Building a Traditions .54 caliber Deerhunter rifle kit.Is now complete.
08-07-2011 | 09:06 AM
#22
Typical Buck
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 550
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
Its looking real good. You didn't waste no time in putting it together. You probably could get it ready for hunting season THIS year!
I know a stock guy that does a heck of job and he just uses tru-oil. I think the way he does it a coat once a day for a week. Then a coat every other day for a week and then once a week for a month. Then does a coat of the stock sheen They turn out fantastic! Actually he is doing a stock for my dad right now.
I know a stock guy that does a heck of job and he just uses tru-oil. I think the way he does it a coat once a day for a week. Then a coat every other day for a week and then once a week for a month. Then does a coat of the stock sheen They turn out fantastic! Actually he is doing a stock for my dad right now.
I like to use tung seed oil, i usually do every other day with doing a total of 10 applications but, still like to use a polyurethane to seal it...
08-07-2011 | 09:47 PM
#24
Typical Buck
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 766
Likes: 0
From: Central Connecticut
I have a Deer hunter .50 with a composite stock and a nickel barrel. My son has hunted with it and it shoots sabots very good. The front sight is not made for extreme precision but it's highly visible in the woods. I like guns that have drums because they're very reliable and easy to clean.
Last edited by arcticap; 08-07-2011 at 09:50 PM.
08-07-2011 | 11:12 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 0
From: Anne Arrundle County, Maryland
That .50 caliber Deerhunter is a 1:48" twist right? Just like the .54 caliber? How's the trigger on that one? Have you messed around with the sear screw yet?
I posted pictures of the stock after a I stained it again. Now to seal it, let that dry, and load her up. I'm getting impatient though and really want to skip the seal, but I've gotten this far and I should really take my time and finish it right.
I posted pictures of the stock after a I stained it again. Now to seal it, let that dry, and load her up. I'm getting impatient though and really want to skip the seal, but I've gotten this far and I should really take my time and finish it right.
Last edited by pluckit; 08-07-2011 at 11:18 PM.
08-08-2011 | 01:32 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 0
From: Anne Arrundle County, Maryland
I very much like Minwax clear satin water based Polycrylic. I cut with 25% water and apply very thin coats using a 8" square of clean cotton cloth balled up into a puff ball. It dries almost instantly and can be sanded within fifteen minutes. I apply at least six coats, wet sanding very lightly with 600 grit paper between coats. It gives you a durable finish that's also easy to touch up if the gun gets banged around. Be sure to put a coat or two in the barrel channel to seal it.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish
08-08-2011 | 02:04 PM
#27
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
I think you will like the results. It doesn't take much sanding, just a very light pass once or twice over each area. Don't sand the last coat. For the last coat, try it un-thinned. If you don't like how that looks, sand it one more time and apply a thinned final coat.
