I've been shooting percussion lock rifles my whole muzzle loading career. Now
I have an urge to try my luck at the flintlock way of life. I found a Lyman
Trade rifle that will fit my budget. I wanted to askyou guys a few questions
before I made a purchase. 1st, Can I use Pyrodex P in the flash pan for an
ignition powder? I have some old Goex FFg I could crush maybe, but I doubtit wouldeven shoot. 2nd, How often do you have to change the liners at the touch hole, and for whatreasons would I have to change them? Should I order an extra liner with the gun? 3rd, Do you know what size flints the Lyman's use? Is thereone type or brand of flint preferred one over the other? How longwill a flint lastonaverage. Anything else
you think I should know, I'd be glad to hear it.

Thanks,
Blown Smoke

Unfortunetly I don't own any flinters, but a poster on here once said it was nearly impossible to find ffffg in Alaska so he's crushed a little ffg to fill the bill. As long as you're crushing real black powder and not a substitute you shouldn't have a problem. Sorry man, that's about all the help I can give you regarding flinters. But I too am looking into one of those, so keep us posted!

No...and it won't work as a main charge in a Flintlock either...need real black for reliable performance in a Flintlock.
Unless the powder itself is contaminated, it should work fine...take a 35mm film canister and fill it half full of 2F, put a lead ball in it, hold the cap on tight and shake it back and forth 15 seconds, look at it, shake more if you need to, etc.
Thousands of shots; Yes, a spare for any critical part is always handy in case it's lost during cleaning, etc.
Flints are ordered based upon the width of the frizzen...measure yours...I think it'll be a 3/4" but check to be sure;
Black English Flints are without question the best flints;
(Order 25 or 50 bulk bags from October Country for best price)
I average 40-60 shots per 3/4" BEF in my TC Flintlocks without really doing much to them but cleaning them during the range session...if I knapp them a few times I can nurse them along and have gotten as many as85-95 shots.
Strongly suggest you order someGoex 3F...is actually a little faster than 2F andproduces alot less fouling...also, when you place the order, you can include one can of 4F for priming...and get a"pan primer" with a 3 grain plunger/dispenser tip...they areexcellent for the TC and Lyman size pans, metering exactly 3 grns each time, and filling the pan only half full which is what you want...(keep the prime below the touch hole)...at 3grns per shot, and 7000grns in a pound, one can of 4F will produce about 2300 primes/shots.

MOST IMPORTANT ADVICE:
Bore cleaning, drying, andlubing steps must be done to the 100% level every time or you will have problems.

I think in terms of putting a rifle away in showroom condition every time...a dozen and a half TC Hawkens over the past 15+ years, still look like new...you canafford to take time.....(weeks/months/years).....to learnall the odds and ends about shooting and hunting withFlintlocks.

Butyou can begin losing abarrel inhours if the bore isnot 100% cleaned, then 100% dried, then 100% coated with lube after it's been fired...both Flintlocks and Caplocks.

Enjoy!

roundball,

Do you fire a fouling shot in a flintlock to remove any remaining oils
in the leftbore before loading the main charge and taking your first
shot? Like we do with our caplocks. Or do you use an alcohol patch
or something for this?

You did a super job of helping me with this, and I really appreciate it.
"Thanks Big Time"
Blown Smoke

[/quote] No, and when they tell you other powders such as Pinnacle will work.. well they will ignite but not dependable. Like roundball said. If you want the rifle to fire, get some black powder. Goex, Kik, Swiss, (leave the elephant alone IMO) are all good powders. I've heard Grafs/Wano powder is good also.

If your old Goex was kept dry, it might surprise you. It would work as a main charge and probably work good. As for crushing it, well it could work, it might even work as the main pan flash, but I would get some Goex 3f or 4f for the pan.

I bought a new liner when I got my Trade Rifle. I got a RMC hex head vent liner because I remove mine when I clean the rifle and the hex head is much easier to get in and out over the standard slot screw driver vent liner.. http://www.rmcsports.com/catalog.htm .

I get the 3/4 inch Thomas Fuller Black English flints. They were what Roundball recommended and so that is what I use. If there is a flint lock problem that is the person to talk to. I get them from October Country in bulk. You get a better price.

I have had some of the flints last for 40 shots or more. I have had others last for only 15 shots. I am not a master in the art of Knapping Flints and admit this. If I were better at knapping I would get more shots out of them. I use a Mizzy Wheel to shape my flints. (until my dremel tool burned out [:@]! )

Well get a vent pick at the same time. Also a frizzen cover, it acts as a safety for me. If your getting a Trade Rifle I like the .54 caliber just because of the caliber. I bought mine from D&R Sports and got a real good price from them. http://www.dnrsports.net/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DSC&Cat egory_Code=muzzleloaders

not knocking lyman, never handled one, seen a few .when i go to range with say, 15 other shooters,i lay my T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK on my sand bag.its like E.F.HUTTON ,ha. everyone stops talking and looks. most get a nasty look on their faces.why, well, i will let you be judge of that.today, most people have to show off to live.thats life today. i never did but i am from the OLD SCHOOL.it does feel good in one way when people look at you with that look on their faces, drolling, wishing, dreaming,that they had a TC HAWKINS.i have seen that look for 35 years now.i paid 119 for my hawkins new in 1971.it is still gauranteeded.all those years.i am not knocking any flintlock, cheap or expensive but you will most likely have flintlock the rest of your life.TC HAWKINS .50CAL is expensive, around 600 new.but a very nice FEELING, LOOKING,SHOOTING gun.back in 1971, i had pick of about 10 different muzzleloaders .i knew NOTHING about the guns, nothing. i stood at rack and pulled all 10 off,put them to my shoulder.guess what, the only one that FELT good and balanced was the TC HAWKINS. that was it. i know of where there is a used .50cal hawkins in great shape for 350 dollars but they may take 300.if you are interested,pm me. take care.

Thanks cayugad,

I can't get in the D&R sports site. Something about "miva" wont let
me in. I'm looking at one at the possible shop for $299. Does that
sound reasonable forthis typeflinter?

I guess I'll try a .50 cal this time as I don't own one, and I already
have 2 .54 cals. But I'll probably sell one of those if I getthis gun.
As I have too many guns now& the wife is starting to fuss.

Blown Smoke

I think at D&R The Trade Rifle Flintlock was around $243.00 as I remember. I just checked my records and I paid $242.97 for the .54 caliber Lyman Trade Rifle so my guess was pretty close. Also if you think it would be worth giving them a call their phone number is;570-735-1752. I think their site is under construction right now. They were real good people to deal with and I have bought a lot of stuff from them. It would save you $50.00 .

You can never have too many guns.

Absolutely not...I sight in a rifle from a squeaky clean/lubed bore, just like it will be for the shot when I'm hunting...I just dry patch out any excess bore butter from the last heavy lubing, and load the rifle.

UsingNatural Lube 1000I don'tget the different POI'sfrom one shot to the next...I shoot40-50 shot range sessions on Saturday mornings with Goex 3F and unless it's a rare dry winter day,never have towipe between shots,and all 40-50 shots shoot just like the first one.

To me, it makes no sense to go to all the trouble of getting a rifle spotless, then shooting a "fouling shot" to dirty it up to go sit in the woods all day with a dirty rifle...IMO, if a person is having different POI's from 1st shot to 2nd shot, then they need to figure out aclean, logical way to correct it...ie: find a lube or something that gives shot to shot consistency.

My .02 cents...

I use an alcohol patch as swab the gun oil out of the barrel. Another patch with some alcohol to wipe the pan out and the frizzen and flint off before I prime the rifle.

There really is not a different POI too much with traditional roundball. I find that more of an issue with sabots.