Lube and cleaner recipes
#21
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Yup, can't wait. I've been looking back at old posts, & see lots of discussion about Bbutter vs. oiling, etc.. A lot of options.
I bought the Scout for deer hunting; it's got a 1:20 twist rate. In a couple of old posts, there were references to the T/C Shockwave - 250gr. with 90 gr. Goex FFF being a good combination for this gun. Cayugad and Pittsburghunter: I sure would like to know your opinion on this. But, this post is supposed to be about "Lube and Cleaner recipes", so I'll start another post about the Shockwave, and hope you'll join in.
In the meantime, on this post: I do have some questions about making sure I use a cleaner that takes care of all fouling, including plastic. Assuming I'm gonna abandon the Bbutter, and go the petroleum/oil route, what are some good cleaners to use that'll easily take care of plastic and copper fouling?
I bought the Scout for deer hunting; it's got a 1:20 twist rate. In a couple of old posts, there were references to the T/C Shockwave - 250gr. with 90 gr. Goex FFF being a good combination for this gun. Cayugad and Pittsburghunter: I sure would like to know your opinion on this. But, this post is supposed to be about "Lube and Cleaner recipes", so I'll start another post about the Shockwave, and hope you'll join in.
In the meantime, on this post: I do have some questions about making sure I use a cleaner that takes care of all fouling, including plastic. Assuming I'm gonna abandon the Bbutter, and go the petroleum/oil route, what are some good cleaners to use that'll easily take care of plastic and copper fouling?
#22
I shoot a lot of plastic out of my inline rifles. Not as much as Sabotloader of course. But in all my shooting I have never really had a build up of plastic, copper, lead, etc.
A good bore solvent is Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber, Butch's Bore Solvent, or Hoppies. All of them will take the plastic out of the barrel and any other kind of fowling you can think of.
If you go the oil route, just simply swab the barrel with isopropyl alcohol before loading for the first time. Then a couple dry patches. That will remove any oil, or crud in the bore and make the rifle ready for loading. Also pop a cap or two through the nipple to make sure that the fire channel is nice and clean.
A good bore solvent is Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber, Butch's Bore Solvent, or Hoppies. All of them will take the plastic out of the barrel and any other kind of fowling you can think of.
If you go the oil route, just simply swab the barrel with isopropyl alcohol before loading for the first time. Then a couple dry patches. That will remove any oil, or crud in the bore and make the rifle ready for loading. Also pop a cap or two through the nipple to make sure that the fire channel is nice and clean.
#25
ORIGINAL: take1a
If I go the "oil" route, will I have to swab in between every shot at the range? With what?
If I go the "oil" route, will I have to swab in between every shot at the range? With what?
What to swab with is a good question. Talking to some Scout owners they advise that the Scout can be temperamental in terms of igniton, and especially on wet days. For this reason I would only swab with isopropyl alcohol. Alcohol will draw fowling out of the barrel, it will dry on its own or with a few dry follow up patches and alcohol will burn of course.
Swabbing correctly is the key. Dampen, not soak the patch. Work the barrel in short strokes, getting longer as you work down the barrel. Follow with a dry patch. And never push a dry patch down a fowled barrel.
#26
When I was at the range on thursday, I was swabbing between shots with the 50/50 and couldn't believe the gunk coming out.
One fella asked why I was doing that after every shot. I showed him a completely black patch, he said, "oh".
After I got home from the range, the cleanup was as enjoyable as the shooting IMO.
I used the Butch's Black powder bore shine and before long, she was squeaky clean. Following up with some RemOil and back in the safe she went. Took it out this evening to check and, no rust, so I must be doing it right.
cayugad, I really like the Moosemilk on the rb patches. The only problem I had was with the ticking. I think mines too thick and I don't have a micrometer to check. Thank goodness the stuff's only $3 a yard. Easily replaceable. I wonder if the red stripe ticking is thinner than the blue?
(from Walmart)
One fella asked why I was doing that after every shot. I showed him a completely black patch, he said, "oh".
After I got home from the range, the cleanup was as enjoyable as the shooting IMO.
I used the Butch's Black powder bore shine and before long, she was squeaky clean. Following up with some RemOil and back in the safe she went. Took it out this evening to check and, no rust, so I must be doing it right.
cayugad, I really like the Moosemilk on the rb patches. The only problem I had was with the ticking. I think mines too thick and I don't have a micrometer to check. Thank goodness the stuff's only $3 a yard. Easily replaceable. I wonder if the red stripe ticking is thinner than the blue?
(from Walmart)
#27
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
mcawful said, "I was swabbing between shots with the 50/50 and couldn't believe the gunk that was coming out."
Now that sounds like the kind of stuff I want to swab with between shots at the range. Mcawful, were you shooting plastic with sabots, conicals, or ball with patch? What is "50/50"?
Now that sounds like the kind of stuff I want to swab with between shots at the range. Mcawful, were you shooting plastic with sabots, conicals, or ball with patch? What is "50/50"?
#28
ORIGINAL: mcawful
When I was at the range on thursday, I was swabbing between shots with the 50/50 and couldn't believe the gunk coming out.
One fella asked why I was doing that after every shot. I showed him a completely black patch, he said, "oh".
After I got home from the range, the cleanup was as enjoyable as the shooting IMO.
I used the Butch's Black powder bore shine and before long, she was squeaky clean. Following up with some RemOil and back in the safe she went. Took it out this evening to check and, no rust, so I must be doing it right.
cayugad, I really like the Moosemilk on the rb patches. The only problem I had was with the ticking. I think mines too thick and I don't have a micrometer to check. Thank goodness the stuff's only $3 a yard. Easily replaceable. I wonder if the red stripe ticking is thinner than the blue?
(from Walmart)
When I was at the range on thursday, I was swabbing between shots with the 50/50 and couldn't believe the gunk coming out.
One fella asked why I was doing that after every shot. I showed him a completely black patch, he said, "oh".
After I got home from the range, the cleanup was as enjoyable as the shooting IMO.
I used the Butch's Black powder bore shine and before long, she was squeaky clean. Following up with some RemOil and back in the safe she went. Took it out this evening to check and, no rust, so I must be doing it right.
cayugad, I really like the Moosemilk on the rb patches. The only problem I had was with the ticking. I think mines too thick and I don't have a micrometer to check. Thank goodness the stuff's only $3 a yard. Easily replaceable. I wonder if the red stripe ticking is thinner than the blue?
(from Walmart)
#30
ORIGINAL: take1a
Mcawful, were you shooting plastic with sabots, conicals, or ball with patch? What is "50/50"?
Mcawful, were you shooting plastic with sabots, conicals, or ball with patch? What is "50/50"?
She hasn't worn it in years and I hope she doesn'ttry to find it.

cayugad, the roundballs I was using are .490 by Hornady. Plus the roundballs that I cast myself, also .490. They were both tough with the ticking, but a real joy with the T/C store bought patches. I went through 50 of those easily.
The only difference in the rb I bought and the ones I cast is 2 grains in weight. The Hornady balls are cold swaged and mine are missing about 2 grains of weight from the sprue cut off. Still shot the same. Right on the money at 50 yards.


