Possible lock issue
09-18-2005 | 04:00 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Possible lock issue
Greetings all. I recently bought a Traditions "Shenandoah" flintlock.
The lock has two positions: half cock and full cock (well 3 really when you include uncocked). When going in to half cock the hammer clicks securely in to position. However when going to full cock, I have to rock the hammer back and forth about two times go get the hammer properly cocked in to position.
Is this normal for flintlocks/sidelocks? It seems to me that the tumber and sear are not quite matching up properly when moving to full cock. Once in position the hammer stays in place until the trigger is pulled. Its getting it cocked that takes a bit of doing.
When I first got the rifle about every other cocking the hammer would go to full cock as surely as if going to half cock. That is simply pull the hammer back and release. But now that no longer is the case.
Is this just a quirk I should live with or return the piece to Traditions? I've had the rifle for less than 2 months. I haven't disassembled the lock or done anything to it other then typical cleaning and wiping down the outside with gun oil.
The only thing I can think of that may have caused a problem is possibly over tightening the locking screw may have torqued the hammer just enough to cause the tumbler and sear to go out of alignment. But otherwise the lock seems to be functioning properly, so I am not so sure about that theory.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
~Robert
The lock has two positions: half cock and full cock (well 3 really when you include uncocked). When going in to half cock the hammer clicks securely in to position. However when going to full cock, I have to rock the hammer back and forth about two times go get the hammer properly cocked in to position.
Is this normal for flintlocks/sidelocks? It seems to me that the tumber and sear are not quite matching up properly when moving to full cock. Once in position the hammer stays in place until the trigger is pulled. Its getting it cocked that takes a bit of doing.
When I first got the rifle about every other cocking the hammer would go to full cock as surely as if going to half cock. That is simply pull the hammer back and release. But now that no longer is the case.
Is this just a quirk I should live with or return the piece to Traditions? I've had the rifle for less than 2 months. I haven't disassembled the lock or done anything to it other then typical cleaning and wiping down the outside with gun oil.
The only thing I can think of that may have caused a problem is possibly over tightening the locking screw may have torqued the hammer just enough to cause the tumbler and sear to go out of alignment. But otherwise the lock seems to be functioning properly, so I am not so sure about that theory.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
~Robert
09-18-2005 | 04:31 PM
#2
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,193
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
RE: Possible lock issue
I would not think it is normal that you have to move the cock back and fourth to make sure it remains locked in the fire position. Have you pulled the lock itself and made sure it is nice a clean with a small amount of oil on the lock and spring? This might help. I pull the lock on my flintlock everytime I shoot it, and make sure all the fowling is cleaned off and that it is wiped clean and before I put it back, I put a light coat of oil on the spring and other parts....
If this does not help, then I would call Tradition's and ask them to take a look at the lock.....
If this does not help, then I would call Tradition's and ask them to take a look at the lock.....
09-18-2005 | 04:47 PM
#3
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
RE: Possible lock issue
ORIGINAL: BonsaiDiver
Greetings all. I recently bought a Traditions "Shenandoah" flintlock.
The lock has two positions: half cock and full cock (well 3 really when you include uncocked). When going in to half cock the hammer clicks securely in to position. However when going to full cock, I have to rock the hammer back and forth about two times go get the hammer properly cocked in to position.
Is this normal for flintlocks/sidelocks? It seems to me that the tumber and sear are not quite matching up properly when moving to full cock. Once in position the hammer stays in place until the trigger is pulled. Its getting it cocked that takes a bit of doing.
When I first got the rifle about every other cocking the hammer would go to full cock as surely as if going to half cock. That is simply pull the hammer back and release. But now that no longer is the case.
Is this just a quirk I should live with or return the piece to Traditions? I've had the rifle for less than 2 months. I haven't disassembled the lock or done anything to it other then typical cleaning and wiping down the outside with gun oil.
The only thing I can think of that may have caused a problem is possibly over tightening the locking screw may have torqued the hammer just enough to cause the tumbler and sear to go out of alignment. But otherwise the lock seems to be functioning properly, so I am not so sure about that theory.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
~Robert
Greetings all. I recently bought a Traditions "Shenandoah" flintlock.
The lock has two positions: half cock and full cock (well 3 really when you include uncocked). When going in to half cock the hammer clicks securely in to position. However when going to full cock, I have to rock the hammer back and forth about two times go get the hammer properly cocked in to position.
Is this normal for flintlocks/sidelocks? It seems to me that the tumber and sear are not quite matching up properly when moving to full cock. Once in position the hammer stays in place until the trigger is pulled. Its getting it cocked that takes a bit of doing.
When I first got the rifle about every other cocking the hammer would go to full cock as surely as if going to half cock. That is simply pull the hammer back and release. But now that no longer is the case.
Is this just a quirk I should live with or return the piece to Traditions? I've had the rifle for less than 2 months. I haven't disassembled the lock or done anything to it other then typical cleaning and wiping down the outside with gun oil.
The only thing I can think of that may have caused a problem is possibly over tightening the locking screw may have torqued the hammer just enough to cause the tumbler and sear to go out of alignment. But otherwise the lock seems to be functioning properly, so I am not so sure about that theory.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
~Robert
09-18-2005 | 05:04 PM
#4
Fork Horn
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 427
Likes: 0
From: Northern Illinois
RE: Possible lock issue
BonsaiDiver,
This is not normal and it doesn't sound safe! I would not try to shoot this rifleuntil I know it's been repaired!!I'd remove the lock and see if I could tell what's causing the problem....It could be assimple as aburr ormetal chip.
If you can not determine the cause, my next would betolook up agood gun smith. He'dknow if he could make the repairs or tell you that you need to send it back toTraditions. I've sent gunsback to Traditions before and they do pretty good jobof gettingyour firearmback to you in a short period of time.
"Good Luck" and I hope it's a simple fix that you can do yourself.
This is not normal and it doesn't sound safe! I would not try to shoot this rifleuntil I know it's been repaired!!I'd remove the lock and see if I could tell what's causing the problem....It could be assimple as aburr ormetal chip.
If you can not determine the cause, my next would betolook up agood gun smith. He'dknow if he could make the repairs or tell you that you need to send it back toTraditions. I've sent gunsback to Traditions before and they do pretty good jobof gettingyour firearmback to you in a short period of time.
"Good Luck" and I hope it's a simple fix that you can do yourself.
09-18-2005 | 06:08 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
RE: Possible lock issue
Gents: Now this may sound dumb, but...as a part of normal cleaning, are you supposed to remove the lock and clean the inside? Typically when cleaning thelock area,I clean out the pan, vent hole and outside surfaces. I have never removed the lock from the stock.
I don't remember if the manual suggests doing this. Or if it is prohibited for warranty reasons.
~Robert
I don't remember if the manual suggests doing this. Or if it is prohibited for warranty reasons.
~Robert
09-18-2005 | 06:16 PM
#6
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 501
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
RE: Possible lock issue
ORIGINAL: BonsaiDiver
Gents: Now this may sound dumb, but...as a part of normal cleaning, are you supposed to remove the lock and clean the inside? Typically when cleaning thelock area,I clean out the pan, vent hole and outside surfaces. I have never removed the lock from the stock.
I don't remember if the manual suggests doing this. Or if it is prohibited for warranty reasons.
~Robert
Gents: Now this may sound dumb, but...as a part of normal cleaning, are you supposed to remove the lock and clean the inside? Typically when cleaning thelock area,I clean out the pan, vent hole and outside surfaces. I have never removed the lock from the stock.
I don't remember if the manual suggests doing this. Or if it is prohibited for warranty reasons.
~Robert
BP combustion residue from the pan & vent flash can gradually work down in between the edge of the pan and the breech;
Also, unburned powder can begin to accumulate down in there if there's not a tight pan to breech seal, with disasterous results should it ever ignite;
And no,locksare normally a removed part andremoval is not tied towarranty.
09-18-2005 | 06:43 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
RE: Possible lock issue
Also, unburned powder can begin to accumulate down in there if there's not a tight pan to breech seal, with disasterous results should it ever ignite;
And no,locksare normally a removed part andremoval is not tied towarranty.
And no,locksare normally a removed part andremoval is not tied towarranty.
I'll have to check on this-I am currently at work (and working hard as you can see!)
Thanks,
~Robert
09-18-2005 | 06:48 PM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 0
RE: Possible lock issue
Are you sure the double triggers are set properly? Seems to me I did a trigger adjustment on my Shenandoah one time that affected the lock-catch at full-cock & half-cock. Tinker around with that screw adjustment at the trigger guard first.... 1/4 turn at-a-time adjustmentsboth ways & see what develops.Just keep track of your turns & which way you're turning - in case you want to return to the original setting.
09-18-2005 | 07:10 PM
#9
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
RE: Possible lock issue
Triple Se7en: I've never messed with the trigger adjustment. However, I'll take a look at that also.
I am not a gunsmith by any means. The lock removal/cleaning, I am hoping this can be performed by a lay person? (I better take some pics-thank God for digital cameras!)
~Robert
I am not a gunsmith by any means. The lock removal/cleaning, I am hoping this can be performed by a lay person? (I better take some pics-thank God for digital cameras!)
~Robert
09-18-2005 | 07:27 PM
#10
Dominant Buck
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,193
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
RE: Possible lock issue
I pull the lock and have always found fowling behind the lock plate. My Thompson Center Hawkins is much worse then my Lyman Trade Rifle but I still pull them and get that all wiped off and clean. I then oil it all up and put the thing back together.