I have another question about my American Knight .50.....after even one shot when I try to swab the barrel with a jag and patch the rod gets stuck.
I mean even going in 3 inches there is NO pulling it back out i have to dissasemble completly and push it through talk about a pain in the rear.
Can anyone help me out here ,what am i doing wrong? even my .50 brush gets stuck is it not possible to swab this gun between shots???HELP[:@][:@][:@][:@]

Man you 've got all kind of problems.

Are you using the correct size patch for .50 cal. Try a smaller patch. You should not have to diassemble gun! Buy a patch puller. Screws into rod,has 2 little metal prongs that catch the patch and pull it out. I use it often to clean in the field. You better buy a bullet puller while your at it.

Now get that gun shootin and advise us.

Yep, ramrods do that in muzzleloading. Very short very fast short strokes when swabbing out the bore. And use some sort of fluid like No. 13 TC cleaner. It just needs broke in a tad I figure. Also, AJ is right about the patches. Had simular issues with cheap Bass Pro patches. I started buying T/C patches and cut the Bass Pro in half.

Also, do not swab out the barrel with the brush with the breech plug in. You don't want the pull the brush out of the barrel without pushing all the way thru the barrel. The brissles bind up and can pit the bore.

Wet the patch real good with windex,spit, or whatever and try not to center the patch exactly over the hole. I have noticed that moving it off center will make it fit looser in the bore. If it starts to bind at all, stop and pull it back out, don't keep going or it will get stuck.

When I first started inline shooting I would use smaller spit patchs to avoid the stuck rod syndrome. The other advice of short strokes and if you feel it bind bring back is right on. It just takes some time and once you get it unless you leave it cool or shoot a few to many through it will become a rarity.

Your patch sticking is caused by a number of reasons. First lets make sure we are on the same track. You are using a jag head to work the patch I am sure. Some people use a patch worm, I do not.

Make sure the patch is not too large or too thick. I buy these cheap pre-cut patches at Wal Mart (since I ran out of old socks). Sometimes if the patch is too long cut it in half. A 2-2.5" circle or square is all you need.

I make my swab solution. I use 50/50 isopropyl alcohol and car windshield washer fluid. I soak the patch good at first then ring it out a little. Set it over the muzzle and then push the jag into it instead of wrapping it around the jag head.

Start at the top and work the damp/soaked patch SLOW up and down the barrel about three inches at a time. Then keep increasing the amount you travel in the barrel in three inch amounts, working all the way down to the breech with the first patch.

Since it sounds like your bore is tight, I would then run a second damp patch all the way down now and back up. This is when you need to run a bone dry patch to the bottom of the breech and back up. It does not hurt to run the three inchs at a time rule here. If it feels like it is getting stuck do not go further. Pull it out.

Last is get a T-handle for the ramrod. The extra power a T-handle gives you is amazing. If you do get stuck, sit in a chair, put the T-between your feet with your knees bent, hold on to the rifle then push with your legs straight away from the rifle and the ramrod and patch will come out.....

Your second shot should load easier then the first shot because sometimes that slight fowling left in the barrel acts as a slide of types and makes it go down better. That does not mean you should not swab between every shot on the range.

For hunting, experiment. Find a sabot or conical that will load fast and easy for the second shot without swabbing, should you wound an animal and it is trying to get back up and you need a fast second shot. A powerbelt or maxiball or maxi hunter works here. So do minnie balls. They are a slip fit conical..

If you shot and that animal takes off out of sight, the second shot speed is not important. Take your time. I carry a small spray bottle that held eye glass cleaner with my swab solutuion and some patches, in my possible bag. I can then swab the barrel, calm down, load my second shot carefully and correctly, and give the animal I wounded a chance to lay down and expire.

excellent advice guys thanks a lot.
ill give theses a try and hope it works i do center the patch and push it in ill try offseting it and see i also tried the knight pre soaked patches but they stick as well also im using the pre cut patches arount 2" i think

I had the same problem with my Knight Wolverine II when I first took it to the range. Very frustrating! First ML & thought there was something wrong with it, until I saw a guy with a Remington with the same problem.
I use the Knight pre-soaked patches between each shot on the range, followed by two dry patches, & let the gun stand for about 5 minutes. You guys are right on about the short strokes, & the T handle.
I found that sabots were so hard to load, as well, so tried the Powerbelt bullets (.295 shoot best in mine, euro tip or hollow point doesn't seem to matter.) & loved them. I can shoot 3 or 4 between swabbing if I want to, where as the sabots are so tight I couldn't.
Just a note: I don't use any bore butter or such stuff. Knight recommends against it. When I clean the bore after shooting, I simply use the pre-soaked patches, then oil it like all my guns. 3 years & no rust as of yet.

I bought one of the early .50cal MK85's years and years ago, later converted it to 209 primers...gradually transitioned away from it to sidelock percussions, then flintlocks...but all I've ever used in all of them for almost 15 years is Natural Lube 1000...outstanding lube...this weekend I just pulled the MK85 from it's case after laying there untouched for four years and the bore is still like a mirror

Another small tip is to switch jags. The T/C jags are a few thousanths under what your Knight jag is. The reason is that Knight bores are slightly larger than T/C bores (generally speaking). Just try switching jags. I only use my knight jags for final cleaning.