barrel pitting, what to do??
#11
RE: barrel pitting, what to do??
Brad
Correct neither of them have the metal in them and a lot of people use them for BP grease.
I have just gone away from grease myself because in my feeble mind I still remember a bit of staining (baked grease into and on the bore) which was not a realy problem, but I also do not like the dealing with the goo or the posibliltiy of contaminating some powder. There are a lot of folks out there being very successful with BP grease.
Correct neither of them have the metal in them and a lot of people use them for BP grease.
I have just gone away from grease myself because in my feeble mind I still remember a bit of staining (baked grease into and on the bore) which was not a realy problem, but I also do not like the dealing with the goo or the posibliltiy of contaminating some powder. There are a lot of folks out there being very successful with BP grease.
#12
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 119
RE: barrel pitting, what to do??
i dont think that it is stains, it really looks like piting. I tried taking pictures but you can imagine how well that worked. would most gunsmiths have an idea on something like this, id imagine they would, or would you recommend me trying something first??
#13
RE: barrel pitting, what to do??
brad_vanderband1
The first thing I would try would be some JB Bore Paste, and from there, if necessary more a bore paste with a very fine grit. But remembering what you take off you can not replace...
Do some searching for "barrel lapping" you will a multiple ideas how to do it. I did fire lap a barrel on a Austin & Halleck several years ago and it worked great. All I did was shoot some lead conicals out of the barrel using a bore paste as the lubricant.
One other thought - your pitting probably will not effect the performance of the rifle as long as you clean very each time and lub the barrel...
Last thought which is probably the best... call TC tech people tell them what you have going on... they will probably have you send the gun in and they will do what is the best.. yep on a newer gun and since it is a TC that is where I would start first... no doubt...
The first thing I would try would be some JB Bore Paste, and from there, if necessary more a bore paste with a very fine grit. But remembering what you take off you can not replace...
Do some searching for "barrel lapping" you will a multiple ideas how to do it. I did fire lap a barrel on a Austin & Halleck several years ago and it worked great. All I did was shoot some lead conicals out of the barrel using a bore paste as the lubricant.
One other thought - your pitting probably will not effect the performance of the rifle as long as you clean very each time and lub the barrel...
Last thought which is probably the best... call TC tech people tell them what you have going on... they will probably have you send the gun in and they will do what is the best.. yep on a newer gun and since it is a TC that is where I would start first... no doubt...
#14
Fork Horn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 212
RE: barrel pitting, what to do??
Brad,
Sorry to hear about the pits! You should be able to tell if they are pits. Next gun show go and I'm sure you can find a dealer who has those dental picks made in India. There area bunch of differnt shapesand you will see one you can use to ride the bore and if it indeed is a pit it will stop and drop in. If its crud it will slide around it. What the others said is great. That area where the load is will not effect accuracy but you will have to keep on it to help prevent the spot from spreading. That pick I just mentioned is awesome for cleaning the threads inside the breech where the breech plug screws in. That final seating surface is a real pain @ times and that pick is sweet.
There are two ways to foul a barrel IF is is even necessary. ONE is to fire a squib load of the powder you are using but that load must be the same every time to get consistancy. Now that powder and bullet load should be shot out and cleanedTHAT day as now you just started the corrusion process upon ignition of the squib load. SECOND, If you must dirty your barrel WHY not just shoot one or two primers? They are not corrusive and that barrel fouling will NOT react to any powder sustitute to cause corrusion until you ignite the full load. I talked to hogdon about this and I have sold thousands of pounds of powder for the past 6 yrs. What I have said is per the factory. I have left my powder loads in my barrels from the beginning of the firearms regular season through the BP season in FL and NY in very wet conditions and have NEVER had a load not go off in a hunting situationor had a corrusion problem. I always use a finger cot, cut off fingers of a glove to go over the barrel every time I go out no matter if good or bad weather. Think about it, if you get moisture of any kind down the bore it now must be swabbed outand now you changed the impact point and have to fire the loadand start all over. Just more usless time stealing work.
I also am very very careful of whatI do w/ the rifle when loaded in cold conditions. I always put it in the thick case and allow a very slow warm up process unless I'm shooting the load out. This will prevent any condensation on the powder grainuals against the bore so you won't have wet powder. I'm sure you have heard all the bad stories about wet powder..
For anti seize I use the small tube of Super Lube. TC sells it as well as good fishing tackle stores. Best I have ever found.
Best of luck,
Steve
Sorry to hear about the pits! You should be able to tell if they are pits. Next gun show go and I'm sure you can find a dealer who has those dental picks made in India. There area bunch of differnt shapesand you will see one you can use to ride the bore and if it indeed is a pit it will stop and drop in. If its crud it will slide around it. What the others said is great. That area where the load is will not effect accuracy but you will have to keep on it to help prevent the spot from spreading. That pick I just mentioned is awesome for cleaning the threads inside the breech where the breech plug screws in. That final seating surface is a real pain @ times and that pick is sweet.
There are two ways to foul a barrel IF is is even necessary. ONE is to fire a squib load of the powder you are using but that load must be the same every time to get consistancy. Now that powder and bullet load should be shot out and cleanedTHAT day as now you just started the corrusion process upon ignition of the squib load. SECOND, If you must dirty your barrel WHY not just shoot one or two primers? They are not corrusive and that barrel fouling will NOT react to any powder sustitute to cause corrusion until you ignite the full load. I talked to hogdon about this and I have sold thousands of pounds of powder for the past 6 yrs. What I have said is per the factory. I have left my powder loads in my barrels from the beginning of the firearms regular season through the BP season in FL and NY in very wet conditions and have NEVER had a load not go off in a hunting situationor had a corrusion problem. I always use a finger cot, cut off fingers of a glove to go over the barrel every time I go out no matter if good or bad weather. Think about it, if you get moisture of any kind down the bore it now must be swabbed outand now you changed the impact point and have to fire the loadand start all over. Just more usless time stealing work.
I also am very very careful of whatI do w/ the rifle when loaded in cold conditions. I always put it in the thick case and allow a very slow warm up process unless I'm shooting the load out. This will prevent any condensation on the powder grainuals against the bore so you won't have wet powder. I'm sure you have heard all the bad stories about wet powder..
For anti seize I use the small tube of Super Lube. TC sells it as well as good fishing tackle stores. Best I have ever found.
Best of luck,
Steve