Bard:

A lot can and will be said regarding your possible transition to a non-wheel bow. In the meantime, I will suggest three initial considerations and let the input begin.

1. Do not let the term "traditional" mislead you. You do not have to wear a loincloth, shoot bare bow, and aim instinctively or use the "gap" method. I am a good instinctive shooter, but my new custom bow will have (recurve) sights, an adjustable rest, stabilizer, quiver mount, etc. I call it "Tradmod."
2. As a first-timer, I would not go the "longbow" route.
3. I strongly suggest you consider giving up a bit of energy and start with a 62" to 66" bow, dependent upon your draw-length. I prefer a 64" to 66" bow. Longer recurves are normally easier to shoot. A beginner should not have to cope with a bow that is hard to pull and has a tendency to stack, while trying to learn all the other relevant aspects of tuning and shooting a stick bow.

One of the most common errors a person makes when going the non-wheel bow route for the first time, is they over-bow (draw-weight) and they start with a bow that is too short.

As for loss of performance with longer recurves, it depends on the brand/type of bow. The custom bow I had made is a 50#@30" 66" TakeDown recurve. The bow has high performance limbs and is putting some good speed on the arrows. I shoot 3-fingers under and had the limbs tillered for the 3 under method. However, I have shot standard recurves for years using the 3 under with no obvious problems.

My suggestions are largely based on the price range you need to stay within.