I agree that "Tiller Tuning" your bow will make it aim much, much better, and just might take care of all your troubles. Here's the process:
"Tiller Tuning Tiller Tuning Your Compound Bow

Tiller tuning your bow is the process by which you get your wheels to turn at
optimum performance. You do this by shooting groups of arrows at several targets
until your arrows shoot the best group.

Step #1) Measure tuning
Using an arrow, place the point of the arrow on the inside of the bow at a point
where the riser and limb meet for the top limb. Holding the arrow, use your
thumb to measure the distance to the string. Holding that position on the arrow
with your thumb, measure the bottom limb/riser intersection to the string. If
the string touches your thumb in exactly the same spot, your wheels are in-time
with each other; hint, use the tip of your thumb. If your thumb does not touch
the string in exactly the same spot, then turn the limb bolt in or out as
needed. Some people choose to stop here; they assume that the bow is tuned and
it will shoot tight groups. If you want tighter groups, continue on to step #2
.
Step #2) Draw your crosshairs
On the bolt that holds your limbs to the riser, draw a cross over the bolt and
onto the limb. Use a straight edge or ruler; it is important that these lines
measure out a perfect cross. This cross can be thought of as a cross hair or a
guide. Each time you begin to shoot at a target, you will turn the limb either
in or out based on the position of the cross hair. In your mind (or on your bow,
which ever you prefer) label the end points of the cross hairs 1/4, 1/2, 3/4,
and 1. These numbers represent turns on the limb; example, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn,
etc.

Step #3) Select a distance that you are confident with shooting tight groups
Note: On the target displayed to the left you see nine targets; four on top,
one in the middle, and four on the bottom. The four on top are for your top
limb, the four on the bottom are for your bottom limb, and the one in the middle
is for recentering. Start with center target.
Note: Use either 3 or 4 arrows - any more and you will break knocks, feathers,
and possibly robin hood an arrow.
Shoot a group at the center target. Retrieve your arrows and note the group. If
its dead center, that's great! However, we're not looking for accuracy, we're
looking for tight groups.
Note: Take breaks from shooting often, I recommend after each group shot. If
your arms are tired from shooting you'll waste your time.

Step #4) On your top limb, turn the limb bolt in (not out) to the 1/4 position.
Shoot a group. Retrieve your arrows and note the group.

Step #5) On your top limb, turn the limb bolt in (not out) to the 1/2 position.
Shoot a group. Retrieve your arrows and note the group.

Step #6) Continue this process for positions 3/4 and 1.

Step #7) Return the top limb to its original position.
Shoot a group at the center target and note the position. It should be at the
same place it was.

Step #8) Repeat the top limb process (steps #4 thru 7) for the bottom limb on
the four bottom targets.
Don't forget to note each group shot and take breaks often.

Step #9) Compare your Targets
After you have returned the bottom limb to its original position and shot the
center target a third time (it should have shot in the same position as the
first two - if it didn't, you messed up somewhere), compare your targets. Select
the one that you shot your tightest grouping. Now, set either your top limb or
your bottom limb according to that grouping position.
Congrats, your wheels are in tune with each other. Now, sight your bow in.
Remember, timing and tuning are two different beasts. A bow can be timed and not
tuned.
You can reach the author via email at [email protected]"
Hope this helps you aim better. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown