cayugad

That is good to hear from both of you... I was afraid that they might be made to go down the new tighter bores of the new Knights. Even if they had been it would have been easy to switch sabots...

cascadedad

I either have 30 or 60 of the 300 grain SST's I will bring over next time and you can shoot them up... I never developed a load with them because they would not load in anything I had without changing sabots... Now, they are two expensive to shoot on a regular basis so they are just sitting here in a box...

Griggs in Pasco is another place to get a lot of ML supplies...

We will probably only be hunting whitetail deer this year, but I guess there is a chance we could chase some elk also. I imagine sabotloader would recommend that the Knight 260 would be a good choice for deer and probably the 310 for elk. Correct?

So would anyone else recommend that, or possibly the 310 for both? I am also going to try out some of the big conicals that everyone raves about so much. We'll see.

By the way, most of the area around here is pretty open, so longer range shots will present themselves. Just have to determine the range we feel comfortable with, but from what I have read, 150 yards is probably about the max most people like to go. If I remember right I looked at the ballistics of these two and there really didn't appear to be too much difference in drop between them up to 150 yards or so. Can anyone confirm that?

cayugad
Good to hear you've already run a few of the Knight 260gr sabots down the tube for us newbies! The whole 2F vs. 3F is still a little confusing here. Info I've read says 2F is pistol powder while 3F is for rifles - I believe they also stated that 2F burns "slower?" Huh? I believe there's an ignition point difference and burn temperature differences, but slower burning? Does this relate to the amount of combustible vs. non-(readily) combustable components in the powder? Sorry for asking so many questions here!

cascadedad
Thanks for the info on the Knight lead sabots - I'm planning trips to local GI Joes and Sportsmans Warehouse in the next day or so ... I really don't have a clue about what ML supplies are locally available.

cheers,
phil

I think you got that backwards for the benifit of anyone who read that.

3F does make a good rifle powder in some arms burning cleaner and faster but is not best for all rifles. 2F is considered rifle powder.

cascadedad/philnie

Please remember I am not an expert, but if I were you two I would develope a load using T7-3f. Triple Seven requires more heat than the pyro's to start. I would suggest the 3f because it is easier to ignite and on some cold, damp Washington morning that is going to make a big difference since you are limited to #11 caps. You have to keep everything dry and it needs to ignite now! when you pull the trigger. Shooting now and through the summer will not give you a good indication of what your gun will do when it really is cold. In fact your point of impact between the warm weather now and the cold weather later may change a bit... Sabots are really suseptible to heat.

Because of the area that you hunt in I still would suggest the 260 vs the 310. Velocity and accuracy being the key... When you look at the hunting regulations for Washington you will understand what I am about to say about hunting elk. Getting an elk permit in Washington is not automatic and it is not easy... often the seasons do not even coincide. You probably will not be able to do a darn thing about any elk you see. Set up for deer and when you get a chance change to an elk load, although the 260 will job on elk also - if it gets penetration.

I am looking for my range log book but those velocities I got for you aff the Wholesale hunter site a low for what you will actually shoot with T7... I just had the log the other night now I can not find it...Found it I actually put it back with the chronograph...

With 110 grains of T7-2f shooting an Omega I was getting:
1880 fps
1877 fps
1854 fps
That is really getting along for a 260 grain bullet.

Here is ballistic chart for a 250 grain Gold Dot pushed by 100 grains of T7-2f

That looks good. So if I sighted in at 75 yards, 2 1/2" high, I'd be good to go out to nearly 175 yards? Is the 885 ft/lbs of energy enough?

i need something like that...i got crap in bags....and possible bag....i need somewhere to put it all.....i had it all in drawer once.....but it turned into yet another "junk drawer"....ill fall into some form of an organized life sooner or later....probably later! lol...id end up making a sorry excuse not to put something in the box....then something else....next thing i know the box has something diffrent in it! lol.....but one day...one day! your box looks good!

cascadedad
That seems a bit low. I like to keep my ft lbs at 1k minimum (all things being equal) within the "kill zone." What sabotloader's chart tells me is that I'd belimited to 125yds or so for that load/components ...

sabotloader
Thanks for the ballistics info here man! I'm very surprised that at 1800fps (effective muzzle) we're getting only 880ft lbs at 175yds ... this has to be why cayugad and others swear by the heavy conicals, eh?

Thankfully my Cabelas order arrived today so I have the Hornady 300gr XTP, Buffalo 375gr SSB, T/C 'view' powder volume loader, and anti seize grease at hand! Woo Haa ...

phil