RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Some time ago, I made the mistake of removing my BP (sidekick) in the field and screwing it back where a little piece of foulingwas lodged between the BP end and the barrel. When I cleaned the rifle that evening, I noticed erosion had begun at a point on the BP, maybe 1/32" wide.

Since then I haveapplied teflon tape to only the first few threads and the end the BP (where it seals). I still continue and always have used permatex brand anti-sieze compound (alot like never-sieze). So I've been doing kind of a hybrid of the two methods. The erosion first occurred around shot 300. Now around shot 640 I notice that the erosion continues although its not terribly worse, but it is indeed worse than the first time I noticed it so I know I'm not sealing gases, though I am satisfied that I am slowing them down.

I have mixed emotions about the comments already made and I find myself agreeing and disagreeing with both practices. Like sabotloader, I feel a good seal will prevent BP siezures and make for longer barrel life. But one thing is clear to me, my BP is very poorly designed for sealing gases (and I'm not entirely convinced that a piece of foulingwasthe initiatingcause of the erosion on the end of my BP), and IMHO any BP which is required to obtain its seal from butting flat to flat surfaces is fighing a losingbattle with regard toa perfect seal.

In any event, I wonder whether there would be any signs of erosion if I had simply backed it off a 1/4 turn. Granted gases will get round the BP, but maybe they won't cut like they do when they go through a very small opening (like the erosion channel on the end my BP). Cayugad, are there any signs of erosion on your BP?

Whether the antisieze compound is best for the job is open to debate, but it has served me well. Fact is, I use itbecause I just happen to have some around.

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Pglasgow

Here is what my mechanical mind is saying to me... the strength of threads and a nut are if there is no movement back and forth on the threads - if there is movement there is a greater chance of breakage. So if you back off a 1/4 turn insert your cap or primer drop the hammer on the load the bolt drives the plug forward some measuralbe distance - that distance would be detirmined by the tightness of the plug in the threads - any drive it forward and then immediated drive it back with a high pressure load going off. This back and forth movement just doesn't make sense. The movement forward is no big deal but the slam back will add up. How good are your threads??? Loosen a lug nut a little bit what is going to happen or why are the BP on sidelocks tightened to such a standard that TC will not even allow you as a consumer to work on the breechplug - they will not even sell you one.

I know - I'm fretting something that doesn't need to be fretted but I have seen way to many accidents happen because of loose bolts, especially in the logging busines.

OK I'll shut up now... sorry

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Well we have all been at it for a while and the thing that suprises me is so many different ways work well for the persoon using them.
I use layout bluing to get the most perfect fit I can,then nickle anti-sieze to seal the threads and snug the plug down but not hard enough to scarf up the mating surfaces; I never worry about it till I get home to clean the gun.
But as Cayuqad says it is a messy processs if you get it on anything. Lee

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

No sign of erosion, none what so ever in all five of my inlines.

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

sabotloader,

My mechanical mind tells me the same thing and as I said, I have mixed feelings about it.

Regarding accidents, I am sure that the manufactures will tell one that the sealing surfacesare to be mated. But maybe this particular subject needs to be viewed from a context, the context being the loadsthemselves. Personally I could not bring myself to drop the hammer on 120 grains or 3 pellets if the plug were not snug. But maybe the risk with 70 to 100 grains is lessened considerably. If there was considerable risks with the loads that Dave is using, the signs would begin showing and inspection of the plug would reveal them.

Up to now I've always installed the plug with sealing surfaces mated, and probably will continue to do so because I have no trouble removing my BP unless blowback (from the ignition hole) crusts in the BP from the outside (not through the threads), and plain old soapy water does the trick if I let that happen.

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Woohoo!! Another x-150 owner! Now i dont feel so naked here! lol. Branson, how is it shooting for you? i bought mine almost 4 years ago with the stainless barrel and camo stock. I love mine.

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Frontier,
I've had it for three weeks and I've been so busy with school I've only shot it twice. I got a good deal on it. It came with the .45 cal stainless barrel on it and the .50 cal barrel too. The stock is camo. It feels great to shoot and I think I'm hooked on BP already. It was dead on at 40 yards with the fiber-optic sights it came with (they're not as bright as I'd like though). The plan is to work with it like crazy for a bit during winter break and hunt the late BP season. Next year, the .50 cal barrel will be on it with a nice scope. The gun just feels perfect, and with my 100 grains of 777 and the 195 grain powerbelts I'm pleased (although I'll play with heavier bullets before I make any great claims about accuracy).
-- B

RE: Breach Plug Removal...
 

Sounds like you're off to a good start. I know exactly what you mean about the sights. I changed mine out with a cheapie $20 set but now im looking into buying the tru glow sights from cabelas for $40. Hopefully i'll get to go late season elk hunting and i'll take my x-150. My 30-30 just isnt any fun.