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RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
I have 3ea Stainless Steel Disc Elites and I always use a bronze Bore brush for cleaning. Most of the time I just use RemOil as the solvent.
Once a year I will use Hoppes with copper solvent. Can't see how it has damaged anything, and my bores are spotless. |
RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
i did not know they made different color/grades of the SB pads.
i use green ones on dishes and after about 3 weeks, they are ready for my bore.;) |
RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
ORIGINAL: LaneNebraska I have 3ea Stainless Steel Disc Elites and I always use a bronze Bore brush for cleaning. Most of the time I just use RemOil as the solvent. Once a year I will use Hoppes with copper solvent. Can't see how it has damaged anything, and my bores are spotless. if i use SB pad, i do it about 20/30 times. i really dont use my brushs anymore ,tight fitting SB pad works fine for me |
RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
yep, thems the one's I use. But I never tried them on the bore, just used em on the breechplugs, the ends where the fowling occures. BP
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RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
Breechplug
Here is the color break down on industrial Scotch Brite pads.... These are the ones I used in the cabinet business... The household ones are color coded also but I do not know their codes... Scotch Brite Industrial Hand Pads (6" x 9") Scotch-Brite® Heavy Duty Hand Pad— Most durable and aggressive pad for quick stock removal. (Tan color) Scotch Brite Blending Pads - Slightly finer abrasive than the heavy duty pad. Excellent for removing scratches on metal, wood, or synthetic surfaces. (Gray color) Scotch-Brite General Purpose Hand Pad—This is the most popular Scotch Brite abrasive because it is coarse enough for cleaning and finishing but fine enough to produce good surface finishes. (Maroon color) Scotch-Brite® Ultra-Fine Hand Pad— Fine textured for ultra-fine finishing or metal, wood, plastics, and composites. (Light Gray color) Scotch-Brite Light Duty Hand Pad - A very mild abrasive for gentle, yet through cleaning. Commonly used with liquid detergent. (White color  |
RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
Mike, where do you come up with all this stuff? I thought there was just 1 scotch-brite pad! There ya go, you learn something new everyday! BP
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RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
ones we get are GREEN and are real rough to start using.
i very seldom use my bore brush anymore ,i useSB pad . like said, if you get a .45 cal jag in .50 cal, you can wrap the USED pad around it. i use my PATCH REMOVER and poke it on it but i think the smaller jag is BETTER way to use it because you can scrub HARDER that way. |
RE: Do I need a Brass Brush For Cleanung?
ORIGINAL: sabotloader cayugad But I do use a bore brush. Normally only when I am sure there is a fouling in the bore that needs to come out or for their annual cleaning. Twice a year I clean a bore with a brush and strong solvent to make sure there is nothing lurking in there. Often times I will just JB Bore Paste and a pad if the patches coming up are that extra dirty black. Scotch Bright pads come in different colors to reflect their grit. When I was building and applying a hot lacquer finish to cabinets I pruchased Maroon pads and White pads. The Maroon being more couse than White. I turn all of my breech plugs in a Maroon pad - this pad will remove any burs on the threads plus it will dull the threads to a certain degree. For me this is an important step to using teflon tape effectively. The tape should not be cut by threading. I have used Maroon SB on some really bad barrels to hlep smooth,clean, and polish- but most often when I use a SB pad in the bore I use a White pad - it is less course than the Maroon pad. I do not incurr as much nasty fouling as other as I shoot very lead conicals as compared to someone like Dave. I shoot T7 so powder fouling is really not a problem as regular windex will completely dissolve T7. Plastic fouling is a forgotten problem for me at this time, the new materials and the self lubricating process of the modern sabot have reduced that to a minimum. The hardest material to clean from a bore (for just me) is the material that is heated and pressured into the pores of the bore or caught behind the lands in the grooves. This material can be removed but it does require more patience allowing a bore solvent to work. I continue to use the term 'leaching' (have no idea if that is the correct term) but the solvent must be given time to leach the ugly stuff out of the difficult areas in the bore. Getting 'black' patches from a bore after running a bronze/brass brush is not always an indicator of a dirty barrel. In my experiance more often it is an indication of the cleanliness of the brush. when i talk its only about DIRTY flintlock using 2f/3f. so,cleaning with brush vrs pad will be different for in-line as you said, they dont get as DIRTY as the GEOX does. i really like daves idea on SB used pads in my bore. but i did not know there was different grades. most likely the WHITE one may be the grade that the GREEN one gets after you use it on dishes. GREEN is too rough, i feel to use new in bore. |
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