First Casting Session
#1
Well, Today was my first casiting session. I was casting balls for my GM 62cal smoothbore. For lead I was using old fishing sinkers.
I dont think I did too bad at all for my first time. Some of the balls were a little wrinkley but not bad. Others were almost perfect. I did not get any that I thought were totally perfect but for the most part they were not bad.
Anyone else get wrinkles? How do you solve that?
Also, when the lead was sitting in the pot it would always have a blue film on top. Is that bad?
Thanks
I dont think I did too bad at all for my first time. Some of the balls were a little wrinkley but not bad. Others were almost perfect. I did not get any that I thought were totally perfect but for the most part they were not bad.
Anyone else get wrinkles? How do you solve that?
Also, when the lead was sitting in the pot it would always have a blue film on top. Is that bad?
Thanks
#2
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
Wrinkles are an indication that either the mould or the lead is not hot enough. Usually, the first half dozen balls from a cold mold are wrinkled. The other possibility is oil in the mold cavity.
#3
I weighed the balls that came with my barrel from the mold I was using and three of them weigh 324gn and the other threeweigh 344gn.
The balls I casted today weigh about 308-310gn. Again, these were from lead fishing sinkers.
Any explanations?
The balls I casted today weigh about 308-310gn. Again, these were from lead fishing sinkers.
Any explanations?
#4
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
If thefishing sinker lead is giving youmuch lighter balls from the same mold that threw the heavier ones, it's probablynot pure lead. Those sinkers may have been cast from wheel weights. An alloy in the lead could account for that blue sheen you were seeing also. Idon't think a hard ball will be any problem in a smooth bore. It's how they shoot for you that counts. You sure don't need to worry about expansion with a .62.
#5
Sharpshooter - Semi is right. I usually cast the first dozen or so and put them right back into the pot. Keep the lead hot. Once I start getting bullets without wrinkles, I cast as fast as I can.
I used to smoke the mould cavity so the bullets/balls wouldn't stick but I found an even better trick. I put a piece of bees wax about 1/2" square in the molten lead and after the smoke clears, I scrape off the black residue and start casting. The bullets do not stick to the mould. I've heard that others use PAM but I haven't tried that yet.
As for the weight of the balls being lighter, Semi was right again, your sinkers were probably not pure lead. And for a smoothbore, it probably won't be a problem.
I used to smoke the mould cavity so the bullets/balls wouldn't stick but I found an even better trick. I put a piece of bees wax about 1/2" square in the molten lead and after the smoke clears, I scrape off the black residue and start casting. The bullets do not stick to the mould. I've heard that others use PAM but I haven't tried that yet.
As for the weight of the balls being lighter, Semi was right again, your sinkers were probably not pure lead. And for a smoothbore, it probably won't be a problem.
#6
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,192
Likes: 0
From: Rivesville, WV
Blue is probably Babbet in your alloy.
Sinkers are not a very consistent alloy(IMO). I wouldget some different alloy. A lot of shooter's like pure lead, however I personally believe that good clean WW will do every bit as good of a job. Especially in a round ball because you are using a patch.
The alloy could be causing the wrinkle. Or the mold may not be hot enough. Tom.
Sinkers are not a very consistent alloy(IMO). I wouldget some different alloy. A lot of shooter's like pure lead, however I personally believe that good clean WW will do every bit as good of a job. Especially in a round ball because you are using a patch.
The alloy could be causing the wrinkle. Or the mold may not be hot enough. Tom.
#7
When you have your lead in the pot melted, flux it good with bees wax and a long nose lighter then scrap the slag off it. Dip the corner of that LEE mold into the molten lead. When you can pick that mold out of the lead, tap the handle with a wooden stick and all the lead falls off the mold back into the pot, the lead is hot enough.
Wrinkles are the lead is not hot or the mold is too cold. So put more heat to it. Glad the mold is working for you. I'd sure hate to have a lead ball that big flying at me.
Wrinkles are the lead is not hot or the mold is too cold. So put more heat to it. Glad the mold is working for you. I'd sure hate to have a lead ball that big flying at me.
#8
A friend of mine has offered me all the wheel weights I want. If you guys dont think it will matter much I might try them. Will they be soft enough to use in my 58cal when I get a mold for it? I have heard some guys say they are plenty soft and others say they are too hard. I dont know. I am sure they will still expand. If I can find lead pipe Iwould ratheruse that.
#9
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,918
Likes: 1
From: River Ridge, LA (Suburb of New Orleans)
The simple answer is - try them. It won't cost anything to try and is likely to work fine.
Grab about twenty pounds of wheel weights, melt them down (themetal clips and dirt will float to the top of the pot),clean the crud off (I use a large aluminum spoon to scrape and scoop off the dross- works great), flux it the way Cayugad said, cast a bunch of balls, and see how they shoot for you with a good tight patch. Who cares about expansion with a .58.
Grab about twenty pounds of wheel weights, melt them down (themetal clips and dirt will float to the top of the pot),clean the crud off (I use a large aluminum spoon to scrape and scoop off the dross- works great), flux it the way Cayugad said, cast a bunch of balls, and see how they shoot for you with a good tight patch. Who cares about expansion with a .58.




