle. Also, you could write to Thompson/Center, and ask them for a manual. I know you have a CVA, but the T/C manual is a good one to start with. Just tell them you have a Hawken, and you need their book.

Rebel Hog

1950Kid, He is asking Cayugad....What's a nipple? Needs more than a manuel...You think?

cayugad

Center Fire ... keep in mind, depending on the kind of powder you use it will make a difference in the amount of powder you might want to use. When you read the manual or talk to most people they talk in terms of FFg grade powder.

FFg Grade

100 grains of Goex FFg Black Powder = 100 grains of Pyrodex RS = 85 grains of Triple Se7en FFg

Some of the other powders out there are Black Mag3, American Pioneer Powder, Clear Shot (rare), Clean Shot, Pinnacle Replica Black Powder Substitue

When they talk about pellets remember 2 - 50 grain pellets of Triple Se7en are equal in powder to 2 - 50 grain pellets of Pyrodex or AAP. When they talk loose powder to pellets, the 100 grains of Pyrodex = 2 - 50 grain pyrodex pellets or Triple Se7en pellets there fore 85 grains of Triple Se7en loose is equal to 2 - pyrodex pellets or 2 - Triple Se7en pellets.

If you have any load questions the people here are real good about answering them all....

MLKeith

So far you are getting good advice. GET A MUZZLELOADING BOOK AND READ IT COMPLETELY! There are some things that you need to know; like when seating the bullet it is critical that the bullet sets on the powder without a gap between the powder and the base of the bullet. If you do not do this correctly the pressures can be high enough to do damage to the rifle and possibly to you. I would consider 100gr. of regular powder (real black or pyrodex) as the upper limit not 110 grains unless you determine that the rifle was made as a "magnum style". When using the other synthetics like Triple Seven, American Pioneer, or Black Mag'3 they usually are better if used with the fffg granulation which also limits the amount that you can use safely (finer powder has more power for a given volume than the more coarse ffg powder). I would not load anything over 80gr. of the higher power synthetics until you determine that your rifle was made for that heavy load. Also when going to heavier bullets the powder charge should be reduced from what is safe with a lighter bullet. As you can see there is a lot to this sport and it is really interesting and fun but it is very important that you understand just what is safe and what is not. Until you completely understand what you are doing follow the owners manual or another good book to the letter and do not try for maximum loads from the start.

Rebel Hog

Here's a good one.