Gun: TC BC Triumph 50cal

Powder Load: 100gr by volume of BH 209

Bullet: 250 gr TEZ

When I got to range today I ran a dry patch through to get oil out and popped one primer before shooting (I guess I should have popped two and ran a drypatch through but didnt). It was odd that it took about 5 - 6 shots before I started to have a pattern but thinking back on it - I really didnt see the pattern till I switched sabots. (I stuck with shooting the 250gr TEZs just to have a constant (along with not cleaning the gun) in the mix).

I started off shooting the smooth mmp-24s and oddly enough wasnt getting the tight consistent pattern -it was kinda odd.

Then I decided to use the red crushed ribbed harvester sabots (the ones that say they are designed for smokeless powder). I had to use a starter rod (first sabot that I have used to require that) then really took some pressure to get it home but it was pretty much dead on 3 out of 4 shots. Then I started thinking about how in the heck I was going to reload in the treestand with these sabots if I ever needed to

So then I decided to use one of the blue sabots that come with the TEZs. First shot was dead center and second was about 3/4" from first shot. It didnt require a starter rod and snugness seemed to fit between the mmp24s and the red Harvester. Odd - cause I am betting that the blues are probably made by mmp so it should have been same results as mmp-24s???? Unless the gun wasnt dirty enough when I was shooting the 24s initially cause I didnt change a thing.

Anyway I will be hunting next week with the blue sabots that come with the TEZs based on last two shots and possible need to reload. Wish I had more time to play with 300 gr bullets and some diffrent powder loads but will have to wait till next year.

I would try popping 3 caps off in a clean oil free barrel prior to range/hunting, then load up the TEZ's without cleaning in between and see how it does.although i don't shoot Bh209( i have some coming to try!) from what i have read a lot of people claim loading is consistent from first to last shot with BH 209.it still surprises me you can get a mmp- 24 down that barrel lol! everyone i know who shoots a Triumph, with the exception of Sabotloader, who ran a bunch of strokes with JB through his, uses Crushed ribs or the supplied blue sabot.i did run about 30 strokes of JB/oil through mine and i still use the supplied blue or a crushed rib.. good luck on your hunt! Ray

I swear I only ran like 10 strokes of JB in mine. Yeah - i dont need a starter rod at all with the 24s, the blue ones or the crushed ribbed blacks (especially - they go down with palm of one hand on ramrod). The "Red" Harvester sabots are really tight (require starter rod and quite a bit of force (not like I am having to stomp on it but it requires an adult's strength for certain) but the gun really likes them but there again got pretty good results with the blues I tried at the end (could have been due to powder build up in barrel after the 11th shot that made it as accurate as the red). Now I didnt try the mmp-12s (ran out of time). The blue sabots and mmp24s seemed about the same in terms of pressure to push them down. Someone on here thinks that the new Triumphs are coming with a slightly larger bore than previous models???? This is my first MZ and I dont know anyone else around here that has one to compare.

It is a bit of mystery at this point. Looking forward to playing around with it this Spring and Summer to try out everything (cleaning methods (especially), different primers, different grain bullets and types, 110 grains by volume, etc).

Bonner1

Bonner check this site...

The blue sabots are MMP HPH-24's

http://www.barnesbullets.com/product...ader-accuracy/

The Red CR's will be slightly larger than HPH-12 but they will load easier because they are ribbed...

There is a learning curve.....

You said it By the way I just confirmed the hph-12s will not fit - thought I was going to have to screw it out. I was wondering if the crushed rib was reason why it was fitting. Thanks for the info.

Do you think the reason the "blue" sabots held a tighter group at end of session than the hph24s did at beginning was due to powder buildup?

There really is not a big build up of powder in the bore... it is more or less a constant level of BH dust... Your problem may have been getting all of the lubricants out of the bore.

One thing since I do not know what bore oil you are using or how much might have been in the bore before you began shooting... I would suggest, as several people do, before shooing did you run a few Alcohol patches through the bore to help draw out the bore oils.

But in all honesty I think you might have finally cleared the bore of lubricants when it started shooting well. You might have even had some remanents of JB's and oil left in the bore dehind the lands....

Just kinda thinking out loud....

X2 on that SL, i would try and get back out again and try a clean oil free barrel with the blue sabots. 5 shot group. clean the the barrel again and try the 24's then again clean the barrel and then the red crushes rib. that way everything is the same out the gate with each sabot.. oh and try busting at least 3 caps prior to testing all the different sabots. i just don't like leaving a barrel dirty, even using Bh209 i wouldn't.Sabot loader my Bh209 should be here end of week lol! can't wait to test it.

builder459


I just wish TC would wake up and smell the Roses and offer that dang gun in real Stainless... If they want more sales and a boost in their profit margin getting the Triumph/Bone Collector/Dream Season in stainless would be a boost...

I do not even need one but I would seriously consider it....

The TEZ's shoot really well with the Harvester black CR sabots out of a Thompson Center.

Understood.

I did not run an alcohol swab through - just a dry patch. I assume I should be running an alcohol swab through instead of dry patch (prior to popping some primers and preparing to shoot after thorough cleaning)? When you say alcohol swab - can I use the kind that people use prior to getting a shot or cleaning a wound (they come prepackaged) or just soak a dry patch in rubbing alcohol?

After I cleaned from last range visit I cleaned the bore and breech plug thoroughly with regular solvent and gun scrubber getting the patches to come out spotless. Then I liberally sprayed "Cabelas Barrel Blaster Rust Prevent Spray" in barrel and ran one dry patch through one time just to catch excess and let it be until I brought it out today at which time I ran two dry patches in and out till I saw no evidence of moisture on the patch.

I may go ahead and clean it tomorrow (just hard letting a dirty gin sit like this - especially since is not a SS barrel) and then try somehow to go to an indoor range at some point this week just to see how it shoots out of the box after popping three primers prior to shooting to see where first one lands. However want to see what you all have to say about what I have talked about in this one.