There are arrow charts for trad shooters. Easton's chart seems to run on the high side of spine--bowjackson.com has a pretty good chart, I think. Basically you want to get the right spine arrow for your bow/draw length/point weight. You can tune the bow to the arrow some, by adjusting the strike plate and nock point.

I suggest staying with an arrow/point combination that gives you 8 grains or more of arrow weight per lb of draw weight. For instance, if you are pulling 50#, use a finished arrow that weighs 400 grains or more.

A smooth drawing bow will gain 2-3 pounds for every inch you pull it back. Every bow has a point where it starts to gain more--it might be 28", it might be 34", depending on the bow. When it gets to the point that it goes from gaining 2-3# per inch to 4-5# per inch or more, that is when it starts to stack. If the bow starts to stack before you reach your anchor point, this makes it uncomfortable and more difficult to consistently come to your anchor.

Gap shooting is basically using the point of your arrow as a sight pin. Since you can only have one "pin" using this method, when you are close you will have to hold under your intended target. The amount you have to hold under at a given distance is the gap. This method still requires a consistent anchor and release, but makes it easier to get on target starting out. You can learn to shoot "instinctive" without conciously gap shooting (I say conciously, because most people gap whether they realize it or not). Learning to gap first will get you on target faster, and make learing to shoot "instinctive" easier.

Chad