vadeer

I had the same situation as spaniel, except is was with a CVA Optima Pro. I stopped using T7.

cayugad

Bore Butter really puzzled me for a while and it was all I used to use. I knew the rifle bore was clean before I swabbed it out with bore butter. And I shoot a lot. None of my rifles really go into storage for more then a couple weeks unless they are center fire.

Anyway, I would bring out a bore butter gun and swab the barrel first to remove any extra bore butter and I almost always got a tobacco stain colored patch out of it. I asked a gun smith about it once, and he had no idea but said, maybe the bore butter changes colors as it ages.. Sounded reasonable.

Then as time went, and more and more bore butter was used, my accuracy began to drop off. In fact I was at a deer camp and shot at a little buck not more then 40 yards away. I had that deer dead to rights. He dropped like a rock, then jumped up and took off. As he ran off, I could see his side, and he was hit low and back. And I knew I was not aiming there.

So I walked back to camp a little upset. And to get help for the long track job. An old friend of mine was at camp and he'd shot muzzleloaders since he was a kid. I told him what happened. First thing he asked me was, do you use bore butter? I told him I did, so he had me take a pop at a target we had at camp and it was very low and left.

He then told me we had to clean my rifle. So I water bathed it and then he handed me a bore brush and some solvent (which I used to think was a no no). I scrubbed the rifle clean. Then we boiled the barrel with water. It looked like ear wax floating out of that barrel. He then had me oil the bore, and then alcohol it back out. The next shot at the target was dead center. He then told me that the tobacco stain patches were actually rusted water in the bore butter. And that bore butter builds up in bores and basically turns your rifle into a smooth bore. Hence the accuracy disappears. So it has to be cleaned out.

I never used it again since that day. We walked that buck down. It took me two miles and we recovered him about 10:00 pm. We wereunarmed (illegal to carry guns at night). He was still very much alive. But he was hurt pretty bad and had kind of went a little stiff (he was dying). So I took care of him. Then we had to drag him out of a swamp. I was worried the coyotes would have had him before morning.

I will be the last person to talk someone out of using something they believe in. It just will not go back in my rifles as something to protect it with.

SWThomas

I have heard nothing but bad things about Bore Butter. I will never use it.

Breechplug

WOW, I have the same brown patches using BB just after a few minutes of sitting in the barreal. Most times after I clean the barrel I'll swab with BB, the run a dry patch, swab with BB, to make sure I coated it good, then swab with a dry patch and BB again. And during the dry patches I noticed they were brown. I figured I had'nt cleaned the barrel good enough, so back to cleaning. I inspected the barrel after cleaning and it was mirror clean. So back to the BB, and brown again after a patch or two. I jsu figured it was a chemical reaction to the metal and BB and nothing to worry about. But now you got me worrying and If I have to change what Im using I will. I did order 2 cans of the MontanaX and there on the way. I'll use that and see what happens. What did you coat your barreal with after the BB and befor the montanaX? Ron

cayugad

I used a lot of different oils. I went through a WD40 phase and that stuff worked real good. Then I got hooked on Rem Oil for a long time. Then a couple years back a poster told me about Birchwood Casey Sheath and I started using that. That has to be my all time favorite. BUT I keep Sheath, Rem Oil, Breakfree CLP, and Kroll Oil, Smith & Wesson bore treatment, and WD 40. I also got the Montana X-treme because of Sabotloader. So I like to try a lot of different things. Some rifles are protected with one thing and some with others. I guess that the advantage of have a few dozen rifles to play with.

Breechplug

O.K., BB is on the sideburnner now, I can always use what I have for the outside of the barrels. I'll try the MX when it arrives. Again, I have been told not to use petroleum based oils in the barrels of ML's, am I misinformed? When do you use the oil in the barrel, after cleaning of course, but do you swab the bore dry befor reloading? It has never interfeared with your powder?

Breechplug

Where did you get the Birchwood Casey Sheath? I'l get some, I like to try new things. Also do you use (Dry-Lube) on your trigger Mechs.? Any advice on this one. I use the Moly Lube Dry Aerosol.......

Underclocked

A light coating of a good preservative such as Breakfree CLP, RemOil, Eezox,Sheath, or..... WD-40. Swab the oils out with a couple of alcohol patches followed by a couple of dry patches. Store the breechplug out of the rifle if feasible. Install after removing the preservative.

Breechplug

Thank's for the tip, I want to treat my 2 new ACCURA's with the best and utmost care. Also, I should hear from Mark on the second ACCURA with the Barrel-Lug outcome soon, I'll let you know. Oh, I forgot to tell you,,,,after ordering My Wife the second ACCURA, she does'nt want it!!!! She saw that they could be had in .45 so that's what she wants now. I tried to talk her out of it, but you know women. I guess it will be fine for her as she's only 110lbs and usually only shoots out to 80yds. It's just now Im gonna have to get a bunch of 45. stuff. Ya got-to-keep them wifes happy. Next she'll want a new Bow!

sabotloader

Breechplug

It is widely believed that you should not use oil in the bore of a ML IF you are shooting real black powder... mixing an oil with real BP residue makes a black sticky tar substance...

If you treat your bore with an oil and you are going to shoot real BP - then prior to shooting clean the barrel out with 91% alcohol - that will remeove the majority of the oil in the bore.

MX is a petroleum product so it might foul your bore if you are shooting real BP. Actually I would kinda like to know if it does. There is a lot of Glycol Ether in MX so it evaporates rapidly - I do not know if it would mix with shooting real BP or not.

With the MX and with the other product I used Slip 2000 (a synthetic oil) I would run a dry patch before shooting (both sides) Shoot a couple of caps or primers - then patch with a windex patch and start shooting. With MX I am just running the dry patch shooting the caps/primers - run the dry patch again and start shooting. Then I continue to use that same dry, but dirty, patch the rest of the shoot or as long as it lasts before tearing and/or wearing out. With MX you really do not need a damp patch - just a hint of moisture will work very well.

Not sure if you mean because of oil or because of moisture... I think I may have answered the oil question above and as far as moist patch - with MX moist is more wet than needed.

Again I am shooting and experimenting with T7 powder