It worked, and i'm ready.
03-28-2009, 05:02 PM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 3,869
RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
ORIGINAL: Semisane
Good question Lee. I've never noticed a plastic build up in any of my barrels. After Grouse's earlier post I double checked the bore of my .45 LRH barrel because I recently shot a lot of sabots through it with some pretty hot loads. I even tried a tight patch very wet with carburetor cleaner and got nothing out of the barrel, though I never use a brush in my ML barrels. I wonder if a brush would find some plastic?
Good question Lee. I've never noticed a plastic build up in any of my barrels. After Grouse's earlier post I double checked the bore of my .45 LRH barrel because I recently shot a lot of sabots through it with some pretty hot loads. I even tried a tight patch very wet with carburetor cleaner and got nothing out of the barrel, though I never use a brush in my ML barrels. I wonder if a brush would find some plastic?
03-28-2009, 06:03 PM
#12
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
Semi
A brush will certainly get some of it - if it is somewhat loose - but the worst part of it is usually blown and tucked in behind the lands on the breech side and normally closer to the breech than the muzzle. The biggest cause of plastic fouling is heat melting-working- on the cup of the sabot. Then if the sabot starts jumping lands again it leaves plastic as it jumps by the lands.
Most of the ML cleaners now have some sort plastic solvent in them, most centerfire cleaners do not unless you are using a shotgun wad cleaner, and if you do your routine maintenance maintenance with one of these plastic solvents you are probably staying on top of the problem. In the worst case - the solvent will loosen the plastic to the point the brush may be able to grab it.
I suggested the boiling treatment as it gets out all of the fouling including plastic in one easy step. The heat of the water will cause the barrel to expand causes the plastic to stretch loosen and release its hold on the metal and the flakes litterally fall out, with the action of a bore mop.
I am not sure that C Cleaner will get the plastic in one treatment esecially the really tough stuff, but again a lot of us are not really getting that build up - due to light loads and our own personal cleaning procedures.
I personally prefer not to use a bronze or brass bore brush, I will use a fiber brush on occasion but even then not very often or as it is needed.
Semi, How does this go along with your thoughts
A brush will certainly get some of it - if it is somewhat loose - but the worst part of it is usually blown and tucked in behind the lands on the breech side and normally closer to the breech than the muzzle. The biggest cause of plastic fouling is heat melting-working- on the cup of the sabot. Then if the sabot starts jumping lands again it leaves plastic as it jumps by the lands.
Most of the ML cleaners now have some sort plastic solvent in them, most centerfire cleaners do not unless you are using a shotgun wad cleaner, and if you do your routine maintenance maintenance with one of these plastic solvents you are probably staying on top of the problem. In the worst case - the solvent will loosen the plastic to the point the brush may be able to grab it.
I suggested the boiling treatment as it gets out all of the fouling including plastic in one easy step. The heat of the water will cause the barrel to expand causes the plastic to stretch loosen and release its hold on the metal and the flakes litterally fall out, with the action of a bore mop.
I am not sure that C Cleaner will get the plastic in one treatment esecially the really tough stuff, but again a lot of us are not really getting that build up - due to light loads and our own personal cleaning procedures.
I personally prefer not to use a bronze or brass bore brush, I will use a fiber brush on occasion but even then not very often or as it is needed.
Semi, How does this go along with your thoughts
03-28-2009, 06:54 PM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saxonburg Pa
Posts: 3,925
RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
ORIGINAL: lemoyne
I have a question, can any one explaine why some people have plasticstick to there barrels and some not? I shoot as heavy a load as any one I know and have never had the problem yet. It and crud ring seem to borther some of us and not others. Lee
I have a question, can any one explaine why some people have plasticstick to there barrels and some not? I shoot as heavy a load as any one I know and have never had the problem yet. It and crud ring seem to borther some of us and not others. Lee
03-29-2009, 06:14 AM
#14
Fork Horn
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kitchener Ontario
Posts: 245
RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
I work for a plastic distributor and we sell a lot of polyethylene which is what the sabots are made of. Great stuff, slicker than snot, but it melts if there is enough friction and gums up our saw blades. we have found nothing that actually dissolves it. Wish there was 'cause we could use that as a glue to weld pieces together. Lacquer thinner seems to loosen the stuff off of the saw blades so we can brush/peel it off. The best you can hope for is to soften it and boiling water is cheaper and less explosive than thinners.
03-29-2009, 08:04 AM
#16
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saxonburg Pa
Posts: 3,925
RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
ORIGINAL: gearheart
The best you can hope for is to soften it and boiling water is cheaper and less explosive than thinners.
The best you can hope for is to soften it and boiling water is cheaper and less explosive than thinners.
