Yep! I agree

zmason1002

This is a the way I sight in...


I have for years now especially with a ML used a system called Point Blank Range (PBR). For a muzzleloader I use a 6" PBR, meaning through a given range the bullet will never be more than 3" high or 3" low while sighting dead on or Point of Aim (POA).

Point-blank range is the distance between a weapon and a target of a given size its projectile is expected to strike without adjusting the weapon's elevation. Point-blank range will vary by a weapon's external ballistics characteristics and target chosen. A weapon with a flatter trajectory will permit a longer maximum point-blank range for a given target size, while a larger target will allow a longer point-blank range for a given weapon.

Here is a calculator I just found on the net.. and I am sure there are others

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php

In my case that means most of rifle will be about 3" high @ 100 and 3" low @ 175 to 90 depending on weight of bullet and powder charge or velocity. This little thing allows me to shoot 0 to 200 without much thought or scope adjusting.

This is a typical ballistic sheet on one of my loads with the PBR built in..



The chart shows my actual zero range is 160 yards and I can shoot to 196 yards and be 3" LOW. You can also the expected Point of Impact -POI at other ranges on the sheet

Hope this makes some sense...

How's that work if you're only 3" high at 100, but also 4" left?

MPBR only works for elevation Barnes...You know that!!! Windage is still up to the shooters practice and ability to read the wind.

Yes I know that. Others may not.
But a clean rifle can throw the first bullet in any direction, including left/right, with zero wind. If vertical was the only issue with a clean vs fouled barrel, life would be easy for many of us.

I am assuming that you are smart enough to sight in 0 for windage. If you are talking about correction for wind velocity to the target that is something time and practice will help you compute. And when you get good at it you can dial it in for that shot.


And I must admit I am not the long range shooter you are - I work with a max range of 200-250 yards. In that distance it is not real difficult to make an informed decision.

Personally I do not have that much difference in clean bore fouled bore in the rifles I shoot... but, then to make things even more confusing I never shoot a clean barrel while hunting. I shoot what I refer to as a "semi clean" barrel. That is only one thing that I do contrary to normal opinion.

I don't either. That is why I sight in with a clean bore. Should a second shot (finishing shot) be necessary I am likely going to be close enough that it won't make any difference.
But unless the animal drops right there and a tracking job is necessary the animal has normally expired before I find it.

I understand. Some shooters just don't have such good luck with a clean vs fouled/semi-fouled barrel. Of all the different rifles I've owned, if my first shot was say between 25 and 100yds, I wouldn't have worried about 1st vs 2nd shots. I'm sure you've seen my Pro Hunter target, shot specifically to show clean vs fouled. That would have been fine for me for 100yd or less shots, because I knew exactly what it did. However for a 200+ shot, I had to foul the barrel. Yes, I'll admit, I have high expectations...

Note: Many times I've harvested multiple animals at a single setting and at range. It was never a "finishing shot" I was worried about.

I'm guessing what you call "semi clean" is the same as me, you fire off a couple of primers on a clean barrel. I've tried my TC on a spotless cold barrel. If you remember a while back I did a cold clean barrel grouping test. Had a little over an inch 5 round group at 150 yards cleaning the barrel thoroughly and cooling it then popping 2 primers, load and shoot. I also tried it on JUST the clean barrel. Groups opened up considerably and were inconsistent in elevation but I didn't experience windage issues. Only elevation.