So I got out and shot my blackpowder rifle some today. Not as much as I'd like as I forgot most of my pyrodex pellets I was going to use. Anyway, During cleaning it I wondered if I'm really doing it the correct way. So what I've been doing is pouring some hot soapy water down the barrel, then running a wet brush down the barrel several times. Then I just have been soaking patches in the hot soapy water and running them down the barrel. Then I run a few dry patches down it and then oil it. One thing I've noticed is that even after patches are coming out clean, if I poor hot water down the barrel then run another patch down it, it comes out dirty again. This is what has me wondering if I need to do something else.

Im not sure the who sent me this info I think Dave(Cayugad)
Hope it helps....This is for an inline not a side lock


Here's what I do with my ML (Genesis) after every time I shoot it...

1. Disassemble weapon. To include removing the trigger group and torch cam breech block assembly.

2. Put the breech plug, torch cam breech block, firing pin, firing pin spring, breech block retaining pin in a jar of Remington Express Clean Parts Bath. (Same as Traditions Clean Parts Bath). Let them soak until the end of the cleaning.

3. Depending on the extent of required cleaning on the trigger group, I usually don't do anything with it. If there's any dirt or fouling in there, I use Remington Action Cleaner to blast it all out. Then I apply some Remington Dry Lube to the trigger parts. Sometime I will disassemble the entire trigger if I have the time. But it hasn't needed that detailed of a cleaning yet. I just do it for fun when I'm bored.

4. Using q-tips and rags, I soak them with Remington Express Clean Spray Solvent (same as Traditions) and begin to work on the lower receiver. I focus primarily on the breech area as it tends to accumulate the most fouling. Sometimes it requires the use of an AP brush or even a bore brush if the fouling is really baked on. Keep going until satisfied with cleanliness. Then I apply a thin film of RemOil on all the metal parts.

5. Begin on barrel. I start with two patches soaked with the above listed solvent and then I use a bore brush also soaked with solvent. Then I swab the bore rotating between solvent soaked patches and clean patches. Once I'm satisfied with cleanliness I move onto cleaning the breech end of the barrel.

6. I wrap a solvent soaked patch on my bore brush and insert it into the breech end of the barrel while spinning it. This allows me to clean the threads where the breech plug goes. Sometimes I'll use aerosol shotgun cleaner to blast the threads with but I use the above mentioned method most of the time because I clean inside the house. I also spray some solvent on q-tips and work all the bevelled areas of the breech end of them barrel.

7. Once the breech end is clean, I apply some bore protectant to a patch and run it all the way through the bore. I flip it over and run it again.

8. Then I clean the outside surface of the barrel with RemOil and a rag. I use q-tips with RemOil to get into tight places.

9. Then I wipe down the scope and use my Nikon Lens Pen to clean the glass. Then I'm done with the barrel assembly.

10. By this time the breech parts have soaked quite a while and are ready for cleaning. I start with the torch cam parts. I scrub them and q-tip them with spray solvent until I'm satisfied with their cleanliness. I usually have to use a small flat-head screwdriver to scrape off the baked on fouling that accumulates on the face of the torch cam.

11. Then I dry the parts with a rag, apply RemOil and reassemble them.

12. Then I work on the breech plug. The majority of the fouling has become gunk due to the bath. I swab all that off with q-tips and use a .22 bronze bore brush to scrub the remaining fouling off. Then I run an 1/8" drill bit down the firing channel while spinning it with my fingers. A final spray of solvent, some q-tips and a couple pipe cleaners finishes off the breech plug. It always looks brand new when I'm done.

13. I don't use teflon tape or grease on my breech plug since I have yet to encounter a problem removing it after firing Blackhorn 209. I just apply a very light coat of RemOil on the threads and re-install it in the barrel.

14. Then I reassemble everything. I apply a small amount of RemOil on the threads of all the hex screws before installing them.

15. Once everything is reassembled, I wipe off any part of the gun I touched during the process with a rag sprayed with RemOil.

After that I just put it in my gun case and it's good to go until the next time I want to fire it.

That 'dirt' that you are seeing after flushing with hot water is flash surface rust and wipes out easily. Generally a couply dry patches then an oil or bore butter stops it from recurring.
I used to use hot soapy water with a hot water rinse and then coat the bore with bore butter. But lately I found a product at a stricly ML shop called turkey tracks black powder cleaner. All you do is plug the nipple, breech, whatever with a toothpick, dump about 2 tablespoons down the bore, cover the muzzle and tip the rifle back and forth to wet the entire bore, let set for 10 mins, pour out, remove nipple, breech plug and swab bore. The bore comes out slick as a whistle. I don't know what it is but it is not petroleum based. Ithen dry the bore good with some dry patches. Then run an alcohol patch down the bore to get out any residual moisture, then coat the bore with Montana's Bore Conditioner. Then I clean the breech plug or nipple and apply teflon tape (breech plug) and anti-sieze lube and reinstall. Wipe down the outside metal with gun oil and put away.

INLINE RIFLES
There are two ways I clean them. A lot of it depends in whether the scope comes off or now. The main way is …

• Insure the rifle is unloaded. If you are not 100% positive, check that rifle.
• Break the rifle down to as many pieces as possible, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Place all the small fowled parts in a water soap solution or solvent solution. Normally the water and soap work fine. These include the breech plug, the hammer striker, etc..
• Remove the scope if possible. Pay attention here to insure you do not loose any part from the scope rings (voice of experience here).
• With the barrel now broken down, I like to swab the bore with Windex, Simple Green, 409, soap and water patches, or any other favorite solution to remove as much of the fowling as possible. Usually two patches are enough. I always like to work from the breech to the muzzle so I do not move any more fowling then necessary over the breech thread. The patches can be very saturated now.
  
• Now I run solvent patches through the bore of the barrel and over the parts I cleaned, including the scope. I want to make sure there is no sign of fowling anyway.
• Visually inspect all parts and the bore of the rifle.
• With an air compressor, blow out the breech plug. And I like to wipe all parts off with a patch with some alcohol on it. Then some dry patches to make sure there is no hidden water on them. The same of the barrel. I like to swab the barrel with an alcohol patch and then dry patches until I am sure it is dry.
• After I am sure the bore of the rifle is clean and dry, I swab the bore with favorite gun oil. I also wipe off the scope, and all other parts except the breech plug. Wipe the outside of the barrel off as well as the scope.
• Now apply a good coating of the Teflon tape or breech plug grease, or both. What every you feel most comfortable with. I use Slick 50 One grease. I then like to put the plug back in the rifle since I shoot so often.
  
• BUT if you will not shoot that rifle for an extended period of time, you might be better served to place all those small parts in a zip lock baggie. With a paper punch and some duct tape, tape a corner of the baggie and punch a hole through the tape and bag. This will give the bag strength. Now a small piece of string and tie that to the trigger guard. You now have a clean rifle and all the parts ready for the next time. In this bag I also on a small piece of paper write down what this rifle's favorite load is and where it is sighted in to. In case you have a couple of rifles and can not remember all of their loads.
  
• Reassemble the rifle according to manufacture's recommendations.
  
• I also put a small amount of the Slick 50 on the lug screws. As I screw them in to hold the barrel to the stock this helps protect them from rust and it helps them in removal the next time.

You have given your rifle a water bath and the patches come up clean. You then run another patch and the patches come up gray looking or they have rifling streaks. What that dry patch is picking up is moisture with fouling in it, left in the breech. Keep pushing dry patches through it. Usually three is enough. Then they will come up clean. Now oil the bore with a clean patch and your favorite gun oil.

My inlines with BH209:

Soak some patches with BH209 solvent, swap the bores clean and follow up with a few dry patches. Run a lightly coated patch down the bore with montana xtreme gun oil.

Get a few q tips with BH209 solvent and clean the face of the frame, dry and replace barrel and fore arm.

Breech plug care: Use #32 drill bit *cva size* and clean carbon out of plug, Take a solvent soaked patch and wipe breech plug clean.

Simple as that.

Dish Soap, Hot water and a Brass Brush, followed by a few TC No13 Bore Cleaner Patches to remove the (Flash Rust) caused by cleaning it with Water, then Montana Extreme Bore Conditioner, followed by a few dry patches just leaving enough Oil in it to protect the Bore.
This is with Pyro RS, different methods are used for different Powders.
(BP)

Pyrodex pellets are what I'm using, and the rifle just happens to be a Remington Genesis, which is what the first poster posted directions for.

Is there really any difference between pellets and powder???

I don't think so!!!

Thanks for the info BP.

Anytime rafsob!
Anyway I thought he was mostly interested in why he was getting the (Flash Rust) if I thought it was about A Complete Cleaning of the ML I'd have written a more including the BP, Action and Finish.
I think I better do some more reasearch on the differences of Powders and Mlers befor I post such nonsence, my fault. And that (Remington Genesis) you have, does it have a Barrel and a Breechplug?

No, but I just wanted to mention that I was using pellets, even though I know it's the same.

I was interested in why I was getting flash rust so thanks for the help. I didn't realize it was flash rust when I was cleaning the gun. Thanks again.