ORIGINAL: c903
I don't know anything about your experience with a recurve, so I will ask:
-Does your bow have a "crowned" shelf (high center) and is the riser "center shot?"
-What brand, model, length, and age?
-Are you using Dacron or Fast-Flight string?
-Is your string and "endless" or "flemish?"
-What is your brace height?
-What do you have on your string other than a nock-set?
-Have you checked your "string nock" for a starting point of 1/8" to 1/4" above 90 degrees (horizontal from rest?)
Although your diagnosis of a nock-high flight is USUALLY contributed to a low nock height causing too much feather-to-shelf contact, it best that all accessories and settings be correct for your setup and form before trying to chase down just one cause.
If your shelf is "flat," you may need to get the arrow up from the shelf to reduce the feather contact which could be kicking your arrow's nock up.
BTW, are you getting a fairly loud and harsh release of the string, using a caliper release? I suppose too, that the release is causing you to have a shorter draw-length?
I don't know a lot about recurves. I've shot this bow since I was a kid mostly at fish.Well the bow is aprox 30 years old? Ben pearson cougar ser. #57330-125 x45 @ 28" AMO 62" and the shelf is flat. I have one tarantula silencers trimmed down to about 2"in dia. 10" from string loop. Release is louder than fingers as is to be expected. I shoot good groups with this set up I just want to correct the arrow flight. I'm shooting Easton carbon Epic 400s'. I had a plastic coated wire flipper rest on it but it was tearing up my bottom feather so i went to shooting off of the shelf with some rabbit fur glued on there. I have a rubber flipper style rest I'm going to try. I have SIX NEW PORT ORFORD CEDAR ARROWS. 31" LONG. 55-60 SPINE, 11/32". A little too stiff I know but I'm drawing about 30"