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Patch lubes
In my search for a lube that will shoot in the same point of impact clean or dirty, I have tried many lubes. Most don't shoot any where close from the first to second shot in my .73 carbine rifle.
I have shot some really good groups with dry oiled patches at 100 yds, but the first shot, on a clean barrel will blow holes or tear the patches.....second and third shots are fine.[:@] I have tried many of the home-made lubes with Bees Wax and......ATF, Neetsfoot, Crisco, Sno-seal, and a couple of others, most are too slippery. Too slippery is bad, makes the balls splatter.[causes fliers] imo Anyway, I had tried Moose Milk as a wet patch lube with poor results, but I just pust some on .015 pillow ticking and let it dry.............first shot clean barrel........torn patch, but a good hit. Lubed up a small pc of canvas..................sun dried and a little help from a fan. First and second shot are nearly in the same hole at 75 yds............I have more material drying................. The first shot patch on a clean bore is one of the best looking patches that have come out of the 73 cal tube. More info coming.....soon. N0-BS |
RE: Patch lubes
Unless patched round balls are completely forgiving by their nature, I never have that 1st shot / following shot difference using NL1000, regardless of caliber.
On full power hunting loads I use Oxyoke wonderwads...might be worth considering to see if it'll give you some more consistency... |
RE: Patch lubes
TC Natural Lube 1000, works good on my maxi balls, but never could get it to shoot out of my .73 cal.
Some of the lubes I have tried have been seven to eight inches apart from the first to second shot.......really amazing on how different guns react to the same lube. Roundball, you got me thinking::eek:I haven't tried may of these lubes since I hand lapped the bore.......I just lubed some strips of canvas with TC 1000 and Permatex........we will se how they shoot in a clean dry barrel. |
RE: Patch lubes
Todays results:
![]() One shot is missing with the TC lube..........I could find no holes, but my steel angled backer plate was nocked down...........must have been a near perfect hole in a hole.......... 75 yds Bench, 6 o'clock hold 125FF, .725 RB, canvas patch PX-Permatex Blue........loaded hard.....great looking patchs TC-TC N1000 .........also loaded hard......."........"" MM-Stumpy's Moose Milk......loads easy...."......"" 411- My Wax Lube..............loads easy 411+ Just more of it..............."....." It is nice to know that in cold weather, I can always use the N1000 lube if the others get too stiff to load easily. And two of the TC patches got eaten by the lawn......sneeky varmints. My lube still needs some work, but it is close. And, for some reason, the first shot was a hang fire.........and I thought the barrel was clean..........shame on me for not firing a cap! Hope someone finds some of this interesting! Bruce No-BS |
RE: Patch lubes
Actually some good shooting there. And it's always amazing how much difference a simple lube can make. As for the moosemilk first shot on a clean barrel. I've also noticed the patch is all blow apart. No real accuracy loss but still the following ones are fine after that first shot.
Bore butter all the patches seem to look the same other then degrees of fowling on them. When I shoot with a wad, I've noticed that some of the patches are in such pristine condition they could be refused and just for fun, have shot them again. Again, some great testing. I like to see reports like that... :D |
RE: Patch lubes
So your first shots a blown patches also, thought it was a quirk of my rough spots in the bore! I went to a light canvas for the first shot, it has not blown apart with moose milk on a clean barrel yet.....only been 4 or five shots..
Pillow ticking allways blows on the first shot.......second and third are fine. When hunting, I like to leave my gun loaded......and I don't want that first patch to tear...........that is part or the reason for this search for the right lube and patch with a clean bore. |
RE: Patch lubes
bs, nl1000 does freeze in winter, its awful .i used to keep my maxi-ball inside my coat on second shot if i needed it.if you use roundball here in winter in pa. using nl1000 in your barrel and patch, oh my. its a bear to push home.i use hoppes blackpowder for my patchs in winter but i dont hunt with rb. i now use POWERBELT 295,no lube, clean barrel.thats 1 problem out of way at 5 above.
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RE: Patch lubes
I did some shooting today with my 36 buggy rifle. Squirrel season is just 2 months away...........
Tried two different lubes, on e new Stumpy's Moose Milk and some Permatex-Blue. Using .335 RBs and pillow ticking. The first shot with MM was with a dry clean barrel, two more shots then a heavy spit wipe, two dry wipes, a cap, and two more shots. LWW between shots. Then the Permatex-Blue: Heavy spit wipe, two dry, a cap and three shots, with LWW in between. Spit wipe.........etc. ![]() The biggest secret to shooting groups is a light wet wipe between shots..........and not waiting to reload. [LWW-the ammout ofspit used varys depending on temp and humidity] Don't let the crud harden! [:'(]Reload fast! Works for me.:D Now with the MM, I need to work on the first dry shot. |
RE: Patch lubes
You can also try a small spray bottle filled with distilled water. Geta small automotove scent spray bottlethat has a wide misty spray. It goes on a dry patch very lightly so moisture does not interfere with the powder-eliminates the slime from your hands associated with lubes- so you stay cleaner at the range & produces outstanding groups in many rifles.
Just another option to consider. Both of your shot groups are instant killers to most-any game. Either target shownis considered very good for hunting purposes. These groups may reverse themselves when colder weather arrives too. Now (hot summer) is NOT the time for sighting-in. But it is a great time to be outdoors at the range having fun. Just find a spot that has the most shade..:D |
RE: Patch lubes
I use NL1000 or other similar bore butter's withusually prettygood results.
Unless it's below freezing then it's Rooster Lab's PL16 or BP-7. Exceptional lube and without a doubt my favorite. It's the most consistant lube I have ever used. Excellent in both the hottest and coldest of weather. http://www.roosterlabs.com/index.html M2C, Tahquamenon |
RE: Patch lubes
Triple 7 is right about lubes changing when it gets cold, I am looking forward to trying the Moose Milk in the clold.......I still have my dry oiled patches that should work in freezing temps.
Tahquamenon, is the Rooster Lab lube wax based? I have a wax lube that you rub on that is one of the best I have ever tried, but no longer made.[:'(]I have tried to make a copy....close, very close! |
RE: Patch lubes
BS – Just out of curiosity, what lube do you feel loaded the easiest? Which lube was the easiest to use? Overall, which would you recommend or are you indifferent?
Thanks for posting your report…real interesting. Just thinking if I want to pursue the spray bottle MM approach or the hand cleaner approach. |
RE: Patch lubes
Hunter John, every gun is different, just cause it works in mine, doesn't mean it will work in yours.
I have not sprayed the moose milk on top yet, but I have used equal ammouts of Castor Oil/Murphy's Oil Soap and Water in a spray bottle. Just load a ball and dry patch and squirt, or dribble some drops on top. The dry patch will suck the lube in just fine. I have a small Vizine[sp] Bottle that works well. Smaller the hole, the better. Some thoughts: The dry fabric doesn't compress like when it is wet, so when you load it dry, the ball is imprinted by the fabric better. Then add lube the lube to the top.....it sucks in and wets the fabric,softens and lubes. Instead of forcing the lube out when loading, it allows it to be "wicked" in and actually lube the bore. I also tried the moose milk as a wet patch......didn't shoot very accuractly in my guns. But, let it dry, it makes a nice dry type lube that shoots OK....and loads easy...... |
RE: Patch lubes
![]() Todays target using Stumpy's Moose Milk.......this is about as well as my .32 carbine shoots. It was hot today, so I only shot one target.[8D] It works well in 4 of my rifles, be sure and give it a try, both wet and dry. I prefer the dry method, but wet patches may work for you. This is the formula and how to, as written by cayugad: Liquid Lube - Moose Milk[/b] [/b] [/b] 8 ounces of isopropyl alcohol 3 ounces of Castor Oil 4 ounces of Witch Hazel 16 ounces of tap water 1 ounce of Murphy’s Oil Soap (make sure you mix the ingredients in the exact order they are listed) I buy a yard of material of 100% cotton blue strip pillow tick at the local wal mart. I wash that in the washing machine. I then line dry the material. After that you can tear the strip real easy off that bolt of material. I like to tear off an inch and a half. Then you soak that strip in moose milk. Ring the excess moose milk out. Then I lay that on an old window screen in the sun and let it dry. This is a dry patch . If you like a more wet patch, you can spritz them with a spritzer bottle. |
RE: Patch lubes
WOW! a squirrel wouldn't stand much of a chance if it happened across you with that rifle loaded. Excellent shooting...
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RE: Patch lubes
Yes, Rooster Labs is a waxy paste.
The melting point for PL-16is 265 deg F. The flash point is about 400 deg F. The specifc gravity at 60 deg F. is 0.86 (water is 1.0). Tahquamenon |
RE: Patch lubes
nice shooting.
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