Paul gave me a shout to look at this thread and see if I could help you out. I think the bow you have is just fine, unless you just want to spend $300. It's not as fancy as new bows, but it is still plenty capable of doing the same job it did when it was new, which is sending an arrow downrange with enough oomph to kill a deer.

Going to a bow with a cutout riser WILL NOT solve your problem with the rest. A prong style rest like that is very hard -next to impossible- to use with a fingers release. They are made for using a mechanical release, where the arrow needs to be cushioned in the vertical plane. A fingers released arrow needs to be cushioned in the horizontal plane, due to the flexing Paul mentioned. The very fact you can hold a 5" group at 20 yards using that rest is impressive.[:-]

Switch to an NAP Centerest flipper. They generally run about $15 or less. They're easy to install and about as simple as you can get. The arrow rests on a little wire which is pushed out of the way as the fletching passes, so rest contact is minimal. The picture shows it looking down from the top.

On non-cutout riser bows, arrows need to be long enough that they stick out beyond the front of the riser at least a half inch when you've got the bow drawn fully into the stops. That will keep the broadhead well away from the riser. Reason for that is simple. Some guys get excited when a deer is in front of them and overdraw the bow. The broadhead hits the riser and pulls the nock off the string. The arrow falls, clattering down the side of the tree. Cutting them where the broadheads can't contact the bow eliminates that problem. If your current arrows are already that long, then you're in business. If you need longer arrows to get there, you might need to look at going to a different size. Install the nocks so that the cock fletch - the odd colored one - is sticking straight out to the side. That's how they need to be set up for a fingers rest like the flipper.

Check out the tuning section at Easton's website. Lots of good info there, but I recommend forgoing the paper tuning stuff. I've never considered it applicable for fingers shooters. www.eastonarchery.com

By the way, don't get too upset at the guys at your pro shop for sending you down the primrose path. Probably not a single one of them have ever shot a bow with their God given fingers, and probably have never shot a bow without cutout sight window. Ignorance is their fault, for sure, but remember. They're working in a business where a 5 year old bow is practically an antique and you've got one that's probably closing in on 20 years old. it's beyond their realm of experience. And, naturally, they're main job is to try and get you to buy a new bow.

Might be a good idea to get one within the next couple of years, but the one you've got will serve until you're ready for a new one.