Cap and ball revolver disappointment
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
So you really stick the entire trigger assembly and frame in water? I did the barrel and cylinder.
When I first got my revolver, all I used was Pyrodex P. What a PITA to clean. Then I bought some Pinnacle 3f and tried that. What a difference experience that made to shooting the revolver. With Pyrodex I had to pull the cylinder and wipe out the frame, the loading lever rod, and the locking pin rod, not to mention use a Q tip and clean the hole where the cylinder rod went. Using Pyrodex was also a pain at the end of the day to clean.
Using Pinnacle, APP or JSG I take the wood grips off, and just put the revolver and all parts in dishwater. Using a tooth brush I can have that thing clean in just a short time. And there is very little on the range cleaning going on.
Maybe it was the flu you have, with that smoke blowing back in your face and all, I could see where that would affect your range pleasure. But if you ever get a chance, give them other powders a try. I think you will really enjoy the revolver a lot more.
Using Pinnacle, APP or JSG I take the wood grips off, and just put the revolver and all parts in dishwater. Using a tooth brush I can have that thing clean in just a short time. And there is very little on the range cleaning going on.
Maybe it was the flu you have, with that smoke blowing back in your face and all, I could see where that would affect your range pleasure. But if you ever get a chance, give them other powders a try. I think you will really enjoy the revolver a lot more.
#12


You can tell when I was bench resting the revolver. Those are the very full groups. Otherwise I was shooting point shoulder at 25 yards. I lucked out, there is no play in my revolver and when it is ****ed it moves perfect to the next cylinder. My impressions of the Cabela's revolver are very positive.
I was shooting a .22 caliber that day also. Just a real great day on the range.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Surprisingly, accuracy was the least of my issues. I thought 2" or less at 10 yards is good. I was expecting 6" at 10 yards. This was 30gr of 777p.
I too had the black powder revolver craze. I got a cabela's Ole Army 1858 and started playing. And you right I had alot of slack in the cylinder and sometimes had to finish rotating it over into the locked positon on the cylinder pin. I also used H P for my loads 30grs of powder. I made a mansized targets and at 25yds I would hit all over the place. I did better at just pointing and shooting than actually trying to aim. I myself was severly disappointed. I would love to come across someone I know that has the Ruger version and shoot that for a bit to see if I like it. Because if Cabela's standard to quality was the same as the old west lord helped them boys survive not the accuracy of the firearm. I hung mine on a wall and it has never left the wall since. I even used pre made wadding to help uniform the powder charge. Loading them is a bust too. I would get a loading block next time. It sounds fun but it looses it fantasy fast or did for me.
#14
Having pre-measured loads in containers can save time spent measuring powder & loading at the range.
An inexpensive loading stand will help keep the revolver upright and steady during loading.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...373b09a01462b7
Use a small funnel when loading powder to direct it into each chamber to prevent spillage.
Because the barrel of the Colt is easy to remove, it's simple to wash it in hot soapy water and then quickly dry it off to prevent flash rust and lube it. Also, don't forget to remove the nipples and apply lube to the threads.
Next time you'll be more familiar and better prepared to enjoy shooting the revolver.
An inexpensive loading stand will help keep the revolver upright and steady during loading.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...373b09a01462b7
Use a small funnel when loading powder to direct it into each chamber to prevent spillage.
Because the barrel of the Colt is easy to remove, it's simple to wash it in hot soapy water and then quickly dry it off to prevent flash rust and lube it. Also, don't forget to remove the nipples and apply lube to the threads.
Next time you'll be more familiar and better prepared to enjoy shooting the revolver.
Last edited by arcticap; 06-30-2010 at 07:24 PM.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
I think the stand would make the awkward factor shoot down.
Having pre-measured loads in containers can save time spent measuring powder & loading at the range.
An inexpensive loading stand will help keep the revolver upright and steady during loading.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...373b09a01462b7
Use a small funnel when dropping powder to direct it into each chamber to prevent spillage.
Because the barrel of the Colt is easy to remove, it's simple to wash it in hot soapy water and then quickly dry it off to prevent flash rust and lube it. Also, don't forget to remove the nipples and apply lube to the threads.
Next time you'll be more familiar and better prepared to enjoy shooting the revolver.
An inexpensive loading stand will help keep the revolver upright and steady during loading.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...373b09a01462b7
Use a small funnel when dropping powder to direct it into each chamber to prevent spillage.
Because the barrel of the Colt is easy to remove, it's simple to wash it in hot soapy water and then quickly dry it off to prevent flash rust and lube it. Also, don't forget to remove the nipples and apply lube to the threads.
Next time you'll be more familiar and better prepared to enjoy shooting the revolver.
#16
The easy way to load that cylinder...
Go to: www.blockaderunner.com google it, or click that link. It will list specials. On that page are two pistol flasks. They do sell (or used to) different grain spout to custom the load. If you have questions, call them and ask for Todd. He is their gun smith and a real black powder information source.
The light bronze cylinder (the one I use) is 20 grains of powder with the pre measured spout the dark bronze I believe is 30 grains. Fill that and it will give you pre measured loads. This is how I carry loose powder for my shotguns. I just fill a flask and measure in the field with it.
I pull the cylinder, and put it on my loader. Then I fill all the cylinders with a powder charge, add the wad, put the roundball on it, seat the roundball, and fill it with lube over the cylinders. Then just wipe the excess off.
Turn it over and put the caps on the nipples, and flop that back in the revolver and you are ready to shoot.
When I clean it, I take the wood grips off, take the revolver apart, and put the whole thing, parts and all in dishwater. With a tooth brush I scrub all the parts clean. Then I take an air compressor and blow the water off the frame and parts. After that I spray it with brake cleaner to make sure all the water is displaced. You could use WD-40 which is a great Water Dispacer. Then I oil my metal and trigger mechanisms down. I use a Q tip to make sure I scrub out and oil the area where the hammer falls into. After it is oiled up, I replace the wood grips and put it back in my holster.
Go to: www.blockaderunner.com google it, or click that link. It will list specials. On that page are two pistol flasks. They do sell (or used to) different grain spout to custom the load. If you have questions, call them and ask for Todd. He is their gun smith and a real black powder information source.
The light bronze cylinder (the one I use) is 20 grains of powder with the pre measured spout the dark bronze I believe is 30 grains. Fill that and it will give you pre measured loads. This is how I carry loose powder for my shotguns. I just fill a flask and measure in the field with it.
I pull the cylinder, and put it on my loader. Then I fill all the cylinders with a powder charge, add the wad, put the roundball on it, seat the roundball, and fill it with lube over the cylinders. Then just wipe the excess off.
Turn it over and put the caps on the nipples, and flop that back in the revolver and you are ready to shoot.
When I clean it, I take the wood grips off, take the revolver apart, and put the whole thing, parts and all in dishwater. With a tooth brush I scrub all the parts clean. Then I take an air compressor and blow the water off the frame and parts. After that I spray it with brake cleaner to make sure all the water is displaced. You could use WD-40 which is a great Water Dispacer. Then I oil my metal and trigger mechanisms down. I use a Q tip to make sure I scrub out and oil the area where the hammer falls into. After it is oiled up, I replace the wood grips and put it back in my holster.
#17
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
Likes: 0
It is good to use an extra flask for the corn meal filler to. i use 30 gr measure flask for the powder and a 15 gr measure flask for the corn meal. This makes a compressed load that is just right for my Ruger black powders. I use a full load for hunting.
#18
I am thinkning of what you wrote and how I experience my '58 Remi. Big difference. I bought a Uberti Remi and love it. I did have a friend do a little work on the trigger, but aside from that nothing of any significance else.

I would say I never use 777 or any other sub in it. I would say that 30 grs. of 777 is about the same as 35 or more grains of BP and that is way more then you need.
I use Goex FFFg. I also use only 25 grs. of powder in each chamber and no other media. I do use wads over the powder and then put bore butter over the ball even with the end of each chamber.
I get from an two inches to three inches groupings at 25 yards. They were never meant to have a high rate of accuracy.
If I could not get any real black powder like Goex, then I would use Pyrodex RS FFFg. This mimicks BP the best.
As to clean up, BP or subs are very easy to clean. They all make a mess, but clean up the pretty much the same.
Don't give up trying to have fun with these guns. They can be more fun then not spending a day at the range and at work!!!


I would say I never use 777 or any other sub in it. I would say that 30 grs. of 777 is about the same as 35 or more grains of BP and that is way more then you need.
I use Goex FFFg. I also use only 25 grs. of powder in each chamber and no other media. I do use wads over the powder and then put bore butter over the ball even with the end of each chamber.
I get from an two inches to three inches groupings at 25 yards. They were never meant to have a high rate of accuracy.
If I could not get any real black powder like Goex, then I would use Pyrodex RS FFFg. This mimicks BP the best.
As to clean up, BP or subs are very easy to clean. They all make a mess, but clean up the pretty much the same.

Don't give up trying to have fun with these guns. They can be more fun then not spending a day at the range and at work!!!


#19
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Well bigcountry, I hate to hear you didn't have much fun. Hopefully you're feeling better now and can give it a second whirl. I have an 1858 and love mine. I have only shot Pyrodex P out of it. I like the consistency of it, it's easy to find around here and very cheap. I load a wad over the powder but I do not use lube over the ball like a lot of people do. It's extra mess and I can't find an advantage to it.
I was surprised when I shot my first cylinder through it. I thought it would be just a dirty mess. It wasn't bad at all-but then again, I've always enjoyed cleaning my MLs so perhaps I'm bias.
Don't give up on it. Give it another try. I think my revolver might be the most enjoyable gun I own.
I was surprised when I shot my first cylinder through it. I thought it would be just a dirty mess. It wasn't bad at all-but then again, I've always enjoyed cleaning my MLs so perhaps I'm bias.
Don't give up on it. Give it another try. I think my revolver might be the most enjoyable gun I own.



