Triple Se7en,
I did remove the oil before loading and shooting. I still use the same method. I use the alcohol pads, I use 2 on both sides. I them dry patch and fire 3 caps. Then I swab again with a slightly moist spit patch and another dry patch. I swab after I pop the caps just in case I dislodge somethingwhen I pop the caps. The alcohol will remove the surface oil but will not get the oil that keeps seeping from the pores of the barrell.
Rob

I've gotm a few questions. QUESTION 1) I also heard the "season your barrel thing" My barrel is stainless, so do I need any of the bore butter type prducts? the guy who told me about this has been M.L. for decades, BUT....he got his first inline just last year, he used a sidelock. is his advice outdated?I was going to just put some dry lube (moly or graphite) on the trigger mechanism and keep the barrel CLEAN. QUESTION 2) the first 3 shots out of my new savage grouped 1 1/2" at 100yds. W/ 250gr power belts and 120gr of ffg pioneer. W/ open sites(all that nev allows for hunting) I thought that that was pretty fair, I was told to try loads w/ less powder...Does anyone know why? Isnt that good accuracy w/ open sites?

I've also experienced real problems with this stuff-I once tried to use it to keep a bore from rusting after it was cleaned, and got a load of rust. Fortunately, I was watching the rifle after cleaning, and caught the rust before it caused pitting, but it took a hour with J-B paste to get the bore slicked up again. I never use oil to preserve a bore anymore, just Birchwood-Casey Sheath. I saturate a patch with this stuff and swab the bore, then wipe all external ferrous components with the patch after swabbing the bore. This stuff penetrates the pores of the metal, then dries, leaving a dry, protective coating on/in the steel. It absolutely prevents rust (used to use it on blued guns in coastal Alaska), but DOES NOT HAVE TO BE SWABBED OUT OF THE GUN BEFORE YOU CAN LOAD UP AND START SHOOTING NEXT TIME!! SHEATHdoes NOT affect black powder, so you will never have misfires attributable to oil in the breech!! Nor does it affect the point of impact in my guns anyway, so a fouling shot is not needed either.Good stuff.

I read an article by Ross Seyfried in Rifle Magazine several years ago about this "seasoning" idea. I tried it (should have known better, since I have been shooting BP rifles since 1954, and knew methods of cleaning, etc., which worked O.K.), and the result was the rusted bore I mentioned above. Well, "seasoning" did not work worth a damn!! My opinion is that "seasoning" is for cast-iron cookware, not rifle barrels! Additionally, any barrel used with BP or BP substitutes must be totally cleaned of any and all powder and bullet residue after shooting, leaving nothing in the bore at all that could cause rust! Forget "seasoning"!!

A stainless barrel will resist rust and corrosion a lot better than other steels or iron, BUT STAINLESS CAN CORRODE from BP fouling if it is not cleaned well. IT JUST TAKES LONGER. So, with a stainless barrel, you can wait a day or two longer before cleaning it, BUT YOU STILL NEED TO CLEAN IT of all powderresidue before any long-term storage!

I clean ALL my BP barrels by pouring 2 quarts of boiling water through the bore, followed immediately by swabbing with four or five clean dry patches. Then, when the bore is cooler, I swab it with a patch saturated with Birchwood-Casey Sheath. This treatment absolutely prevents any bore rust. And, you don't have to swab the preservative out of the bore before you can load & shoot again-the Sheathdries up, leaving a dry protective coating in the bore.

=================================

So all this time, I've been removing the B-C Sheath from my bore when I first arrive at the range & you've found that to be unnecessary? You say this stuff's base is not oil?

Do you realize what you've just done Elde?
You havejust given me another good excuse to tell the wife that I need to get backto the range a few more times to test my first shot placements.... lol

=================================

There's something amyss here. Maybe industrial oils -- maybe jag instead of a bore brush used then -- maybe weak-old alky -- maybe that "coal" wasn't old oil-buildup. Something ain't right with your story.

Make sure you make no mistakes using Bore Butter. It may ruin your bore if you do.

I've used Birchwood Casey Sheath ever since Triple Se7en turned me on to the stuff. An excellent product, no arguements there. I also was one that always removed it with an alcohol patch before shooting.. Real interesting information there eldeguello.

You can maybe, maybe, maybe this to death until we are all dead. You admitted it yourself it works if you don't make any mistakes. Just make sure its clean, completely dry and completely coated and there will be no problem. Natral lube is not for lazy people that want to clean up quick and throw the rifle in the closet till next year. It makes for all day shoots and great accuracy. I AM willing to spend some time with my rifle.
If the piece is not properly cleaned and not properly dried, then when you coat the bore you are basically trapping corrosive fouling and moisture between th lube and the walls of the barrel. This WILL cause lots of rust. Just get it clean, dry and lubed properly and it's great stuff.

We "lazy folks"won't be shooting "straight/accurately" all day using bore butter with sabots.... no sirree!We understand the conical/roundball fetish with it & don't get cocky with non-butter users. I spend a couple of hours cleaning my rifle after a shoot of 10 shots or 100-- all using gun oils afterwards too.

Good gun oils work. Proof is in the lack of bore-buttered centerfires, rimfires, shotguns, MLs& pistolas out there.
But have-at-it! Take all day spreading it -- then removing it -- then spreading it -- then removing it.

Been there & done that! Get more accuracy out of my roundball guns with a dry bore & don't lay on a pillow at night questioningmyself on whether I forgot to do sumthin' with my ML an hour ago.Besides....98% of us lazy folks here don't shoot all day anyhow.

Best regards thou.... we still respect ya despite being lazy.

First of all Triple Se7en, I was not directly calling you lazy. I know a lot of guys locally that want to put a couple of solvent patches down the bore and then put on some bore butter or rem oil or someother lube. Well they don't understand that the rifle is not clean and that they are just trapping the fouling and moisture under the lube. Then these guys will complain about the bore butter not working because they get rust. When you try to "clean" this way it doesn't matter what you use for lube you will get rust. I was not critising you for not using bore butter, Use what works for you. I have found a way of doing things that works for my with the bore butter, I will continue to use it. As for shooting all day, this is one of my hobbies I am always tring to become a better shot. When I did shoot an inline and used sabots, bore butter was a no no.I feel that this could cause the plastic to skip over the rifling instead of engaging. Also I never use bore buter in anything other that muzzle loaders. All of the other types of firearms with modern powders do not corrode as easily. You do your thing I'll do mine.
Rob