I suggest not using any cyanoacrylate adhesive. Cyanoacrylate adhesives become brittle and do not hold well on any surface that will flex.

I have tried several types and keep coming back to Bohning Flex-Tite cement. I recently tried "Bohning's Platinum" on aluminum shafts and will never use it again. The Platinum appears to be a cyanoacrylate adhesive and was very "runny." I had a mess on my hands.

After my fletch glue is dry, I always clean the glue out of "valleys" between the fletching. The "Fletch"Tite" was always easy to remove. The "Platinum" was as hard as rock and could not be scraped without scraping the shaft too much. In addition, the hardness tells me that the rigidity of the dried glue will be too brittle not suitable for a flexing shaft. I do not look forward having to replace a fletch and having to scrape the old (Platinum) glue off the shaft.

As for "Fletch-Tite;" last year I removed the fletching from some shafts that I had since the early 70's. The fletch was still in very good shape and the "Fletch-Tite" glue was still intact.

I have two Bitz systems set up. For a starting system, I recommend the following materials.

1 Quality fletching jug.
1 Straight clamp
1 Helical clamp
Fletch glue of preference
Small quanity of "gel" cyanoacrylate adhesive (Super-Glue) in small tubes
X-Acto type knives and extra blades
1 Box opener and extra blades
000 and 0000 steel wool
Very fine emery cloth or paper
1 Can of acetone
Cotton balls
Lint-free rags
A shaft stand to stand finished shafts. (A large block of hole-punched Styrofoam works very well.)
1 small coffee can

If you use a "uni-nock," have extra nocks that you will only use to fletch with and will replace with the nocks you will be using after the glue dries. Just the fumes of certain fletch adhesives can weaken a plastic nock. If any glue makes contact with a nock, replace the nock. You could have a nock disintegrate when you fire the shaft and your bow could experience a "dry fire."

If your shaft has "glue on" nocks, protect the nocks from glue fumes and contact with glue.

After a shaft is fletched, it is best to stand the shaft with the nock down so that the fumes from the glue rise (evaporate) away from the nock as the glue dries.