Looking for a 1:24 twist ??
07-25-2009, 04:51 AM
#11
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Green Bay wi
Posts: 454
I saw that, must be an old ad, they say they were just introduced ????
Did you see this one? Just wondering how they can put today"s date on it ?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/pdf_dat...558c0016b853a6
Did you see this one? Just wondering how they can put today"s date on it ?
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/pdf_dat...558c0016b853a6
07-25-2009, 07:38 AM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,092
Nope, had not seen that one.
Here is a post I made upon receiving mine (from 2005):
He (UPS driver) came about 3 as usual. I haven't shot it yet, but took it apart as best I could, cleaned it as best I could, and took some pics. First the sorry pics, then my observations.
(image no longer with us)
Above is a pic of the rifle with forearm removed along with fuzzy tools.
(image no longer...) This pic shows the very substantial barrel lug which provides a tight lockup. Pushing downward (hard) on the trigger guard lever allows the rifle to be opened. Takes some effort.
You can also see the extractor assembly, rotated to the right for plug removal. Shining spot would be the where the curvature for the primer is located. You can also see the protruding button of metal, encircled by a red band which means the action is ****ed.
(image ... ) This pic is of the rear barrel band which acts as the forearm mount. The band is free to swing to any position around the barrel and will move to and fro on the barrel.
(gone) The provided plug tool, works quite well.
(gone) Attempting to show here the depth of the recess in the plug face. It is DEEP. The actual flame channel in the plug might even be more shallow than the White #11 plug's. There isn't a whole lot of metal on the 209 end of that plug, even though the plug itself is quite long. Finding replacements for these very unique plugs could be a real problem!
(likewise) A view of the left side of the action with screws removed. The main hinge pin is threaded on either side and two screws are normally tightened against the action to keep the pin rigid. The other hole is for a stop screw which limits the amount of forward travel of the barrel assembly during opening.
(also gone) This last pic is nearly a waste, but it does show the ramrod, the ramrod handle, and the scope mount base which is included. I tried to position the scope base to show where it's approximate location will be when attached. It uses an odd single retainer at the rear of the mount instead of utilizing both of the two tapped holes that are already there. The forward end of the mount is secured in normal fashion with two screws. My specimen has no filler screws installed.
sorry for the poor quality of the pics, I was standing up on a chair and trying to keep my humongous, multiple shadows out of the images. Shakin' like a leaf while I was at it. I'm tellin' ya, my nerves is shot!!
More on observations.... first thing you might notice is the preservative that is applied to all metal parts. It's nearly a rust color and I at first thought the area surrounding the breech plug was badly corroded. All the metal wears a coating of the stuff and it is DIFFICULT to completely remove. I ran about 30 patches through the bore of the rifle and was still getting gunk out even though I could see no evidence of it looking through the bore.
The bore of the rifle looks very well done with neat, shallow rifling. I didn't count grooves, but think TB said 8. Sounds about right. There is no QLA or false muzzle section at the business end, instead there is a neatly done crown. I slugged the bore with a Lee REAL and measured .5006 at multiple locations on the bullet. My mic' could be a hair off but that's awfully close to a true .50 - crazy Italians.
The bluing may be okay, I'm not totally sure I'm actually seeing through the grime yet. At first I though it to have the appearance of a CVA finish (with the grime) but there IS bluing under there. The sections of the reciever where case hardening has been done are a dull finish - very little by way of the nice coloration you would see on a piece that has quality case hardening. I'm sure what is there is adequate but it's far from showcase quality.
The barrel bands - the two forward bands are rigid while the one that is used for forearm retention is free to move. Said elsewhere to be aluminum, they may in fact be that metal but seem more of a synthetic material to me. The two forward bands are held in place by clamping screws finished to match. The use of that rear band to retain the forearm seems a bit on the non-sensical side to me, but I guess it works. It's a little tricky to re-attach the forearm but I'm sure the process would get easier with practice. I can see there is some minor marring of the barrel bluing in the area where that band can move.
The forearm retaining screw as well as the two hinge pin screws are similar, being shorter in length than one might have expected. I marred up the hinge pin screws a small amount in removing them - thinking I was going to fully disassemble the rifle. That didn't happen. After several blows to the hinge pin with a hammer and punch, I decided the risk would not be worth the reward. Luckily the threaded holes were not damaged.
Breakdown is a real problem - at least breakdown beyond what is seen in these pics. There may be very little blowback ever make it's way into the rear part of the action (the tiny firing pin hole is the only entrance into what is otherwise a wall of metal) but it would be nice to be able to take the rifle apart. Perhaps a special tool was intended for that hinge pin's removal. Don't think we'll ever know. And the manual doesn't help since it was written for the original hammered design, not the current model.
An odd note from the manual - load requirements dictate no more than 150 grains of BP maximum, but the oddity is the specified minimum of at least 80 grains of BP. ??
The action is tough to open but may wear into a more easily used system. It won't be opened by accident, I can guarantee that. The automatic safety is probably a nice feature for us forgetful types, but a safe way to un**** the action would also be nice. If there is such a way I didn't discover it. The only way I found to un**** was to pull the trigger.
Which was heavy and at first a bit gritty. I would guess this rifle's trigger was about 5lbs initially with a slight bit of a click in movement before reaching the actual sear point. Again, this is an area where a comprehensive manual would be invaluable - any grit that gets in there is going to be difficult if not impossible to get out. The trigger has improved slightly since that first try so it may eventually get down into a more livable weight of pull. I do NOT like heavy triggers - that being anything much over 2 lbs.
The ramrod is nice enough but a real tight fit in those retainers and there is a hole in the front of the forearm instead of the normally seen underbarrel channel. That rod must line up precisely with that hole and it does but the fit of those retainers is far too tight. Again, possilbe wear in from use may correct the tightness but you would then be left with the very good chance of smashing the finish on the forend around that hole. Poorly designed IMHO - I see no reason for the clamping retainers, the method of forearm mounting, or that small hole in the front of the forearm. Standard thimbles and an underbarrel channel would have not only worked better but would have given the rifle a much more streamlined appearance.
Speaking of wood finish. It's a thin dip. Looks pretty neat and I guess it will until it takes a gouge or a good rap. There is a small metal (or synthetic) piece that fits to the rear of the wood forearm via two screws. The finish is applied over the whole assembly, yet another place for a problem to develop. The very ends of that smaller piece already had chips in the finish - but a touch up with a black magic marker matches pretty well.
The only thing left to mention was the alignment of my recoil pad. It had either been installed carelessly or somehow slipped during transit. The pad was easily moved by loosening the two retaining screws and slid back into place - actually a pretty decent fit once that was done. Can't figure out the hump on the upper part of the pad though - should be a slope downward if anything other than straight with the stock lines.
Ah tink dat'zit fer now.
Here is a post I made upon receiving mine (from 2005):
He (UPS driver) came about 3 as usual. I haven't shot it yet, but took it apart as best I could, cleaned it as best I could, and took some pics. First the sorry pics, then my observations.
(image no longer with us)
Above is a pic of the rifle with forearm removed along with fuzzy tools.
(image no longer...) This pic shows the very substantial barrel lug which provides a tight lockup. Pushing downward (hard) on the trigger guard lever allows the rifle to be opened. Takes some effort.
You can also see the extractor assembly, rotated to the right for plug removal. Shining spot would be the where the curvature for the primer is located. You can also see the protruding button of metal, encircled by a red band which means the action is ****ed.
(image ... ) This pic is of the rear barrel band which acts as the forearm mount. The band is free to swing to any position around the barrel and will move to and fro on the barrel.
(gone) The provided plug tool, works quite well.
(gone) Attempting to show here the depth of the recess in the plug face. It is DEEP. The actual flame channel in the plug might even be more shallow than the White #11 plug's. There isn't a whole lot of metal on the 209 end of that plug, even though the plug itself is quite long. Finding replacements for these very unique plugs could be a real problem!
(likewise) A view of the left side of the action with screws removed. The main hinge pin is threaded on either side and two screws are normally tightened against the action to keep the pin rigid. The other hole is for a stop screw which limits the amount of forward travel of the barrel assembly during opening.
(also gone) This last pic is nearly a waste, but it does show the ramrod, the ramrod handle, and the scope mount base which is included. I tried to position the scope base to show where it's approximate location will be when attached. It uses an odd single retainer at the rear of the mount instead of utilizing both of the two tapped holes that are already there. The forward end of the mount is secured in normal fashion with two screws. My specimen has no filler screws installed.
sorry for the poor quality of the pics, I was standing up on a chair and trying to keep my humongous, multiple shadows out of the images. Shakin' like a leaf while I was at it. I'm tellin' ya, my nerves is shot!!
More on observations.... first thing you might notice is the preservative that is applied to all metal parts. It's nearly a rust color and I at first thought the area surrounding the breech plug was badly corroded. All the metal wears a coating of the stuff and it is DIFFICULT to completely remove. I ran about 30 patches through the bore of the rifle and was still getting gunk out even though I could see no evidence of it looking through the bore.
The bore of the rifle looks very well done with neat, shallow rifling. I didn't count grooves, but think TB said 8. Sounds about right. There is no QLA or false muzzle section at the business end, instead there is a neatly done crown. I slugged the bore with a Lee REAL and measured .5006 at multiple locations on the bullet. My mic' could be a hair off but that's awfully close to a true .50 - crazy Italians.
The bluing may be okay, I'm not totally sure I'm actually seeing through the grime yet. At first I though it to have the appearance of a CVA finish (with the grime) but there IS bluing under there.
The sections of the reciever where case hardening has been done are a dull finish - very little by way of the nice coloration you would see on a piece that has quality case hardening. I'm sure what is there is adequate but it's far from showcase quality.The barrel bands - the two forward bands are rigid while the one that is used for forearm retention is free to move. Said elsewhere to be aluminum, they may in fact be that metal but seem more of a synthetic material to me. The two forward bands are held in place by clamping screws finished to match. The use of that rear band to retain the forearm seems a bit on the non-sensical side to me, but I guess it works. It's a little tricky to re-attach the forearm but I'm sure the process would get easier with practice. I can see there is some minor marring of the barrel bluing in the area where that band can move.
The forearm retaining screw as well as the two hinge pin screws are similar, being shorter in length than one might have expected. I marred up the hinge pin screws a small amount in removing them - thinking I was going to fully disassemble the rifle. That didn't happen. After several blows to the hinge pin with a hammer and punch, I decided the risk would not be worth the reward. Luckily the threaded holes were not damaged.
Breakdown is a real problem - at least breakdown beyond what is seen in these pics. There may be very little blowback ever make it's way into the rear part of the action (the tiny firing pin hole is the only entrance into what is otherwise a wall of metal) but it would be nice to be able to take the rifle apart. Perhaps a special tool was intended for that hinge pin's removal. Don't think we'll ever know. And the manual doesn't help since it was written for the original hammered design, not the current model.
An odd note from the manual - load requirements dictate no more than 150 grains of BP maximum, but the oddity is the specified minimum of at least 80 grains of BP. ??
The action is tough to open but may wear into a more easily used system. It won't be opened by accident, I can guarantee that. The automatic safety is probably a nice feature for us forgetful types, but a safe way to un**** the action would also be nice. If there is such a way I didn't discover it. The only way I found to un**** was to pull the trigger.
Which was heavy and at first a bit gritty. I would guess this rifle's trigger was about 5lbs initially with a slight bit of a click in movement before reaching the actual sear point. Again, this is an area where a comprehensive manual would be invaluable - any grit that gets in there is going to be difficult if not impossible to get out. The trigger has improved slightly since that first try so it may eventually get down into a more livable weight of pull. I do NOT like heavy triggers - that being anything much over 2 lbs.
The ramrod is nice enough but a real tight fit in those retainers and there is a hole in the front of the forearm instead of the normally seen underbarrel channel. That rod must line up precisely with that hole and it does but the fit of those retainers is far too tight. Again, possilbe wear in from use may correct the tightness but you would then be left with the very good chance of smashing the finish on the forend around that hole. Poorly designed IMHO - I see no reason for the clamping retainers, the method of forearm mounting, or that small hole in the front of the forearm. Standard thimbles and an underbarrel channel would have not only worked better but would have given the rifle a much more streamlined appearance.
Speaking of wood finish. It's a thin dip. Looks pretty neat and I guess it will until it takes a gouge or a good rap. There is a small metal (or synthetic) piece that fits to the rear of the wood forearm via two screws. The finish is applied over the whole assembly, yet another place for a problem to develop. The very ends of that smaller piece already had chips in the finish - but a touch up with a black magic marker matches pretty well.
The only thing left to mention was the alignment of my recoil pad. It had either been installed carelessly or somehow slipped during transit. The pad was easily moved by loosening the two retaining screws and slid back into place - actually a pretty decent fit once that was done. Can't figure out the hump on the upper part of the pad though - should be a slope downward if anything other than straight with the stock lines.
Ah tink dat'zit fer now.
