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ps: you any good at case hardening? ;) And remember... wood burns.

Or you can just have the adjustment screw be a self-locking screw. These do not back out or move on their own.
I think with all these hints on design changes you should call the rifle the "Huntingnet Black Powder Special"

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Instead of just a simple hammer notch, make it follow the circumference of the hammer by a bit more than the amount of travel needed for a notched safety to operate. If that were cut true, it would work nicely.

Right on UC. I planned to do that because it would facilitate using a safety notch at the rear of the cocking bar slot.

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I would also be sure the only place the trigger bar contacts the sear bar is near the aft end. I'm thinking too much contact along those parallel surfaces would make for somewhat erratic function, especially if any debris gets in there.

I tried that with a model. The geometry and mechanics didn't seem to work well and for some reason I don't quite understand required a longer trigger pull. The slide fit worked beautifully. I've considered putting a teflon coating between the two. But they should fit together tight and should slide well with a good polish.

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A small set screw in from the side of the trigger bar to keep the adjustment screw from moving might be a good add.

Good suggestion UC. Keep them coming.

Bronko, it keeps eating at me that this design is asking an awful lot from one little spring. I'm all for K.I.S.S. but this might be too much?? Posted before seeing your comments, Semi. Thanks.

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Or you can just have the adjustment screw be a self-locking screw. These do not back out or move on their own.

That's even better!

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I think with all these hints on design changes you should call the rifle the "Huntingnet Black Powder Special"

Not a bad idea Bronko. I don't usually put a name to a gun, except for "Miss Piggy", my very first build in the early `60s. But this one already seems to have a name associated with my long suffering wife.

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ps: you any good at case hardening? ;)

I have some Kasenit around here someplace. I've used it before to good effect.

Semi - I'm looking at this design and started laughing to myself. Why? Because when I shoot off the bench, I have a habit of wrapping my 'free arm' around the rear bags. This puts my forearm directly in front of the trigger guard. I can just see myself firing this rifle and getting a flash burn on my forearm or wrist.
I'm not sure what the dimensions of the striker will be but I suggest making the cup of the striker deep enough to prevent such an incident.
I still have a scar on my right wrist from firing a RH flintlock with my free hand too close to the flash pan. Happened a very long time ago when I was young and not too bright. (And don't you dare say now I'm old and not too bright - cause I know that's what you're thinking.)

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I can just see myself firing this rifle and getting a flash burn on my forearm or wrist.

Leather arm guard from an archery shop? :s2:

OK guys, here's the updated diagram with changes so far. Any other suggestions?