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Cutting A Barrel Shorter

Old 08-21-2012, 11:20 AM
  #1  
Boone & Crockett
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Default Cutting A Barrel Shorter

There's no need to pay a gunsmith to shorten a barrel. It's a simple job you can do at home with hand tools.

Here's how I went about it.

The first step was to mark the barrel for the cut. I used a copper tubing cutter to do that. These things are about $8 from Ace Hardware.



It made a nice little shallow groove around the barrel perfectly square to the bore.



Then I used a fine cut six-inch three corner file to carefully deepen the grove., laying the barrel across my lap and rotating it slowly as I filed.



I wanted a groove deep enough to serve as a starting guide for a hack saw blade.



Then I wrapped the barrel with tape to protect it from any slips when I went at it with the hack saw blade.



With the barrel across my lap once again, I began the cut using a new 32 tooth per inch fine cut hack saw blade held in my hand. I could probably have mounted the blade in a handle, but figured I would have more control holding the blade. I started off with very light cuts, rotating the barrel as I went.



Here’s what it looked like after about ten minutes of careful work.



It was going slowly, but nice and even. I could probably have mounted the blade in a handle at this point and proceeded at a faster and easier rate. But I was in no hurry and stuck with the handheld blade. It took longer to get all the way through but I ended up with a nice even cut.



Then I began dressing the face of the muzzle with light strokes of the fine three corner file, making sure to keep the file flat and rotating the barrel as I progressed.



It didn’t take too long to remove all of the lines and scratches left by the saw blade.



I then used 240 grit emery paper backed by a flat piece of aluminum to continue dressing the muzzle flat and smooth, keeping it flat against the muzzle and using a circular motion. I followed the 240 grit paper with a final polish of 400 grit paper.



Once it was flat and smooth I used the 240 grit, then the 400 grit the to slightly chamfer the outside edge, removing the sharp corner.



Then used one-inch squares of 240 grit and 400 grit paper and my thumb to slightly chamfer the inside of the muzzle



The final product was quite satisfactory. I don’t know how a smith could have done any better.



As you can see, I managed to keep everything flat and square.




By the way, I did all of the work sitting on a chair in my man cave.

Last edited by Semisane; 08-11-2018 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:13 AM
  #2  
Fork Horn
 
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That's a great looking job. How does it shoot now? Did you do this so you could shoot conicals?
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Old 08-27-2012, 11:29 AM
  #3  
Nontypical Buck
 
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My rifle shoots good after removing the QLA. I used the tubing cutter as described by Semisane to mark the barrel. This evidently works to keep the cut square; my rifle probably wouldn't shoot good if it didn't.







The pictured target was shot at 47 yard before the QLA was removed. The numbered holes were made by a 500g Conical cast by Flounder They scared me so much i shot 3 more times using the 300g Deep Curl, just to see if something wasn't haywire. Those holes are dyed green.





After seeing how them conical shot in the rifle, i cut the QLA off .





Then i tried shooting them 500g conical again using the rifle now without the QLA.





The holes near center were shot at 100 yard. The holes dyed green were shot at 48 yard.





Then just to see if the rifle could still shoot the 300g Deep Curl in a sabot, i shot them at 200 yard a week or two ago. The following target is the result.






Semisane' technique works.
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Old 08-11-2018, 03:50 PM
  #4  
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Bump Forward: Deleted Photobucket pictures are replaced with photos in Flickr.
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