sabotloader

We have decided since all of our regular big game hunting seasons are now closed and the weather is so fine in this area, it is like spring here, my hunting partner and I would work on hunting some wolves. And coyotes are also fare game.

Here in Idaho, we can purchase wolf tags for the open season that exits now. I have two rifles that I would like to use for the project. The first one is a Knight 45 cal. Super DISC and centerfire varmiter rifle a Sako AI/L461 Varmit rifle shooting a .222 Remington cartridge.

I took both rifles to the farm this morning to check POI on both. I set up a target board @ 100 yards and verified POI on the board. I also set up a group of 5 clay birds out in the field. They were set @ 100 yards from the bench.

It really did not take long to confirm and adjust both rifles to the POI that I was after with each rifle. As soon as I had verification on paper – it was fun time and on to the clay birds. I used the Sako for the first two shots that was fairly easy since the POI @ 100 yards is about 1 1/2" high. So it was pretty much put the cross hairs on the bottom of the bird and take the shot.

The remaining three pigeons I wanted to use the Super DISC. From the target you can see the ML was about 2” high @ 100. So basically I repeated the same aiming routine and had the same results…

Here is a couple of pictures of the trip





From a hundred yards sight pictures could change quickly. My next trip to the farm with the rifles I will extend the range to 175, 200 and 250 yards and work on those distances. With the Sako those ranges are not very difficult with the Super DISC – I will end up shooting for effect using the Ballistic reticule in the scope. I already know that I have to use the second bar in the reticule and I am unsure of where I will be with the 250 yard bird and the ML.

The scope on both rifles is a Bushnell 3x9x40 Elite with a DOA ballistic Reticule



This is the Ballistic print for the Super DISC



The Sako certainly presents the best bet for a really long range shot. I have it sighted for approximately 1 1/2" high @ 100 - so that will make it be approximately 3" down at 250 yards. Even them it is only down about 8" @ 300.

This is a copy of the ballistic sheet...



I really want to use the Super DISC, but I am thinking I will have to make that decision depending on the terrain that we might hunt....

inghamtr

That's a nice 2 shot group with the 45..How did you prep the rifle before shooting?I have the knight disc extreme in 45,,it about drove me crazy finding a load that would group in it.

sabotloader

I use Montana X-Treme Bore Conditioner in the bore and after it sits a bit most of the liquid portion of it evaporates... So there really is not much to patch out before shooting so I skip that step... Then I will shoot 2-3 primers through the bore and then dry patch that load up and take the first shot...

I would say that is kinda odd because I have not found much that either my 45's will not shoot. Of course the Super DISC with a 1-20 twist will shoot the longer bullets better the 1-30 when you are using bullets close to an 1" long.

BUT, depending on how old your 45 might be there really could be a stock to barrel problem... In the months and days when Knight was going under they tried really hard to assemble everything and get them out the door - so the stock to barreled action fit was not always the best. After working on several different Extremes I found out that the barrel touch touching the barrel channel in unequal spots raised havoc with accuracy...

I wrote this a few years back to explain it...


Checking the Fit of Knight stock


Rob, relieving the stickiness of that should be a really easy fix....

I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy...

Quote:
Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there.

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

mike

inghamtr

Probably my fault ,,I started out shooting it with 3 pellets and and different bullets and it just wouldn't group the way I wanted..I went to 120 grains of triple 7 3f a crush ribbed blue sabot from harvester and a 40 cal.200 grain bullet I got from them and it turned into a tack driver.I have never tried another combo after that.I have taken the barrel out of the stock and shot it in a long range hunter stock and it grouped fine in that stock too.

inghamtr

Sabotloader,,in your opinion do you think the dyna-tek bore coat kit ,is worth getting and treating a barrel with??I don't have any knight muzzleloaders that's been treated with it..I haven't bought a new inline in a few years,and if I can sell off 10 or so muzzleloaders,,I was thinking that knight ultra-lite muzzleloader would sure be nice after a hard days hunt.

Grouse45

I'm getting really pissed off at hunters videoing wolf and coyotes killing big game. I myself am going coyote hunting tomorrow afternoon. As much as I love using a muzzleloaders I'm not using them for coyotes. Multiple coyotes could come in and I will have my 223 clip full of shells. I believe coyotes and wolf are becoming a serious problem and we hunters need to take care of it. Just my take on it and good luck sabotloader

Grouse45

Im gonna try out the new 55grn 223 chaos ammo by Lehigh Defense.

http://www.lehighdefense.com/shop/am...ntrolled-chaos

sabotloader

Personally I really like the bore coat. I ordered a kit and treated 2 blued ML and one stainless with it. Really just testing it out.

Of course the ne Knights come with it applied - I am not sure that I see a ton of difference with or without but the extra protection can not be all bad...

The Ulite is an awesome rifle!

sabotloader

Never really thought about that angle... that is definitely a consideration... When my friend shot his wolf a couple years back there were 3 in the group but he only had one tag.

sabotloader

Wish they made that in deuces (222) and I do not have my 22-250 any longer gave it to a friend...