Hey earlybird, welcome, it's good to see you here.

First things first, have you ever shot a bow before? Either way, I'd suggest you call and cancel your order on the PSE @55#. There are too many things that go into the length and weight of a bow for each individual and in my opinion it's too much bow for a newcomer to start with. As a matter of fact, I'd even say this to an experienced compound shooter, but I'd recommend going with a bow that is 35-40# at your true draw length which needs to be measured. Go used and cheap as possible on a good used recurve. The reason I say this is that in order to shoot traditional equipment, you need to develope good and consistent shooting techniques like how you stand while shooting, how you hold the bow, how you grip and release the string, your anchor and so on. These things must be mastered before you can start to become consistently accurate with the bow and starting with too much weight can and will cause bad habits that will make accuracy near impossible and then you aren't having fun anymore and the passion goes away and you either drop out of archery all together or never become any good at it. I recommend you go to an archery shop, preferably a trad shop, and have your draw measured. If they have some good used recurves that aren't real expensive, buy one. Otherwise go to ebay or many of the online classifieds and find a bow that is lite in weight so you can learn properly.

Once you have your bow, you'll also need an arm guard. Nothing like a good string slap or two on the arm to get your attention. Finger protection in the form of a glove or tab. Bow stringer unless you want to break the bow or twist a limb. A quiver is whatever will hold your arrows. I like a back quiver for practice, some like side quivers on the belt and others like the Lakota (plains indian style)quiver. Once you have your draw length measured and the bow you can figure what the approx. #dage is at your draw or you can have it weighed at your draw. Then you can start thinking about an arrow. I know all this sounds complicated, but it's actually pretty easy compared to what someone has to go through with a compound.

If you have a range nearby, check it out and check out the club that operates the range. If there are any traditional shooters there, ask for help. Most will gladly offer their experience and help you start off in the right direction.

Oh, I'd recommend canceling your bow order anyway, even if you were an experienced archer. Mainly because unless the people that make the bow (it's imported) for PSE have changed the limb design, it's just plain dangerous. I witnessed one that was a few months old, blow up at a 3D shoot. On the other hand, there are those who stand behind them, so I guess like anything else, it's who you talk to.

Any of the arrow materials will do. Taper tools are a breeze if you get a good one. Broadheads are for experienced shooters. Learn to shoot first, you'll thank youself in the longrun. But, to somewhat answer your question, the one that shoots most accurately for you. That's why I say to learn to shoot first. Any of the 3D targets are good, but I prefer the ones that are cheap to buy. That way it don't matter if you shoot them up. Once you have the basics of shooting down and are getting pretty consistently accurate on the ground, practice just like your going to be hunting. If in a tree to hunt, get in a tree to practice. As your experience with the bow increases you will learn what your self imposed shooting range will be while hunting and you should stick to it. Letting deer run around looking like porcupines because of all the arrows sticking in them, is not a good thing. Sorry about the length here. It's real difficult to actually put it all down so I know there will be others coming along with similar or completely different thoughts on this and remember, it is a load of fun if you don't take it too seriously.