Iowabucks44

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the cheapestest so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Compainies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a would stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the for arm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

After the lug screw is tight, place the gun horizontal and sqeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement - your done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same your done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrels returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the orginal location and you feel no points of stickyness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickyness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollor bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thinkness of a single dollor bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normall use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

mike

Hey Mike...why should that be the max thickness?

Damn straight.

7.62NATO

Originally Posted by sabotloader
Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thinkness of a single dollor bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock.

Hey Mike...why should that be the max thickness?

It is just a personal thing.... but where I hunt if you get a gap much thicker than that you will end with the barrel channel under the barrel full of needles, twigs, and other useless things. They also could defeat the purpose of floating if they add up and apply pressure on one spot on the barrel - remote that it might happen but...

Hope that makes sense....

Perfect sense. I thought it was related to accuracy in and of itself...in a vacuum, so to speak. Thanks.

Thanks for taking the time to type that out Mike!

ubetcha...

but u really can not call what i do typing...