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As a full time cabinetmaker, I would like to add that an alchohol stain's main positive attribute is its clarity. Some of the other stains cloud the look of the wood while they color it. As far as controling color, alchohol based stains can be a bugger to use on large surfaces, like a desk top, but on small items like a gunstock the fast drying is not a problem. Sometimes an alchohol based stain can raise the grain of the wood so a light sanding might be necessary before topcoating.
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Originally Posted by flounder33
(Post 3760454)
As a full time cabinetmaker, I would like to add that an alchohol stain's main positive attribute is its clarity. Some of the other stains cloud the look of the wood while they color it. As far as controling color, alchohol based stains can be a bugger to use on large surfaces, like a desk top, but on small items like a gunstock the fast drying is not a problem. Sometimes an alchohol based stain can raise the grain of the wood so a light sanding might be necessary before topcoating.
Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
(Post 3760398)
alcohol stains penetrate the wood and are easier to control the color depth VS oil stains. All our local stores carry nothing but oil stain so BC or something else online has to be ordered when ever i restore a stock. So basically if you can find an Alcohol based stain, that will do the job.
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Bought a Birchwood Casey kit yestarday at Bass Pro and found out it is a water base stain, not alchohol base stain. I guess I will try it on the Kentucky pistol first before I start on the Hawkens.
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oops, I assumed MD was right when he said it was an alchohol based stain. The water based stain will probably raise the grain but you can deal with that with a light sanding.
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Originally Posted by flounder33
(Post 3762292)
oops, I assumed MD was right when he said it was an alchohol based stain. The water based stain will probably raise the grain but you can deal with that with a light sanding.
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There is no reason why you can't do a great job with the stain provided in the kit. What I like to do, when using a water based stain, is raise the grain of the wood before staining, the whiskers will stand up, then sand everything smooth again, do your staining and lightly sand with some 320 grit sandpaper. I mean lightly so you do not affect your staining job. Then finish as usual.
Personally, I am not nutz about water based stains and finishes but you can still do a nice job with them. |
When the whiskers stand up, run the back of your hand down the stock and then up the stock, when you feel the whiskers bite your skin, thats the direction you need to go and only that way.
I dont mix water in with the BC stain, use it straight, just remember that when you add the clear finish, it will darken it a bit. |
Aniline dyes will let the wood shine through much more so than Minwax or Birchwood Casey.
You can buy the powdered dyes and blend your own custom colors: http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct...nsFastdyes.htm You need to de-whisker before staining. YMMV |
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