just got off with phone with deer creek. (the compeny that cva sold there sidelock stuff to).

I was looking for a new booster/drum for my cva hawkins. they told me they only sale them installed in the barrel.

the barrel cost $85 plus shipping for either 50 or 54cal.

if I can talk jess and see if she will let me order one.

which would it be. 50 or 54

50cal OR Just sale it and find something better

Did you find out the twist rates for the .50 and .54 barrels? Personally, I'd go with the .54if it's a slow twist barrel, and just shoot patched balls. I don't think I would want a fast twist .54 because of the lack of bullet selection as compared to a .50.

If you want to shoot sabots and/or conicals, the .50 is the obvious choice.

Get online to Dixie Gun Works...

I replaced a drum for a buddy 10-12 years ago, I remember it was a CVA in .54 caliber because I also did the load work up for him and installed a new front sight because some idiot had filed the one on it too short...

If I remember correctly the threads were 1/4 inch coarse...That's what you need to know, find out what threads fit, order a new one and install...Once you get it, you may have to file the threads a tad to get it to line up with the hammer...

Now...If you just want a new barrel...I'd go with a .54 round ball twist (1-66 or 1-72)...Then order a .530 Rapine bag mold and you never have to buy ammo again...A .530 ball with 80grs Goex FFF is deadly on deer...

50 if your gonna shot sabots (I do in my FL, Gold Dot 300g with Crushed rib sabot), 54 if your gonna shoot RB--heavier bullet better penetration. Chap

I have a drum I got from track of the wolf. about the same ones I saw on dixie gun works website.

as for the barrel. it is not has be as I thought.

I am going to ask for a 54cal barrel for christmas and not my swords this year. don't have all I have up as it is.

I was wanting an 54cal anyway.

1:48 twist.

54cal!!

That .50cal just needs some care and will be in action very soon Just got to get all that liquid wrench out of there!

The bore on his current 50 is perfect, hes just having a little trouble with the drum and the oil that keeps coming back after he cleans it out.

Carb/brake cleaner should take that out i would think.

If not, a little gas'Oline and a match would burn it out eh?

i had cva install a new one on my dads old cva. they roughed up the barrel in several spots pretty good including the muzzle. they use some kinda jig that bites into the barrel in a bad way. luckily it still shoots good . i found this after the fact. http://www.dixiegunworks.com/advance...mp;x=4&y=9

It sounds like the cone of the rifle is plugged. Are you sure the drum is aligned properly? I am sure it is.... Was the drum clear when you installed it? Some of them are packed with a packing grease so they do not rust, and that should have been cleaned out before installation. Also check your rifle nipple and make sure that is not plugged.


Can you blow air through the muzzle and hear it come out the other end? If not, the bolster or drum is plugged with something.

If you have access to an air compressor, put on an attachment I use for spraying saw dust off wood projectile. It is just a very fine nozzle. I take the nipple out of the drum/bolster and put that fine nozzle end in there and then shoot forced air through the barrel. This will normally blow out the obstructions. If you are able to do that, then the bolster/drum is clear. Now you need to be sure to clean all the oil out of it. Take some boiling water and laundry soap that removes grease. Use a coffee can or something similar. Add a small amount of the laundry soap (I use liquid Tide) and then the boiling water. WEAR SOME LEATHER GLOVES. And then start working wet patches up and down the barrel. The idea is to pump out all the grease, packing compounds, etc from that barrel and drum. When you can watch the water shoot through the drum then it is clear.

After you have all the gunk out of the barrel and the patches are clean, set that barrel outside, and pour more boiling water through it. Fill it a couple times and let is run out the nipple port. STILL WEARING THE GLOVES, grab the barrel and dry patch it. You should be hearing air coming through the drum. Now run a oil patch through the barrel and work it good. Then set the barrel off to the side to cool. As it cools, the barrel will draw all the oil into the pores of the metal and protect it.

After that the barrel should be ready to shoot. Swab the barrel with alcohol before you shoot. Then some dry patches. With a dry patch down in the breech, pop a #11 cap, and pull the patch. Can you see black burn marks on it? If not, put another patch down there and do the same thing. Until you get a patch with a good burn mark on it. That tells you that the fire from the cap is getting through the nipple, through the drum, and into the breech where the powder charge would sit.

I like what hair I have left[8D]

that is the same drum I have.