What do you like? Dark wood or light wood? Or something in the middle? Go to
www.recurves.com (ChekMate bows) and
www.tradstore.com/woodshed/ and look at the woods that are available. Naturally both sites have a lot of the same woods, but each has something the other doesn't. ChekMate has some really eyepopping veneers that they can put over limb corewoods.
Some of my favorite riser woods are Bolivian Rosewood, bocote, cocobolo, tulipwood, zebrawood, kingwood, wenge and ziricote. I like bloodwood, purpleheart, osage and padauk accent woods for color contrast. Face cut red elm, yew, and osage make nice looking limbs under clear glass. Osage starts out a bright yellow and mellows with exposure to the sun to a deep honey color. Or you can have veneers put over whatever limb core woods you choose, ChekMate has some stuff called waterfall bubinga that I think is to die for. Or you can go with black or brown glass over just about any kind of core wood. They say that colored glass gives slightly better performance than clear glass, but I'm not so sure.
Best thing to do is ask the bowyer what limb core woods he'd recommend to give the best performance for his design at your draw length.
Remember that the heavier riser woods will make for a bow that gives a bit less handshock and vibration and give you a tad better stability. It doesn't make as huge a difference with longbows as it does with recurves, but when you compare two identical longbows with different weight riser woods you can tell a difference. I had a Saxon Mongoose with a shedua riser and a friend had the exact same bow, exact same draw weight, exact same limb cores but with a leadwood riser. It was much heavier and it held steadier on target and had noticeably less handshock than mine did.
Sometimes you can get a really great, beautiful bow if you just give the bowyer a general idea of what you like and then turn him loose to exert his own creativity on actual wood selections.