new to muzzleloading
09-29-2009, 09:08 AM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: columbus ,oh
Posts: 190
new to muzzleloading
Hey guys, im new to this , I just scored a used tc encore magnum 209x50 . I stipped it down and cleaned it everywhere, inspecting everything,(own several guns) got it back to "like new" condition. added a nikon bdc omega scope to it and went out to site it in, I used pyronex (three of them) and a bronze bullet with a blue plastic wad. (not sure of what it was,my buddy had them) and sited it in at a hundred yards, shoots nice! bullseyes after the 6th shot, my question is what is recommended with these rifles?
cleaning (how often )?
what to lube it with?
breech plug care?
basically A quick crash course on what products to use to care for it,and things to do or not to do in the field?
looking for "kit" ideas that I can take with me in the field and have everything I would need to be and stay "ready" any help would be appreicated , and looking forward to taking it out this year.
cleaning (how often )?
what to lube it with?
breech plug care?
basically A quick crash course on what products to use to care for it,and things to do or not to do in the field?
looking for "kit" ideas that I can take with me in the field and have everything I would need to be and stay "ready" any help would be appreicated , and looking forward to taking it out this year.
09-29-2009, 09:54 AM
#2
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 21,193
cleaning (how often )? you clean the rifle at the end of the day, every time you shoot it. For instance, go to the range and shoot.. clean it that night. Or you hunt and get a shot, clean it that night. Depending on the kind of powder you use, the time you have between shooting and rusting is different. Of all the powders, Pyrodex will rust your rifle the fastest. But don't let that stop you from using it. Pyrodex is a great powder. Just clean the rifle that night.
what to lube it with? After I have the rifle clean, I protect the bore and metal parts with a quality gun oil. Leave the bore butter alone. Its a good conical lube. Other then that bore butter is a good patch lube.
breech plug care? After you have it clean, wrap it with teflon plumbers tape. I then like to apply a thin coat of Slick 50 One Greese. Or you can use breech plug greese, or anti seize.
basically A quick crash course on what products to use to care for it,and things to do or not to do in the field? For basic cleaning, dish soap water will clean most fouling, 409 spray cleaner, Windex, Simple Green, MAP, most any cleaner. There are commercial cleaners as well. Get a bottle of Windex from the dollar store and a lot of patchs. This will clean your bore free of fouling just fine. If you feel the bore might be contaminated with lead, copper, plastic or what fouling.. then get some commercial solution or some brake cleaner. It will remove all of that. Try not to get the commercial cleaners on any part of the stock.
looking for "kit" ideas that I can take with me in the field and have everything I would need to be and stay "ready" any help would be appreicated , and looking forward to taking it out this field kit.. breech plug wrench, a swiss army knife with an assortment of screw drivers and such, patches, small bottle of isopropyl alcohol, and some breech plug grease. That will normally get you through the day.
This is the way I like to clean them. Many people have their own methods and I am not trying to claim one is right over the other. This is just the method I use…
1. Swab the barrel with a patch on a cleaning jag. I like to saturate the patch with a mixture of 50/50 isopropyl alcohol and car windshield washer fluid. Some other things to use are Windex, and even simple water with some dish soap mixed in. All this step does is attempt to remove as much of the fowling as possible before I break the rifle down.
2. Disassemble the rifle according to the manufacture’s instructions. Be sure to lay the parts out in a orderly manner. In other words, know how it goes back together.
3. Take the fowled breech plug and place that in a soaking solution of water with a little dish soap. Also any other fowled parts that can be placed in that solution should be allowed to soak.
4. With the rifle now broken down, I like to take the isopropyl alcohol and windshield solution and wet a patch. I then wipe out the stock in all the areas that are fowled or COULD BE fowled. Allow that to dry as you clean the rest of the rifle.
5. Using a breech plug bush, wrap a patch around it, and saturate it with Windex or solvent. It is important that you scrub the breech plug threads and get them very clean. Continue with patches until you can look in there and see that the threads of that breech are clean and free of tape, or grease.
6. With a saturated patch, pushing from the breech to the muzzle, begin to swab the barrel clean of fowling. Do not drag the dirty patch back over the clean breech plug threads. This might take a couple saturated patches.
7. Place a brass bore brush on the ramrod and dip that in solvent. Now brush the barrel a couple times to remove anything that might have accumulated in the barrel.
8. With another saturated patch with some solvent or solution, swab the bore of the rifle again in the same manner you did before.. Note the color and condition of the patch. If it is clean, then you need to take steps to dry the barrel.
9. With just dry patches, swab the barrel until you are certain the barrel is dry. Feel that patch and if you feel moisture on it, keep swabbing with more patches.
10. When your certain the barrel is clean and dry, and the threads of the breech plug are clean and dry, put a HIGH QUALITY GUN OIL on a patch and swab the barrel of the rifle. Be sure to work that oil in real good into the bore to cover all parts. Now you can set the barrel aside.
11. Remove the fowled parts from the soaking jar. Clean the breech plug free of all fowling and tape. A toothbrush is very handy for this. I like to take them to the sink and under running water, put a little hand soap on the threads, then brush them clean of all fowling, and rinse the soap off them.
12. I then take some Q-tips and dip them in solvent. I clean the inside of the breech plug very carefully and the outside of any spots that might have fowling. Hold that up to the light and you should be able to see light through it.
13. Clean all other fowled parts using patches, solvent, Q-tips or anything else you might need.
14. Take the trigger and spray it with a solvent or cleaner of sorts. I like to do this outside. I use brake cleaner. After I have sprayed down the inside of the trigger, I like to take my air compressor and using a high pressure air nozzle, blow all the moisture and cleaner out of the trigger assembly. I then put a few drops of quality gun oil in the trigger mechanism.
15. Next I take some white Teflon plumbers tape and wrap the breech plug. I then take some anti seize and an small paint brush used for painting models, and paint into the threads over the tape a coating of anti seize. When I have all parts of that covered. I replace the breech plug back into the rifle barrel.
16. Next is put the trigger assembly back on.
17. Now you reassemble all the parts with a light coat of oil on them.
18. Replace the assembled barrel back in to the stock. Lock the barrel to the stock with the locking lug screw. Try and develop a feel for the amount of tension you put on the lug so you can do this each and every time.
19. Be sure to wipe the ramrod and the outside of the rifle off.
20. Your rifle is now protected and all you need do is swab the barrel with some alcohol before your next range trip to remove the oil in it.
what to lube it with? After I have the rifle clean, I protect the bore and metal parts with a quality gun oil. Leave the bore butter alone. Its a good conical lube. Other then that bore butter is a good patch lube.
breech plug care? After you have it clean, wrap it with teflon plumbers tape. I then like to apply a thin coat of Slick 50 One Greese. Or you can use breech plug greese, or anti seize.
basically A quick crash course on what products to use to care for it,and things to do or not to do in the field? For basic cleaning, dish soap water will clean most fouling, 409 spray cleaner, Windex, Simple Green, MAP, most any cleaner. There are commercial cleaners as well. Get a bottle of Windex from the dollar store and a lot of patchs. This will clean your bore free of fouling just fine. If you feel the bore might be contaminated with lead, copper, plastic or what fouling.. then get some commercial solution or some brake cleaner. It will remove all of that. Try not to get the commercial cleaners on any part of the stock.
looking for "kit" ideas that I can take with me in the field and have everything I would need to be and stay "ready" any help would be appreicated , and looking forward to taking it out this field kit.. breech plug wrench, a swiss army knife with an assortment of screw drivers and such, patches, small bottle of isopropyl alcohol, and some breech plug grease. That will normally get you through the day.
Inline muzzleloaders
This is the way I like to clean them. Many people have their own methods and I am not trying to claim one is right over the other. This is just the method I use…
1. Swab the barrel with a patch on a cleaning jag. I like to saturate the patch with a mixture of 50/50 isopropyl alcohol and car windshield washer fluid. Some other things to use are Windex, and even simple water with some dish soap mixed in. All this step does is attempt to remove as much of the fowling as possible before I break the rifle down.
2. Disassemble the rifle according to the manufacture’s instructions. Be sure to lay the parts out in a orderly manner. In other words, know how it goes back together.
3. Take the fowled breech plug and place that in a soaking solution of water with a little dish soap. Also any other fowled parts that can be placed in that solution should be allowed to soak.
4. With the rifle now broken down, I like to take the isopropyl alcohol and windshield solution and wet a patch. I then wipe out the stock in all the areas that are fowled or COULD BE fowled. Allow that to dry as you clean the rest of the rifle.
5. Using a breech plug bush, wrap a patch around it, and saturate it with Windex or solvent. It is important that you scrub the breech plug threads and get them very clean. Continue with patches until you can look in there and see that the threads of that breech are clean and free of tape, or grease.
6. With a saturated patch, pushing from the breech to the muzzle, begin to swab the barrel clean of fowling. Do not drag the dirty patch back over the clean breech plug threads. This might take a couple saturated patches.
7. Place a brass bore brush on the ramrod and dip that in solvent. Now brush the barrel a couple times to remove anything that might have accumulated in the barrel.
8. With another saturated patch with some solvent or solution, swab the bore of the rifle again in the same manner you did before.. Note the color and condition of the patch. If it is clean, then you need to take steps to dry the barrel.
9. With just dry patches, swab the barrel until you are certain the barrel is dry. Feel that patch and if you feel moisture on it, keep swabbing with more patches.
10. When your certain the barrel is clean and dry, and the threads of the breech plug are clean and dry, put a HIGH QUALITY GUN OIL on a patch and swab the barrel of the rifle. Be sure to work that oil in real good into the bore to cover all parts. Now you can set the barrel aside.
11. Remove the fowled parts from the soaking jar. Clean the breech plug free of all fowling and tape. A toothbrush is very handy for this. I like to take them to the sink and under running water, put a little hand soap on the threads, then brush them clean of all fowling, and rinse the soap off them.
12. I then take some Q-tips and dip them in solvent. I clean the inside of the breech plug very carefully and the outside of any spots that might have fowling. Hold that up to the light and you should be able to see light through it.
13. Clean all other fowled parts using patches, solvent, Q-tips or anything else you might need.
14. Take the trigger and spray it with a solvent or cleaner of sorts. I like to do this outside. I use brake cleaner. After I have sprayed down the inside of the trigger, I like to take my air compressor and using a high pressure air nozzle, blow all the moisture and cleaner out of the trigger assembly. I then put a few drops of quality gun oil in the trigger mechanism.
15. Next I take some white Teflon plumbers tape and wrap the breech plug. I then take some anti seize and an small paint brush used for painting models, and paint into the threads over the tape a coating of anti seize. When I have all parts of that covered. I replace the breech plug back into the rifle barrel.
16. Next is put the trigger assembly back on.
17. Now you reassemble all the parts with a light coat of oil on them.
18. Replace the assembled barrel back in to the stock. Lock the barrel to the stock with the locking lug screw. Try and develop a feel for the amount of tension you put on the lug so you can do this each and every time.
19. Be sure to wipe the ramrod and the outside of the rifle off.
20. Your rifle is now protected and all you need do is swab the barrel with some alcohol before your next range trip to remove the oil in it.
09-29-2009, 06:17 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 330
WOW, can't ask for a more detailed explanation than that. Take what Cayugad says to heart. There is a wealth of knowledge on this site. Enjoy your new gun and be sure to ask plenty of questions along the way. Oh yea, be careful. This muzzleloading stuff is addicting. Good luck.
