Black powder question
 

Hi everyone,

I have a question. First, you need to know that I am gaining interest in traditional muzzleloaders, like flintlocks. I MIGHT try to use them for hunting, but I primarily want to use them for recreational target shooting.

Now, the question, I was browsing muzzleloaders on the internet, and I came across these. They caught my eye because I like to build stuff:

https://muzzle-loaders.com/collectio...-caliber-kr510

https://muzzle-loaders.com/collectio...-kit-flintlock

What do you guys think of these? Are they worth trying?

Jared

Hi Jared.

First of all, a warning. The muzzleloader bug is infectious. When a guy gets his first muzzleloader he runs the risk of becoming addicted. If that happens you will have an overwhelming need to acquire additional guns, equipment and shooting supplies. So getting the first one is not a decision to be taken lightly.

As for the two kits linked in your post, I suggest you eliminate the blunderbuss from consideration at this time. While it may be fun to shoot a few times, and will certainly make noise and smoke and possibly even hit something now and then, it's primarily a novelty gun. it's not a gun a guy would use often. And it certainly is not well suited to target shooting.

The Traditions Kentucky rifle is a pretty good deal and not a bad gun for plinking, target shooting or hunting. Putting that kit together would be interesting and fun for a guy who likes to build stuff. And you should end up with a functional gun that's not only fun to shoot, but much more practical than a blunderbuss.

Now there's the question of whether one's first traditional muzzle loader should be flint or percussion. Flintlocks can be finicky and have a greater learning curve than caplocks. You might consider the following kit.
TRADITIONS STL HAWKEN RIFLE KIT .50 CAL/ RAW HARDWOOD - Graf & Sons (grafs.com)

I generally recommend caplocks for a new muzzleloader shooter, especially when I don't personally know the individual's temperament or background. Other shooters may disagree with me on that point. There's nothing wrong with going with a flintlock as an introductory gun - it's a personal choice. But there's a greater chance of disappointment/frustration with the flinter.

First, thank you for the warning. I admit it, muzzleloading is addicting. However, I’m working hard to make sure that addiction does not get out of control. I told myself that I would have an in line and a traditional, but nothing more. Two guns is enough.

Second, I appreciate you telling me about the blunderbuss. I’ll remove that from my list.

Finally, I was actually still debating whether I should get a cap lock or flintlock. To be honest, I want something that’s close to being historically accurate. I don’t know which one fits that bill. I figured it was the flintlock, but I could be wrong.

Thanks for all the input.

It depends on how far back you want to go as far as being traditional. The flintlock was invented sometime in the 1500s and the percussion cap rifles were introduced around 1805. One other thing to think about is your state's hunting laws. For instance in PA the late muzzleloader season is flintlock only. You can only use your percussion during the early muzzleloader season or during the regular rifle season. Also don't get hung up on getting a .50 cal. A .45 caliber is fine for deer and a bit cheaper to shoot.

Thanks. I actually just received it in the mail. I bit the bullet (pun intended) and decided to try it out. I got the percussion cap and not the flint lock.

In my state, there are muzzleloading regulations. However, this meets them.

I didn’t exactly want to use it for hunting, unless it’s extremely accurate. I mainly got it for recreational and target shooting.

Now, I need to pick up the rest of the stuff to put it together, like the wood stains.

Take your time with your build and you'll get a more harmonious outcome! What caliber did you buy? Let us know if you have any questions about building, loading and shooting your rifle.
Get yourself a set of wood carving tools (likely Harbor Freight has them) as you will probably have some fine inletting to do. Don't use a dremel tool it removes wood too fast. You can always take more out but you can't put it back in- you can only fill in your mistake.

https://muzzle-loaders.com/products/...ucky-rifle-kit

Here is the one I got, as well as my progress so far. I was able to do the dry fitting, and with some adjustments to the wood, I got everything to fit.

I need to take it apart and stain the wood and barrel now.

Jared

Looks like a fun process Jared. After some practice once you get it shooting good don't be afraid to try it in the woods.


Lots of people hunt with similar set ups every year.

-Jake

Are you going to brown the barrel or blue it?

i thought you could only brown that style 🤣🤣

I haven’t decided yet. I think I’m gonna go with what’s most historically accurate. Problem is, I don’t know what that is specifically. I’ll have to do research and figure it out.

I dont know, What do you guys think? Should I stain the barrel? It looks pretty good already after staining the stock and other wood parts.

What do you guys think?

Jared

i would brown it , but that is just me.

Its done. I got the look I wanted to get, and it functions great.

All I need now is the #11 percussion caps. I got everything else.

Ill get a video when I first shoot it.

Jared

Probably a more authentic look would be to brown the barrel. Some guys don't do anything and "leave it in the white". But be forewarned it will rust very easily with out any oil.

Thanks for the forewarning. To be honest, I already browned it. I actually went out shooting it today for the first time. I didn’t get a video, and I have a good reason.

First, you need to know that I replaced the #11 nipple with a musket nipple. That way I could use the musket caps I already have.

Now the interesting issue, it kept misfiring. I had to remove 5 balls because it kept misfiring. I thought there was an obstruction in the nipple or something. After through examination, I discovered no obstruction. I then decided to try a different type of powder. Instead of the triple seven FFG Pyrodex powder I normally use, I used RS FFG Pyrodex powder a friend gave me. It started firing perfectly. No problems.

I can only conclude that it was the triple seven powder that was the problem. I’m still scratching my head about it, though, because that powder works fine on my in-line muzzleloader.

Regardless of the issues source, at least it’s working now, and at least I now know how to use a ball remover!

Jared

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/p...t-yourself-kit

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...STOCK-16-FLINT

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/...+BY+INVESTARMS