Almost finished pestering just a couple more Questions!
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Australia
Posts: 144
Almost finished pestering just a couple more Questions!
So I've found out not that Sabot's in centrefires here are no go but in Muzzleloaders we're fine to use them (go figure).
So If I go Barnes TMZ 295gn would I be able to do a follow up shot if required or because it's a sabot would it require extensive cleaning between every shot?
And what are the weathershield barrels like on TC rifles? are the blued and stainless versions both good for being rust proof or is the stainless style better?
So If I go Barnes TMZ 295gn would I be able to do a follow up shot if required or because it's a sabot would it require extensive cleaning between every shot?
And what are the weathershield barrels like on TC rifles? are the blued and stainless versions both good for being rust proof or is the stainless style better?
#2
So I've found out not that Sabot's in centrefires here are no go but in Muzzleloaders we're fine to use them (go figure).
So If I go Barnes TMZ 295gn would I be able to do a follow up shot if required or because it's a sabot would it require extensive cleaning between every shot?
And what are the weathershield barrels like on TC rifles? are the blued and stainless versions both good for being rust proof or is the stainless style better?
So If I go Barnes TMZ 295gn would I be able to do a follow up shot if required or because it's a sabot would it require extensive cleaning between every shot?
And what are the weathershield barrels like on TC rifles? are the blued and stainless versions both good for being rust proof or is the stainless style better?
#3
Typical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 921
Try it out on the range first and see what you have to deal with.
#4
The weathershield barrel on my son's Triumph (silver color) is holding up very well, no chipping, no rust, the rifle is going on 4 yrs old. My younger son's TC impact has the same weathershield barrel (just a tad darker in color) is also holding up well but that gun is only a year old but I foresee it lasting for the life of the rifle. I have seen some TC muzzleloaders with just the blued barrels and they did have a very slight rust color on them, they were display models on the shelf and I doubt they were ever wiped down at the end of the day. I have read a few reports of some being disappointed with the quality of bluing on some TC muzzleloaders so thats why I always went with the weatheshield.
I also use TMZs, both 250 and 295. They fit tight but thats the way I like them. I use BH209 so reloading is not a problem but it could be using T7. The TEZs are basically the same bullet minus the boattail and have an easier loading sabot, that may be an option for you on the second shot.
I also use TMZs, both 250 and 295. They fit tight but thats the way I like them. I use BH209 so reloading is not a problem but it could be using T7. The TEZs are basically the same bullet minus the boattail and have an easier loading sabot, that may be an option for you on the second shot.
#5
Probably due to a tighter fit from sabots more than a plastic buildup. Conicals usually fits looser.
You probably wouldn't have the problem with sabots on the second shot if you used BH 209, but do with T7. That tells me it's the T7 more than the sabot.
#6
Spike
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 67
I have used sabots (T/C Shockwaves) all along but have used 777, Pyrodex, and also SHockey's Gold. I am now using BH209. With the first 3 powders I could get 2, maybe 3 shots before I had to clean because I could not get a bullet down the tube. With BH209, I have shot 15 bullets and was still able to get them down the tube with minimal effort. It was the powder residue after burning that obstructed the barrel. With BH209 there is very little residue which allows you to go longer between scrubbing the barrel if you need to. I have not had any problem with plastic residue in the barrel. I use a bronze brush with some solvent to clean and finish with an alcohol swab to make sure there are no contaminants left in the barrel to foul the next shot.
#7
I have used sabots (T/C Shockwaves) all along but have used 777, Pyrodex, and also SHockey's Gold. I am now using BH209. With the first 3 powders I could get 2, maybe 3 shots before I had to clean because I could not get a bullet down the tube. With BH209, I have shot 15 bullets and was still able to get them down the tube with minimal effort. It was the powder residue after burning that obstructed the barrel. With BH209 there is very little residue which allows you to go longer between scrubbing the barrel if you need to. I have not had any problem with plastic residue in the barrel. I use a bronze brush with some solvent to clean and finish with an alcohol swab to make sure there are no contaminants left in the barrel to foul the next shot.
I keep a patch and jag with me when I hunt, just in case. Never had to use it in the field, but a spit patch will knock out 95% of the fouling in a few strokes. I do it all the time on range sessions.
My personal opinion on blued or stainless....go stainless. IMO, its just so much more resistant to fouling and weather, etc. I'm a Knight fan...their stainless is top notch.
#8
The op of this thread was speaking to sabot build up.
#10
As far as repeat loads with Pyrodex and other subs.
It does depend on your load and how tight it is.
I laugh when I hear about these guys that insist that they need thier load to be beaten in with a hammer to make thier load shoot. That is nonsense even for the smokless guys. All you are doing is damaging a perfectly good projectile.
Tight is good but there comes a point where "tight is not right". I like a snug fit. One that seats firmly with minimal effort.
With that said the loads I usually worked up in the past with subs Like Pyrodex or 777 could usually go up to 4 loads without any spit patch or swabbing. It was usually getting tight by the 4th shot needing some assistance moreso getting the 4th one down. By the 5th shot I was either swabbing or done for the day.
It does depend on your load and how tight it is.
I laugh when I hear about these guys that insist that they need thier load to be beaten in with a hammer to make thier load shoot. That is nonsense even for the smokless guys. All you are doing is damaging a perfectly good projectile.
Tight is good but there comes a point where "tight is not right". I like a snug fit. One that seats firmly with minimal effort.
With that said the loads I usually worked up in the past with subs Like Pyrodex or 777 could usually go up to 4 loads without any spit patch or swabbing. It was usually getting tight by the 4th shot needing some assistance moreso getting the 4th one down. By the 5th shot I was either swabbing or done for the day.