Greetings all. I was wondering what methods people use to reinstall their locks (perc, flint) in their stocks after removing the lockto be be cleaned?

Lately I have been needing to tap the lock with a hammer, using a piece of leather to protect the metal. I will tap the front, then the back, front, then back and so on.

I was thinking of buying a rubber mallet for this purpose. However before doing that, I was wondering if there is a better technique that is used.

My piece is a Traditions Shenandoah flinter.

Thank you for your suggestions,
~Robert

I have a small rubber mallet. I fot it at a bargin bin for $3.00 at a hardware store. I set the lock as well as possible then tap the thing LIGHTLYinto place. As it moves in, as soon as possible, I put steady tension tightening the lock set bolt that comes in from the other side. It helps to keep the lock from jumping back and fourth in the cut out.

I would : if it was my lock to resand a little in the wood channel were the lock sits before taping a lock out,the reason is if the lock plate is tight and taped or forced there good chance one day it will split a grain in the wood and start a split in the stock.I had this happen to a long time ago on a new englander stock ,I was trying to remove a tight tang and did appy a little force to the tange and did split the wood.
I have 3 flinters and all the locks sit tight but no need other then hand pressure to get the lock out of the stock

RobertSubnet

I do not know if it is right or wrong, but I have six percussion guns and none of them require tapping in or out, they just drop in place - insert screw and tighten to the proper tension...

Of my traditional rifles I have two... one flintlock a Lyman is tight. I hate to change anything because once in place no powder gets behind it. For instance I have a T/C flintlock that must be cleaned every time I shoot behind the lockbecause it fits that loose. I also have a traditions that I sure I could hand force it but instead choose to just tap it with the rubber mallet and it falls right into place.

Sounds like you might have moisture in the stock swelling the wood up. Try keeping it in a reduced humidity area for a while if you can.
If that does not eliminate the problem then you might want to strip the parts off the lock plate and blacken it with a candle or us gunsmith black and shave the high spots with a piece of broken glass this is slow but accurate. Lee

dave: I had the same problem with one of my locks,what is really happening is the powder when fired is getting under the frizzen area.
A fast fix is to apply a little glass bedding to the lock area were it meets the stock(under the frizzen powder pan) there is a ridge on the lock just above the coil spring and wre the frizzen screw is that the area were the burnt powder is getting under the lock.
J@B weld can be used not hard ,easy fix all you have to do is apply a small amount of expoy between the lock and wood,but remember to apply a coat of wax,or even pam cooking spray to all metal parts as a release agent,so once the expoy cures the lock will remove from the stock.Iam in n.c. would be glad in 2 weeks send you a few pictures when I get bach home were to apply the epoxy and all cleaning problem with the lock will be gone.

That sounds like a great idea Lonewolf. I would appreciate it. I have some JB Weld around the house. The one Thompson Center flintlock is really bad. You shoot it, you better pull that lock, because it is filthy behind it.

My Lyman that fits so tight, I have let that go for up to five shooting sessions and when I pull it, there really is not the need. My Thompson Center was the first Flintlock I bought and it kind of spooked me into pulling locks on all of them. If there is a way I can seal that up (real easy) I would be more then glad to take a look at it... thanks

These are some interesting ideas.

Cayugad: I picked up a rubber mallet last night at Home Depot and will give that a try.

Lonewolf: would you please post those pics. I would be interested in seeing them as well.

Lemoyne: I would have thought moisture as well. However I live in Phoenix, Arizona. Any drier and I'm likely to turn into beef jerky.

When I next pull the lock for cleaning, I will look for any high spots.

Sabotloader: who knows, maybe I just got lucky and got an extra tight fitting stock. Or like Lemoyne suggests, a lock with a high spot or two.

Thanks again guys.
~Robert

Robert, the mallet is not meant to pound that lock in to place as much as to tap it in as a unit with causing damage to the lock. I just need to hold my thumb over the one end of the lock near the frizzen and while pushing, give the other end a light tap and it slips right into place.