Hey Guys, what grain size R.E.A.L bullet would you recommend out of a 50 cal 1 in 28 twist barrel. and I also have a 45 cal withe the same 1 in 28 twist. I would like to buy R.E.A.L Molds for both the 50 and 45. but don't know if I should go with heavy bullets or light ones. Thanks Steve

I think you will find that REAL bullets don't pattern that well with a 1-28 twist....
That is more of a twist for saboted bullets...REAL bullets were designed to give the advantages of conicals in a slow twist round ball gun...

Steve= I have the same mold in 50 cal. They seem to shoot
pretty good out of my Lyman rifle with the 1 in 28 twist..
I think with some load testing you will be alright with this
bullet.I make mine from straight lead,I add no tin and use
the bottom pour Lee 20# electric melting pot..Good luck.John

I cast lots of 44 bulets to use in sabots. I use a 300 gr 429 and a 240 gr 429 in the green sabots very inexpensive and shoot very well.

I use the 250 Grain REAL with 60 Grains of 3F pushing it and Deer will only run about 20 yards with a chest shot. Hit them in the chest and you have meat. The flat nose on the REAL gives good penetration and expansion. They usually don't penetrate the opposite side so you get your lead back to reuse. Weighing the slug after a hit is usually 2-5 grains less than cast.I shoot .45 and .50 with the same load in two seperate rifles. The .50 REAL is a little shorter in length. I quit using sabots or Powerpoints when I started using these and the price is very right not like a dollar a shot. Be sure to grease the slug. I use patch lube from CVA.
Rock Lock

A general rule of thumb is thata longer bullet needs a fastertwist to stabalize it.
The longer (heavier) REAL should be the best. I've tried only the 250 gr REAL in my new 1:28 GM-LRH barrel and accuracy was fair. I plan to try the 320 gr REAL next trip to the range, and hopefully it will be better.