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APEX Float/Bed

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Old 12-14-2006, 01:09 PM
  #11  
Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

ORIGINAL: sabotloader

Pglasgow

So do you just think I shouldonly trim the stock to float the barrel?
No - I think you have eaxactly the right thought lift the lugs at least one teflon thickness - no more than two then check your float... (if two shims does not float it then you will have to resort to sanding) the beauty of doing my way with shims is you can try the shims in place before you glass to make sure you have what you want. In fact i shot my Omega all season with shims in place no bedding - teflon is a great product those little cutting boards that Terry gets have been a life saver for me - although she complains about having to replace them all the time - i do not take her used ones only her new ones.

In the Omega I cut the shims to fit exactly into thelug pockets used a paper punch to punch in the screw holes and went hunting... well somewhere in there I shot it to check my POI and and adjust the scope.

mike
Mike,

Are talking about those flexible (shoe box paper thick) cutting boards? What brand, what do the look like? I wanted to be sure bedding was between the back of thelugs and the stock so no free space exists there. Is that a good idea?
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:22 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Pglasgow

Are talking about those flexible (shoe box paper thick) cutting boards? What brand, what do the look like?
Here, Terry can tell you what I borrowing from her and where she gets them - I'll take a pic...

The first one I purchased was at a Whole Foods Market 3 years ago. They are now available in the housewares area of Wal-Mart, ShopKo, Target, etc. They usually come in packages of two, 12" x 15" (before Mike whacks at them). Next trip to the store we will find a brand name, etc. Advice - if your wife buys them for you be ready to "compensate" double or triple for the effort.

Here is a pic- these are not any good Terry has ruined them by cutting on them - but you can see that one is shorter than the rest - I liberated a piece of it when it was new....





I wanted to be sure bedding was between the back of thelugs and the stock so no free space exists there. Is that a good idea?
Yes - that is the best thought with just shimming you will not get that added strength and stability. so bedding with the shims in place is the best answer... When I do the Omega I will reduce the size of the shims to just enough to lift the lugs and then the shims will be bedded inplace place with the glass all around....

It will make it more difficult to take the action out of the stocke cause it will be tight - but tight is good.... if it is loose it will get looser...


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Old 12-14-2006, 01:29 PM
  #13  
Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Many thanks to Terry and you also Mike. I'll know what I'm looking for now. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:33 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Pglasgow

Pictures have been posted and an answer to your last question...
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:36 PM
  #15  
Nontypical Buck
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Great! Thanks for all your comments. I really like the ideas you have and will implement them. Thanks.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:01 PM
  #16  
 
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Sounds like you are getting pretty well dialed in on this project. Don't be afraid to remove a little material from the barrel channel. I looked at a Winchester Apex for the first time (close up) a couple of weeks ago, and it looked like some material was going to have to go up towards the front at 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock. Since the stock material isn't real ridgid, I would give it a generous free float at the expense of cosmetics. Although you can use oil, a regular release agent (like what they sell in Brownell's) is a better deal. If it resists coming apart after bedding, 24 hours in the deep freeze will often allow the glue to let go with a sharp rap.

Also, if you have access to an Inch Pound torque wrench; I usually set the action screws on this type of stock to around 35 inchpounds. It's nice to have one of these wrenches so you can keep the bedding tension consistent.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:03 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Thanks Roskoe, good info.
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Old 12-14-2006, 03:33 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Pglasgow, not all barrels are designed to be free floating if you could shim it up so it is floating and see if it shoots better that way it just might save you some grief.
Also you might check with Roskoe on what he uses as a release agent,I always use a matched kit because I found out the hard way release agents are not always interchange able. Lee

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Old 12-14-2006, 08:32 PM
  #19  
 
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Lemonyne - I get the release agent product from Brownell's. 081-007-003. Have used it for years in conjunction with slow dry JB Weld - which I consider a superior bedding compound to the Acraglas products.
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Old 12-14-2006, 10:30 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: APEX Float/Bed

Keep us posted on this project, I'm may be interested in doing this to my son's Apex.

I have noticed that the POI seems to start moving after a few shots as the barrel starts to heat up. I suspect that it has something to do with the bedding/barrel float. I was thinking of just removing matirial from the barrrel channel but will now just wait and see what works for you before taking the plunge. I hope you don't mind being a guinie pig for the rest of us.
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