Josh,
Your problems are typical of 777 and you need to get with Sabot loader about the right mod on your breach plug for BH to not have any problems, BH works better than any other powder when you have the right breach plug set up.
Secondly shooting any other powder over 777 crudring with out a real scrubbing will give me a bad day every time so I have to suspect it can do the same for you.
The only draw back to BH when you have the right set up is the price, since I am old and they tell me I can not take it with me any way I don't worry about that. Lee

Gm54-120

Oh! OK - my bad! Gees I hate when my kids say that.....

Lee

And you always bring things back in perspective, as you are right as usual...

Lee really does.

Things get lost in forum opinions/communications and some "like me" dont convey them as well as others.

Its odd though that the FPJ on the LK93 works much better with BH209 than the Extreme or GMB54. I dont think i have had a single hange fire with it. The BPs look the same but i dont think the flash hole is.

The GMB54 and Extreme do need improvement with it but im usually good to go. NFPJs in most or all Disks is a big improvement in ignition for sure. The Gen I Lehigh may have not been the cleanest but ignition was about as good as it gets in all of mine.

Give me a nickel for every time its happened to me and I could buy a couple pounds of powder. Josh just josh... a stuck jag and patch happen for a couple reasons.

1. the patch is too big. If these are store bought patches made for a muzzleloader this should not be a problem. But if you cut (or in my case tear) your own, be careful about the size. If you start the patch down the bore and it seems extra tight, then pull it back out before it becomes a problem.

2. The patch is too dry. This happens a lot. People do not want to saturate a patch and I agree, there is no need for saturation. But that does not mean that the patch does not have to be damp. When I spritz a patch, I will often times if it is too wet, ring it out with my fingers. Then use it. I can always go down the bore with an extra dry one.

3. Your moving too much down the bore at one time. Work the damp patch down the bore in 3 inch amounts. Never put that patch on the end of a ramrod and just think you are going to shove it down the bore. When you scrub something you work in short strokes. Well the bore of the rifle is the same way. Work it down in short strokes. When the damp patch moved in that area easy, then push it down a little further. Work the next area, and so on, until you get to the base of the breech. Down there you have to be real careful. Especially if there is a crud ring down there. You might have to work it in 1/2 inch amounts to break up a crud ring. If it feels tight, do not down down further. Work the area you are in until you can move a little more. It takes more time, but you do a better job of swabbing, and you stick less patches.

Lets say you have the patch stuck. Now what to do? A simple solution is dump a little liquid down the bore and saturate the patch. The patch will absorb the liquid and usually allow you to work the patch a little. Also get a range rod that you can put a T handle on. Then you can stand on the T handle and pull that patch back up to an area of the barrel were it was not getting stuck.

Just remember, a damp patch, work in short strokes, take your time, if it feels tight back out a little and work the area over again. If you stick a patch (I use isopropyl alcohol) you can dump a little liquid down the bore so the patch absorbs it. It will usually loose it, let you finish your swabbing and then get it back out. Also check your jag when your done and make sure it has not come undone.

If you did have to dump a little more liquid down the bore, be sure to run a few extra dry patches until they come out dry. Then pop a 209 primer or two (or cap) to make sure the breech plug is blown clean and dry.

Hope this helped.

Shooting a muzzleloader has one heck of bigger learning curve then most firearms. I have learned to do things in small increments when it comes to making changes in my shooting. When I started pyrodex was the rage. I had a perfect load for deer hunting and was mostly satisfied. Then comes t7 and believe me I got my share of patches stuck till i learned what has been previously stated; work the damp patch down just a little at a time. I can feel the top of the crud ring and then I know it is really time to go slow. One thing I still will not do on the range is bottom out my jag no matter how slow I've cleaned. Last year I flirted with mag3 but the clumping up of the powder in my reloads tubes made me too nervous to use it during hunting this past season. Now I'm back with t7. I would love to use blackhorn but my ol gun will not handle it. I actually used it for 10 shots in my mk85 and it never misfires at all. The blowback was like unreal and I commented on here and then was told my gun could'nt use it safely. Patience and knowledge is the key to having fun with a muzzleloader. One small change and you will wonder where in the heck your accuracy went.

thanks for the info guys! especially cayugad, I never thought about the patch being too dry or pouring anything down the barrel before. I'm not new to muzzleloaders, this knight is my third one and I have been shooting them for a few years now (all I have hunted with for the last three years). The first time that I got the patch stuck I was shooting BH. I know people say that there is no crud ring, but I had one. I know that it wasn't left over from before because this is the first time i shot my knight. I think that it was probably from the dirty primers that I was shooting.
I emailed knight to cancel my order of the NFPJ plug because it's been weeks since I ordered it and they still haven't shipped it. I'm going to order a lehigh plug and try BH again.

Remember when you swab BlackHorn 209, you have to use solvent or alcohol.