Hey buck back to your origanal question , I would say getting the proper arrow for your aplication is #1 .
1 Spine is critical , you dont want a underspined arrow to shoot broadheads , slightly overspined is a much better situation , and will tune much easyer than a underspined arrow .
2 Your fixed heads must be on straight .
3 Addiquate fletching , Cant belive someone would recomend 3" anything for fletching a fixed broadhead equiped arrow , some get by with 4" , I say go with 5" if you are shooting a fixed head , you must counteract the stearing effects of a fixed head in the front of your arrow with enough stearing in the back or your arrow will be unstable .
4 Quality arrows , You get what you pay for "sometimes" , Buy the best you can afford , but dont think inexpensive alluminums wont fly as they can outpreform some of the expensive pure carbons out there .
5 Good nocks , First your nocks must fit right , too tight and you are in for trouble , or headaches trying to get them to fly straight . One good saying is "Change your nocks , and change them often" . Especialy for an archery like myself who shoots off of the string with no cusion . They wear out , sometimes quickly .

Wow this has been all about arrows , and for good reason , get a bent one or a 2312 mixed with your 2314s and it aint flying with the rest of your arrows . Get a set or arrows that are matched to your bow and as close to identical as posable and you will have less headaches .
As far as tuneing the bow eastons tuneing chart sould be looked at , especialy group tuneing , and broadhead tuneing . Group tuneing would be #1 for me though as I believe that will give the best "straightest " arrow flight , and the broadhead tuneing section can prove to be imposable with some setups , as side to side toqure prevents feild tips from impacting with fixed heads on those setups with bad cabelrod toqure or for a person who toqures the bow bad with their grip .