ORIGINAL: Droptines
What value does that one brass nock have.
I think they cost about 25 cents at the shop[&:]
The one just above the end of the cam.You gain how much speed with it ??,,or lose with out it ?
Really depends on the individual bow and whats on the string. I've seen some bows (usually those witha ton of string oscillation) gain or lose several FPS with or without them. Generally however it's only a couple of FPS and takes alot of experimentation with the chrono to find the sweet spot.
I have 300 shots on my new LX,so I'm starting to tweek the string and cables.I am having a alittle bit of a problem getting the poundage out of it.So far, I have had to put MANY twists in both,,string and cables,just to get in the ball park.I think I'm almost done for now.I need 1 more twist in the string to bring the cam in.I should end up with 70 to 71 lbs.of draw weight.PERFECT
First of all, do you know how accurate your scale is? Second. Have you taken off the string and cables and measured them?
JEFF,another question; on cam rotation,,how close is close enough ?.I'm an 1/8" over rotateing right now.OK place to be,or should I try to get even closer ??
Generally with a single it's better to be a little over-rotated than under. However the bow will always be at it's most efficient point when the cam is "on" (it will be quieter, and tune easier too). On the HP cam, it's not quite as critical because a hard draw stop is used. On non-draw stop singles, the feel of the valley and wall can be drastically affected when the cam is out of time...which makes the bow much less forgiving if you creep or overdraw into the wall.