FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
#1
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
hello all, question.i read here that someone suggested to remove the clear finish on stock and put on a oil finish.is this good idea to do and if so, what are the steps to take to do it.thanks
#2
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
ORIGINAL: sproulman
hello all, question.i read here that someone suggested to remove the clear finish on stock and put on a oil finish.is this good idea to do and if so, what are the steps to take to do it.thanks
hello all, question.i read here that someone suggested to remove the clear finish on stock and put on a oil finish.is this good idea to do and if so, what are the steps to take to do it.thanks
Protecting the wood, and providing eye appeal.
The simple questions are:
Generally speaking, does the current finish protect the wood stock?
Doesthe rifle generally have a good eye appeal for you, the owner?
If the answer to both is yes, then the question is: why would you want to go to all the trouble of refinishing it...
#4
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
roundball is right on the money.. also you start taking all that hardware off to re finish the stock it can be a pain to put all back on. If the finish on the rifle at present is in good condition and you like the looks of it, leave it. You can always refinish the stock at a later time.
Now is the time to go out there and shoot the thing and enjoy it.
Now is the time to go out there and shoot the thing and enjoy it.
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location:
Posts: 102
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
I made mention of refinishing TC stocks in another post so it might have been that reference that you saw. First, I don't disagree with what roundball said but I personally think the varnish finish that T/C used to use on older models looks awful and does nothing to show the character of the wood. The walnut stocks don't have a lot of character in the grain anyway, but that varnish makes it look yellow and too light, IMO. THe varnish also scratches easily and shows scratches prominently. Therefore, I don't think the varnish finish looksappealing to the eye or provides adequate protection to the wood. If you feel the same way, then you can refinish the stock.
Second, I respectfully disagree with cayugad about the hardware being a pain to take off andput back on. I find it to be quite easy, as it only involves removing a few screws and then reinstalling the hardware with the same screws in the holes that are already there. It is really very simple and easy to do. I also don't like the brass fittings on T/C's Hawkens andonce removed, take the opportunity to darken them with blueing compound. Of course, this is again a matter of personal taste but the hardware has to be removed if you desire to darken it.
If you desire ot refinish your stock, here is a direct link to my post with instructions.http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/fb.aspx?m=1350600 The only thing I would add is that an old toothbrush works great for removing the old varnish and varnish remover that gets into the inleted areas.
The oil finishes i have used are Fornby's Tung oil and Watco Danish Oil. Both give great results. Besides looking considerably better, IMO, minor scratches in an oil finish can be easily repaired by rubbing the oil into the scratch.
Second, I respectfully disagree with cayugad about the hardware being a pain to take off andput back on. I find it to be quite easy, as it only involves removing a few screws and then reinstalling the hardware with the same screws in the holes that are already there. It is really very simple and easy to do. I also don't like the brass fittings on T/C's Hawkens andonce removed, take the opportunity to darken them with blueing compound. Of course, this is again a matter of personal taste but the hardware has to be removed if you desire to darken it.
If you desire ot refinish your stock, here is a direct link to my post with instructions.http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/fb.aspx?m=1350600 The only thing I would add is that an old toothbrush works great for removing the old varnish and varnish remover that gets into the inleted areas.
The oil finishes i have used are Fornby's Tung oil and Watco Danish Oil. Both give great results. Besides looking considerably better, IMO, minor scratches in an oil finish can be easily repaired by rubbing the oil into the scratch.
#6
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
ORIGINAL: sproulman
someone said that the stock looks much better without that clear finish on it.i was interested in that if it made it look nicer.
someone said that the stock looks much better without that clear finish on it.i was interested in that if it made it look nicer.
Theyusually have commercial chemical stripping booths that they use to refinish old furniture...I've refinished several old 1970's TC Hawken stocks because they needed refinishing...I droppthem off at my local antique place, pick it up a week later for $20...and have a perfectly clean,bare,dry stock waiting for me to take it home and apply my first coat of Tru-Oil.
#7
Giant Nontypical
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PA.
Posts: 5,195
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
sounds good.do they dunk it in this stuff .i heard that its not good to soak the stock.for tru-oil which i dont like to work good you should have open pores in wood ,then sand with steel wool lightly between coats. i am still debating on if i will do it. i do like wood feel more than that shiny coating but coating does protect the hawkins well and dont look bad. how did it look vrs the original finish when you were done. thanks
#8
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
ORIGINAL: sproulman
sounds good.do they dunk it in this stuff .i heard that its not good to soak the stock.for tru-oil which i dont like to work good you should have open pores in wood ,then sand with steel wool lightly between coats. i am still debating on if i will do it. i do like wood feel more than that shiny coating but coating does protect the hawkins well and dont look bad. how did it look vrs the original finish when you were done. thanks
sounds good.do they dunk it in this stuff .i heard that its not good to soak the stock.for tru-oil which i dont like to work good you should have open pores in wood ,then sand with steel wool lightly between coats. i am still debating on if i will do it. i do like wood feel more than that shiny coating but coating does protect the hawkins well and dont look bad. how did it look vrs the original finish when you were done. thanks
Mine were all old 1970's/early 80's stocks that I bought for various reasons and they needed refinishing...here's one I have a photo of
#10
RE: FINISH ON T/C HAWKINS .50CAL FLINTLOCK
ORIGINAL: sproulman
looks nice.
looks nice.
No stain what so ever...Tru-Oil darkens walnut enough by itself.