I’m shooting NoExcuse 503s / T7 with good results out of a MK and a Disc Extreme. Any reason to add a wad? If so which one would your suggest?

thanks

It is my opinion that they are VERY important, And like Sabotloader said, Triple Seven is a HOT, energetic Powder. Keep in mind that the Bullet Base is what actually steers the Bullet, Protect that Bullet base at ALL Costs. You might not notice it so much at 100 yards? But as you get farther out, Bad/Damaged Bullet bases will start to Show. And the other issue is Barrel Leading, The ONLY time i have ever had/seen Barrel Leading in ANY of my Rifles is when I decided to Shoot without an Over Powder Wad. Not only does the Over Powder Wad Protect the Base of the Bullet, They also help in Creating a SOLID Gas Seal Behind it, Before the Bullet has time to “Bump up” upon firing there is a certain amount of Gasses/Flame that escapes around the Sides of the Bullet Through the Grooves, This is a BIG factor in Barrel a Leading, along with the Base being Burned

here is a recovered BPCR Bullet that was shot as experiment with No Wad Behind it, NASTY looking Base from being BURNED!


Protect your Bullet Bases! You want them “SHARP” and keep them that way for Flight, There is a Reason our World Champion Shooters use, and Swear By them. I make, and use Several Different Types of Wads, But my all time favorite for Grease Groove bullets is 1/8” Wool Felt, i buy Ox-Yoke Brand, and i go oversize, for a .45 Cal i use .50 Wool Wads, for .50 i use .54 Wool Wads, and .54 i use .58 Wool Wads. I “Scrunch” them up to make sure i get them Started straight in the Bore, i push the Wad down to the Powder by itself, then send the Bullet. Just my Method, my results tell me to keep doing what i am doing! Nothing wrong with the Hard Card Type Wads either, But i have had them Act up, They are VERY Hit & Miss with me. I have found them to Stick to the Bullet Base and Ride them, Sometimes nearly to a 60 Yard Target! (What steers the bullet again? The Bullet Base! We don’t want a Wad Stuck to the Base impeding Flight!!) I have had hit & Miss results with the Nitro Cards, and .060 Vege Fibre Hard Card Wads, On the other Hand 1/8” Wool Felt has Worked FLAWLESSLY for me EVERYTIME, From Grease Groove to Paper Patch Bullets they work equally Well, i can 100% Depend on 1/8” Wool felt to Release from the Bullet Base upon Exiting the Bore, unlike the Hard Card Wads that i find Scattered anywhere from 15 yards from the Muzzle, all the way out to 60 Yards. On the other hand I find the 1/8” Wool Wads ALL together about 15 Yards or So from the Muzzle, They are PREDICTABLE for me, and i get STELLAR Accuracy with them.

a Short Video i did on No OP Wad and Barrel Leading

Use a Slightly wore Bore Brush Wrapped with Copper Chore Boy, Make sure it’s the real Copper Stuff. Also make sure you use a Good Quality Bore Brush for Muzzleloaders that is Looped through and will NOT pull apart

Here is a GOOD loop through Brush, these Will NOT pull apart


Here is a Junk Press fitted Brush, These can, and Will pull apart, it’s happened to MANY people including myself, in a Sidelock Muzzleloader this is a Booger! If it ever happens, You can use a Copper tube that just fits inside the bore, slide it down and push it over the Brush, then extract. The best Method is to use a Good Loop Through Muzzleloader Brush to begin with


Here is Copper Chore Boy, if you are unsure if it is the real stuff? Use a magnet to test it, You want the Genuine Copper Stuff, The others can/will Scratch, and Damage the Bore


Wrap the Chore Boy Around a Brush, a Slightly Worn Brush is best. Clean you barrel good, and Work this Chore Boy Brush back n forth, 50 Strokes or So, Follow up with a Nice tight patched Jag with a piece of 0000 Steel wool over the Patch, Get this TIGHT, 15-20 Strokes. You will be Unleaded at this point