My preference is to use normal hunting fletching for squirrels. Flu-flu's are helpful for preventing arrow loss on arial shots, but I've had many squirrles dodge their noisy flight. I usually carry a mix of broadheads and blunts in my squirrel quiver. Broadhead hits ensure a more likely kill than blunt blows, so I try to use them when I put a stalk on squirrles rifling through leaves on the ground. Old or cheap broadheads (such as MA-3's) are ideal for squirrels. So are field points "if" a steel washer or Adder point is placed behind them. Field points alone tend to pass through and often don't cause enough immediate trauma to anchor them. The obvious drawback to broadheads is that they stick in trees, and so this is where the blunts are handy.
I prefer solid steel blunts, Ace Hex blunts, or brass cartridge casings over Judo points and rubber blunts. Judos tend to stick in trees, and I've lost too many squirrels to rubber blunts (even from fast compound bows) to consider them worthy. There are no guarantees of a kill with metal blunts, but the certaintly level increases when a squirrel gets sandwiched between a tree and a speeding blunt, versus getting hit and knocked off the side of a tree.
For the brass cartridge blunts, I prefer to use 30-30 brass. When the neck is cut off with a Dremel tool, the case weighs 120 grns. About 5 grains of epoxy are used to secure them on the shaft, so their weight matches that of normal field points. You can make them even more effective by cutting a 3/8" slot longitudinally in them and gluing in a short peice of hacksaw blade. What you end up with is a blunt that also opens a wound channel...perhaps the perfect squirrel head.
