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Old 02-17-2012 | 01:14 PM
  #11  
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Don't seem to be much help here.

You wouldn't ignore a noob would you?

Help!

I guess I can figure it out.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:05 PM
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traditions kentucky. That amount of poor spark is pretty typical. I had to heat mine up red hot then i quinched it in motor oil. Water is supposed to be better for that part though.

Mine fires super fast now that i got it sparking good and use good flints. It took me a while though to figure out just the right amount of charge in the prime pan.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:08 PM
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I guess we all figured you were beyond help anyway Muley.

You don't have the gun yet, so you really don't know if you need to do anything for the lock. The lock on my GPR was fast and reliable from the factory. You did the best thing you could for ignition of the charge when you ordered that RMC liner. The Lyman liners leave something to be desired. As a minimum their flash hole usually needs to be enlarged.

There are many things that can be done to tune a flintlock, from deburring all of the internals to making adjustments to the frizzen/frizzen spring relationship.

Let's see what you get and work from there. In the meantime, you may want to get a pan primer. They are not absolutely necessary, but handy.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:11 PM
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rmc liner sucked in my GPR, slowed down the ignition big time. Didn't do much for my kentucky either but i think that was before i rehardened the frizzen.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:20 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Semisane
I guess we all figured you were beyond help anyway Muley.

You don't have the gun yet, so you really don't know if you need to do anything for the lock. The lock on my GPR was fast and reliable from the factory. You did the best thing you could for ignition of the charge when you ordered that RMC liner. The Lyman liners leave something to be desired. As a minimum their flash hole usually needs to be enlarged.

There are many things that can be done to tune a flintlock, from deburring all of the internals to making adjustments to the frizzen/frizzen spring relationship.

Let's see what you get and work from there. In the meantime, you may want to get a pan primer. They are not absolutely necessary, but handy.
I bought a primer, pick, brush, hammer, and the flints are Tom fuller. I have no clue how to knap a flint. I'll have to study up on it.

Wasn't there something about heat treating the frizzen, or someone making a better one? I seem to remember using a TC hammer too, or what do you call it when it's a flint?


Jon...stop being a party pooper. You probably had BH 209 in the pan.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:21 PM
  #16  
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rmc liner sucked in my GPR, slowed down the ignition big time.
How did it do that Devil? Did you really have slower ignition with the RMC liner than with the Lyman factory liner? If so, you may be the only person in the world to have experienced that.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:28 PM
  #17  
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The "hammer" on a flintlock is called a C0CK. (I shall refain from further comment, given your relationship with MD) The frizzen will likely be just fine.

Some people have replaced the Lyman C0CK and their early model TC C0CK with the TC redesigned one to improve the angle at which the flint strikes the frizzen. They claim better spark and longer flint life. I haven't done that, so can't recommend for or against it.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:31 PM
  #18  
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I actually wrote cock first, but I was sure the forum filter would kill it, and I wasn't real sure anyway.
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Old 02-17-2012 | 02:33 PM
  #19  
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If everything is working right. Will it be as fast as a caplock?
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Old 02-17-2012 | 05:28 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Muley Hunter
If everything is working right. Will it be as fast as a caplock?
That was my question when I got my first flintlock. The answer I was given was always "No." So far, I've found that answer to be accurate. I've got it pretty quick, but I can't match a caplock speed.
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