Blackhorn 209 in the CVA Kodiak Mag
09-09-2013 | 05:17 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Fork Horn
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
From: Dark Side of the Moon
Blackhorn 209 in the CVA Kodiak Mag
Get a cup of coffee or cold beer (maybe 2-3). I want to be thorough in my experiences, but after proof reading, I am long winded.
I may not be classified as a muzzleloader compared to the other members here. I sight in my in-line rifles, clean and oil them immediately after use, then clean them every quarter to make sure they stay clean and in pristine condition. I want accuracy and reliability on shot #1. I do not shoot for groups and rarely put in much range work. Actually, I have fired more shots with my two muzzleloaders at deer then I ever have at the range. That being said, I still want repeatable accuracy and reliability, regardless of cost, cleaning or time. My goal is to consistently be within a clay pigeon at 100 - 150 yards. I really do not want to have a hang-fire or miss fire, as this makes for an unreliable gun. I do not want to be sitting in the blind on the few occasions I get to hunt, wondering if the gun is going to go off.
Previous loads:
CVA .50 Kodiak Mag: 2 777 pellets, 245gr PowerBelt Aerotip & 777 primers.
TC Triumph: 2 777 pellets, 250gr Shockwave non-bonded (yellow tip), factory supplied black sabot & 777 primers.
I recently received my CVA Kodiak Mag back from CVA. It had been going “click” with only the primer dented and not firing on a consistent basis. Since I had to send it into CVA and pull the scope, I had to start from scratch and get on target with a new load. The crud ring I experienced in the Kodiak with the above mentioned load, stopped me from seating a second projectile to the same depth without brass cleaning jig and wet & dry patches. I would like to have the ability to seat a second load. I have heard the stories about BH 209, so I thought I would give it a try in the CVA Kodiak Mag. If it did not fire reliably, I would just use it in the TC Triumph. I want to see the difference between the powders, so I elected to stay with 250gr non-bonded (yellow tip) Shockwave with the factory supplied black sabot as that what was most accurate in my Triumph and wanted to try the Shockwave in the Kodiak as well. I would like to work up loads for a Barnes 250gr TMZ, but I thought I better change one thing at a time to compare the results of the powder change first.
Gun Prep:
I have read the reviews about using a hand turned drill but for the flash channel on the breechplugs. I did this prior to loading the guns and used an air compressor to blow out the residue. I was surprised how much buildup was there and will add this step to my normal cleaning routine regardless of what powder I shoot. I also am now using a guitar string to clean the flash hole of the breech plugs.
First, swab the barrels with dry patches, fire 3 777 primers (I have a glut of them, so I will use them for the fouling shots) and run another dry patch down the barrel to lightly “foul” the barrel and clean out the oils. I know many use a 30grain squib load, but if the gun remains loaded for a couple days, I worry about corrosion in the barrel, so I will stick with just the primers for now. I then double checked the breechplugs with the drill bit. Again, consistency equals accuracy.
Load:
I must say when I opened the can of BH 209, I was surprised. There was no plastic seal over the top of the can and cap, or white sealed paper inside the cap that had to be removed before getting to the powder. I know powder containers are not packed full, but the container was only filled to the level of the outside top label. My initial thought was this bottle had been already used, but it was not going to stop me from shooting today. Just wondered if anyone else had this experience?
In each gun I loaded, 100 grains of BH 209 by volume (70.0 grains by weight as I was weighing my charges), 250 grain Shockwave non-bonded (yellow-tip) with the factory supplied black sabot and Federal 209A primers.
Routine:
Shots were taken at 100 yards via Range finder. I would shoot the Kodiak walk down range to see where the shot hit, then walk back, measure the next charge, make scope adjustments, load and then fire again. Hopefully, this allowed for ample time to let the barrels cool.
Shots / observations:
Smoke is not as white as the 777 pellets and I believe there is less of it. I could continuously see the target through the scope after the gun went off. Recoil was about the same to a touch heavier. I was making scope adjustments after the shots, so I was not look to shoot a group. However, after 5 shots, I thought the scope should be just about perfect. Shot was 1” left of the bullseye. Loaded, fired and dead center bullseye. I am just resting the gun on my 4 wheeler seat, so variations could be me holding the gun steady. I called it quits at this point. 7 shots without swabbing the barrel or cleaning the breechplug! The gun never misfired or hang-fired. After I marked the ramrod on the first load, each subsequent load was able to be seeded to the same depth and with the same pressure without swabbing the barrel! One dry patch and the barrel was so clean, I do not think I needed to wipe down the Hoppes 9. However, I still did use the Hoppes and oil the gun.
Overall, I am impressed with this powder and combination. It cured my crud ring problem and I had no ignition issues. I am going to test it in the Triumph this weekend and might pull the Kodiak back out to see what type of group it shoots.
I may not be classified as a muzzleloader compared to the other members here. I sight in my in-line rifles, clean and oil them immediately after use, then clean them every quarter to make sure they stay clean and in pristine condition. I want accuracy and reliability on shot #1. I do not shoot for groups and rarely put in much range work. Actually, I have fired more shots with my two muzzleloaders at deer then I ever have at the range. That being said, I still want repeatable accuracy and reliability, regardless of cost, cleaning or time. My goal is to consistently be within a clay pigeon at 100 - 150 yards. I really do not want to have a hang-fire or miss fire, as this makes for an unreliable gun. I do not want to be sitting in the blind on the few occasions I get to hunt, wondering if the gun is going to go off.
Previous loads:
CVA .50 Kodiak Mag: 2 777 pellets, 245gr PowerBelt Aerotip & 777 primers.
TC Triumph: 2 777 pellets, 250gr Shockwave non-bonded (yellow tip), factory supplied black sabot & 777 primers.
I recently received my CVA Kodiak Mag back from CVA. It had been going “click” with only the primer dented and not firing on a consistent basis. Since I had to send it into CVA and pull the scope, I had to start from scratch and get on target with a new load. The crud ring I experienced in the Kodiak with the above mentioned load, stopped me from seating a second projectile to the same depth without brass cleaning jig and wet & dry patches. I would like to have the ability to seat a second load. I have heard the stories about BH 209, so I thought I would give it a try in the CVA Kodiak Mag. If it did not fire reliably, I would just use it in the TC Triumph. I want to see the difference between the powders, so I elected to stay with 250gr non-bonded (yellow tip) Shockwave with the factory supplied black sabot as that what was most accurate in my Triumph and wanted to try the Shockwave in the Kodiak as well. I would like to work up loads for a Barnes 250gr TMZ, but I thought I better change one thing at a time to compare the results of the powder change first.
Gun Prep:
I have read the reviews about using a hand turned drill but for the flash channel on the breechplugs. I did this prior to loading the guns and used an air compressor to blow out the residue. I was surprised how much buildup was there and will add this step to my normal cleaning routine regardless of what powder I shoot. I also am now using a guitar string to clean the flash hole of the breech plugs.
First, swab the barrels with dry patches, fire 3 777 primers (I have a glut of them, so I will use them for the fouling shots) and run another dry patch down the barrel to lightly “foul” the barrel and clean out the oils. I know many use a 30grain squib load, but if the gun remains loaded for a couple days, I worry about corrosion in the barrel, so I will stick with just the primers for now. I then double checked the breechplugs with the drill bit. Again, consistency equals accuracy.
Load:
I must say when I opened the can of BH 209, I was surprised. There was no plastic seal over the top of the can and cap, or white sealed paper inside the cap that had to be removed before getting to the powder. I know powder containers are not packed full, but the container was only filled to the level of the outside top label. My initial thought was this bottle had been already used, but it was not going to stop me from shooting today. Just wondered if anyone else had this experience?
In each gun I loaded, 100 grains of BH 209 by volume (70.0 grains by weight as I was weighing my charges), 250 grain Shockwave non-bonded (yellow-tip) with the factory supplied black sabot and Federal 209A primers.
Routine:
Shots were taken at 100 yards via Range finder. I would shoot the Kodiak walk down range to see where the shot hit, then walk back, measure the next charge, make scope adjustments, load and then fire again. Hopefully, this allowed for ample time to let the barrels cool.
Shots / observations:
Smoke is not as white as the 777 pellets and I believe there is less of it. I could continuously see the target through the scope after the gun went off. Recoil was about the same to a touch heavier. I was making scope adjustments after the shots, so I was not look to shoot a group. However, after 5 shots, I thought the scope should be just about perfect. Shot was 1” left of the bullseye. Loaded, fired and dead center bullseye. I am just resting the gun on my 4 wheeler seat, so variations could be me holding the gun steady. I called it quits at this point. 7 shots without swabbing the barrel or cleaning the breechplug! The gun never misfired or hang-fired. After I marked the ramrod on the first load, each subsequent load was able to be seeded to the same depth and with the same pressure without swabbing the barrel! One dry patch and the barrel was so clean, I do not think I needed to wipe down the Hoppes 9. However, I still did use the Hoppes and oil the gun.
Overall, I am impressed with this powder and combination. It cured my crud ring problem and I had no ignition issues. I am going to test it in the Triumph this weekend and might pull the Kodiak back out to see what type of group it shoots.
09-09-2013 | 05:35 AM
#2
Spike
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Get a cup of coffee or cold beer (maybe 2-3). I want to be thorough in my experiences, but after proof reading, I am long winded.
I may not be classified as a muzzleloader compared to the other members here. I sight in my in-line rifles, clean and oil them immediately after use, then clean them every quarter to make sure they stay clean and in pristine condition. I want accuracy and reliability on shot #1. I do not shoot for groups and rarely put in much range work. Actually, I have fired more shots with my two muzzleloaders at deer then I ever have at the range. That being said, I still want repeatable accuracy and reliability, regardless of cost, cleaning or time. My goal is to consistently be within a clay pigeon at 100 - 150 yards. I really do not want to have a hang-fire or miss fire, as this makes for an unreliable gun. I do not want to be sitting in the blind on the few occasions I get to hunt, wondering if the gun is going to go off.
Previous loads:
CVA .50 Kodiak Mag: 2 777 pellets, 245gr PowerBelt Aerotip & 777 primers.
TC Triumph: 2 777 pellets, 250gr Shockwave non-bonded (yellow tip), factory supplied black sabot & 777 primers.
I recently received my CVA Kodiak Mag back from CVA. It had been going “click” with only the primer dented and not firing on a consistent basis. Since I had to send it into CVA and pull the scope, I had to start from scratch and get on target with a new load. The crud ring I experienced in the Kodiak with the above mentioned load, stopped me from seating a second projectile to the same depth without brass cleaning jig and wet & dry patches. I would like to have the ability to seat a second load. I have heard the stories about BH 209, so I thought I would give it a try in the CVA Kodiak Mag. If it did not fire reliably, I would just use it in the TC Triumph. I want to see the difference between the powders, so I elected to stay with 250gr non-bonded (yellow tip) Shockwave with the factory supplied black sabot as that what was most accurate in my Triumph and wanted to try the Shockwave in the Kodiak as well. I would like to work up loads for a Barnes 250gr TMZ, but I thought I better change one thing at a time to compare the results of the powder change first.
Gun Prep:
I have read the reviews about using a hand turned drill but for the flash channel on the breechplugs. I did this prior to loading the guns and used an air compressor to blow out the residue. I was surprised how much buildup was there and will add this step to my normal cleaning routine regardless of what powder I shoot. I also am now using a guitar string to clean the flash hole of the breech plugs.
First, swab the barrels with dry patches, fire 3 777 primers (I have a glut of them, so I will use them for the fouling shots) and run another dry patch down the barrel to lightly “foul” the barrel and clean out the oils. I know many use a 30grain squib load, but if the gun remains loaded for a couple days, I worry about corrosion in the barrel, so I will stick with just the primers for now. I then double checked the breechplugs with the drill bit. Again, consistency equals accuracy.
Load:
I must say when I opened the can of BH 209, I was surprised. There was no plastic seal over the top of the can and cap, or white sealed paper inside the cap that had to be removed before getting to the powder. I know powder containers are not packed full, but the container was only filled to the level of the outside top label. My initial thought was this bottle had been already used, but it was not going to stop me from shooting today. Just wondered if anyone else had this experience?
In each gun I loaded, 100 grains of BH 209 by volume (70.0 grains by weight as I was weighing my charges), 250 grain Shockwave non-bonded (yellow-tip) with the factory supplied black sabot and Federal 209A primers.
Routine:
Shots were taken at 100 yards via Range finder. I would shoot the Kodiak walk down range to see where the shot hit, then walk back, measure the next charge, make scope adjustments, load and then fire again. Hopefully, this allowed for ample time to let the barrels cool.
Shots / observations:
Smoke is not as white as the 777 pellets and I believe there is less of it. I could continuously see the target through the scope after the gun went off. Recoil was about the same to a touch heavier. I was making scope adjustments after the shots, so I was not look to shoot a group. However, after 5 shots, I thought the scope should be just about perfect. Shot was 1” left of the bullseye. Loaded, fired and dead center bullseye. I am just resting the gun on my 4 wheeler seat, so variations could be me holding the gun steady. I called it quits at this point. 7 shots without swabbing the barrel or cleaning the breechplug! The gun never misfired or hang-fired. After I marked the ramrod on the first load, each subsequent load was able to be seeded to the same depth and with the same pressure without swabbing the barrel! One dry patch and the barrel was so clean, I do not think I needed to wipe down the Hoppes 9. However, I still did use the Hoppes and oil the gun.
Overall, I am impressed with this powder and combination. It cured my crud ring problem and I had no ignition issues. I am going to test it in the Triumph this weekend and might pull the Kodiak back out to see what type of group it shoots.
I may not be classified as a muzzleloader compared to the other members here. I sight in my in-line rifles, clean and oil them immediately after use, then clean them every quarter to make sure they stay clean and in pristine condition. I want accuracy and reliability on shot #1. I do not shoot for groups and rarely put in much range work. Actually, I have fired more shots with my two muzzleloaders at deer then I ever have at the range. That being said, I still want repeatable accuracy and reliability, regardless of cost, cleaning or time. My goal is to consistently be within a clay pigeon at 100 - 150 yards. I really do not want to have a hang-fire or miss fire, as this makes for an unreliable gun. I do not want to be sitting in the blind on the few occasions I get to hunt, wondering if the gun is going to go off.
Previous loads:
CVA .50 Kodiak Mag: 2 777 pellets, 245gr PowerBelt Aerotip & 777 primers.
TC Triumph: 2 777 pellets, 250gr Shockwave non-bonded (yellow tip), factory supplied black sabot & 777 primers.
I recently received my CVA Kodiak Mag back from CVA. It had been going “click” with only the primer dented and not firing on a consistent basis. Since I had to send it into CVA and pull the scope, I had to start from scratch and get on target with a new load. The crud ring I experienced in the Kodiak with the above mentioned load, stopped me from seating a second projectile to the same depth without brass cleaning jig and wet & dry patches. I would like to have the ability to seat a second load. I have heard the stories about BH 209, so I thought I would give it a try in the CVA Kodiak Mag. If it did not fire reliably, I would just use it in the TC Triumph. I want to see the difference between the powders, so I elected to stay with 250gr non-bonded (yellow tip) Shockwave with the factory supplied black sabot as that what was most accurate in my Triumph and wanted to try the Shockwave in the Kodiak as well. I would like to work up loads for a Barnes 250gr TMZ, but I thought I better change one thing at a time to compare the results of the powder change first.
Gun Prep:
I have read the reviews about using a hand turned drill but for the flash channel on the breechplugs. I did this prior to loading the guns and used an air compressor to blow out the residue. I was surprised how much buildup was there and will add this step to my normal cleaning routine regardless of what powder I shoot. I also am now using a guitar string to clean the flash hole of the breech plugs.
First, swab the barrels with dry patches, fire 3 777 primers (I have a glut of them, so I will use them for the fouling shots) and run another dry patch down the barrel to lightly “foul” the barrel and clean out the oils. I know many use a 30grain squib load, but if the gun remains loaded for a couple days, I worry about corrosion in the barrel, so I will stick with just the primers for now. I then double checked the breechplugs with the drill bit. Again, consistency equals accuracy.
Load:
I must say when I opened the can of BH 209, I was surprised. There was no plastic seal over the top of the can and cap, or white sealed paper inside the cap that had to be removed before getting to the powder. I know powder containers are not packed full, but the container was only filled to the level of the outside top label. My initial thought was this bottle had been already used, but it was not going to stop me from shooting today. Just wondered if anyone else had this experience?
In each gun I loaded, 100 grains of BH 209 by volume (70.0 grains by weight as I was weighing my charges), 250 grain Shockwave non-bonded (yellow-tip) with the factory supplied black sabot and Federal 209A primers.
Routine:
Shots were taken at 100 yards via Range finder. I would shoot the Kodiak walk down range to see where the shot hit, then walk back, measure the next charge, make scope adjustments, load and then fire again. Hopefully, this allowed for ample time to let the barrels cool.
Shots / observations:
Smoke is not as white as the 777 pellets and I believe there is less of it. I could continuously see the target through the scope after the gun went off. Recoil was about the same to a touch heavier. I was making scope adjustments after the shots, so I was not look to shoot a group. However, after 5 shots, I thought the scope should be just about perfect. Shot was 1” left of the bullseye. Loaded, fired and dead center bullseye. I am just resting the gun on my 4 wheeler seat, so variations could be me holding the gun steady. I called it quits at this point. 7 shots without swabbing the barrel or cleaning the breechplug! The gun never misfired or hang-fired. After I marked the ramrod on the first load, each subsequent load was able to be seeded to the same depth and with the same pressure without swabbing the barrel! One dry patch and the barrel was so clean, I do not think I needed to wipe down the Hoppes 9. However, I still did use the Hoppes and oil the gun.
Overall, I am impressed with this powder and combination. It cured my crud ring problem and I had no ignition issues. I am going to test it in the Triumph this weekend and might pull the Kodiak back out to see what type of group it shoots.
One thing I do that is a little different than your routine. I put a ramrod down my ML with a patch and jag and seat it on a unloaded barrel then pop a primer. I feel this does two things. 1. It cleans any oil and debris that may be present. Two it verifies that I have a clear flash channel by giving me a burned patch. Visable evidence that I have a clear flash channel. Tony Knight Showed me this trick years ago with one of his first Knights and I have been using it ever since with every Inline I have owned and never had a misfire in the field or at the range.
09-09-2013 | 05:41 AM
#3
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
From: MN
Glad it worked well for you, though it usually does for most people. My longest session was 52 shots with BH209 and no swabbing, though somewhere between 25 and 30 shots I did get a misfire due to a clogged breech plug. I knew this was going to happen and was wanting to see how the gun would function without any maintenance during the range session.
As for the can being open, I'll have to double check my full can, but I'm almost positive that it has the white seal on top. I could be wrong, but I think it does. As for the can being full, it's not. I think they usually seem to be about half full when new. That part is always kind of disappointing.
As for the can being open, I'll have to double check my full can, but I'm almost positive that it has the white seal on top. I could be wrong, but I think it does. As for the can being full, it's not. I think they usually seem to be about half full when new. That part is always kind of disappointing.
