Will the .58 ever be right?
#1
This is getting to be such a headache. It was raining today so I decided to cast some balls for my .58 today. Last night I heated, lubed and smoked the mould. Today I got the stove out got it all fired up and the lead molten. Heated the mould and started casting. The first dozen or so had the usual shrinkage lines until the mould reached temp. But after a while I noticed that the mould was casting out balls with the parting line plus additional chatter machine marks parallel to the parting line. I re-cleaned and re-smoked the mould but still got the same lines.
I took some pics and call Lee and told them. I sent them and email and told them to resolve this issue for me. I don't see these lines as an accuracy issue but I would like them not to be there at all.
I took some pics and call Lee and told them. I sent them and email and told them to resolve this issue for me. I don't see these lines as an accuracy issue but I would like them not to be there at all.
#2
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
You must have done evil things in your youth Bronko. Can't catch a break.
I don't think that will affect accuracy either. But I too would hate to see a mold doing that.
If Lee does not replace the mold, and it really bothers you, do this. At the sprue cut-off point on one of the balls cast from that mold, drill 1/8" hole about half way into the ball as straight as possible toward the center. Screw a 1/8" x 2" machine screw into the hole and cut off the screw head. Mount the screw shank in an electril drill. Coat the ball with tooth paste. Close the mold around the coated ball and spin it slowly in the cavity - forward and reverse - for a brief period. JB bore paste may work also, but I haven't tried that.
I don't think that will affect accuracy either. But I too would hate to see a mold doing that.
If Lee does not replace the mold, and it really bothers you, do this. At the sprue cut-off point on one of the balls cast from that mold, drill 1/8" hole about half way into the ball as straight as possible toward the center. Screw a 1/8" x 2" machine screw into the hole and cut off the screw head. Mount the screw shank in an electril drill. Coat the ball with tooth paste. Close the mold around the coated ball and spin it slowly in the cavity - forward and reverse - for a brief period. JB bore paste may work also, but I haven't tried that.
#3
Thanks Semi. It almost looks as though they forgot to polish it. I'm not sure how they make these moulds but that sure does look like machine chatter to me!
They did say they had replacement parts for them. So we'll see what becomes of it.
They did say they had replacement parts for them. So we'll see what becomes of it.
#4
A lot of Lee Molds do throw flawed projectiles for a number of casting occasions until the mold itself "breaks in." Lee will probably tell you that some molds require a break in period. I too, would be upset if I cast roundball and they looked like that. I am sure it will not effect the accuracy, but that's not quite the issue.



