Will greasing sabots, so they load a little easier, affect my accuracy?

If you put grease on the side of a sabot, it is supposed to have a detrimantal effect on accuracy.

Keep yore powder dry!!

Greasing your sabots will indeed prove to be counter-productive. The plastic is as slick as it needs to be already......adding lube will only gunk up the bore as each round is shot. The plastic itself leaves some residue in the bore when fired, and when you mix a lube & powder residue with it - you have a recipe for a mucked up barrel.

You're best bet is to just make sure you have a reasonably clean barrel before loading each round. A good bullet starter will help - as will a screw-on T-handle for your ramrod.......both will give you more leverage and ease loading.


"Every moving thing that liveth, I give unto you as meat" (Gen 9:3)

Trust God..........but keep your powder dry!

I use my barnes sabots dry and it works really well. I would recommend using no lube.

ths78,
If you read instructions with sabots and/or the gun your using.It should tell you NOT to grease sabots.If your bullet is that tight going down,ck barrel for plastic fouling.Despite what gun and sabot manufacture says I have found plastic fouling that will effect loading.I have this problem with my Knight 45.Clean,soak with good bore solvent.If that doesn't work try another bullet combo.Good Luck

These guys are speaking the truth, I tried it both ways, lubebd and unlubed. Unlubed is the way to go for accuracy.

I hate to "advertise" for another bulletin board, but there is a guy over on the muzzleloading forum at RealTree.com that has an extensive knowledge of blackpowder do's and don'ts. According to him, there is something about the color of the plastic that corresponds to the bore diameter of a gun. I can't remember exactly, but you can check it out if you want to.

Those who wish to appear wise among fools, among the wise seem foolish.
Marcus Fabius Quintilianus (35 AD - 100 AD)

True........

Sabots are color coded to designate what diameter bullet vs what diameter bore. For instance: black is for a 45cal bullet used in a .50cal gun and green is for a .44cal bullet used in a .50cal gun. However that is the extent of the coding - it's not like you are fine tuning the actual sabot diameter to a particular bore.

This site has a good description/picture of these codes. By the way, these MMP sabots are the best on the market:

http://www.mmpsabots.com/



"Every moving thing that liveth, I give unto you as meat" (Gen 9:3)

Trust God..........but keep your powder dry!

Mark, you hit the nail on the head. I looked it up after I posted and that's what he was saying.

Those who wish to appear wise among fools, among the wise seem foolish.
Marcus Fabius Quintilianus (35 AD - 100 AD)

Correct me if I'm wrong,
Sabot color may also designate "Mag" load(ie 150gr).There are 3 tab and 4 tab sabots.4 tab better.Sabots thin and thick depending on "precise" diam of bullet used.The combos available to a shooter who wants to customize his load is endless with various sabots and bullets.

If you recover 3-4 of your sabots,you can tell alot about what is going on with a load/bullet combo.They should open up like a parachute after they leave muzzle.Tabs should look uniform,no signs of powder blow by.If you find them "badly" split,cracked or looks like alot of powder blow by,there's a problem somewhere.
Where the problem might be is another topic all together.

Any way - looks like everbody agrees - Lubin the Sabot is a NO-NO.

Hey Mark...are your sure about the color coding? TC's Mag Express Sabots are black and use a .429 bullet. Hornady also makes green and black sabots that use .429 bullets. The green is for "Non-magnum" powder charges, 100gr or less, and the black is for "magnum" powder charges, 100gr or more.

Just checking to make sure.

Toby